This is just a quick question : I am changing the whole brake system on the car .. from a to Z except for the lines. I got everything off the back wxcept the rotor seems to be kinda jammed there ... is there a way to take it off ?? should I just band on it with a hammer ?? I didn't want to force it without knowing !

Thanks alot !
Eric.

 

There should be 1 or 2 little theaded holes in the rotor face.Near where the little phillips retaining bolts are that hold the rotor to the axle.These threaded holes are for pulling the rotor off the axle flange. Just screw a bolt into them and tighten down in small increments while lightly tapping on the rotor face with a hammer.Itll pop free,just dont snap the bolts off in the hole.

 

i got a rear from a gsl im trying to get ready to swap into my gs and before i do so i need new rotors calipers and pads but one rotor will not come off because the 2 tiny philips screws that sercure the rotor onto the axle are ON there and wont break loose nomatter how much wd or force i use and now one is striped so should i just cut the heads off in order to get the rotor off then try to use some vice grips to clanp onto it and work on it

 

have you tried usings something like the easy outs? that might work ...

 

what i did in that case was grab the head of the screw with a vice grip and it comes right off. if not try some pb blaster and let it sit for a while with it on. worked much better than wd-40 for me. once the screws are off tap softly with a hammer.

 

I'll try a couple of these tomorow and post replies to tell ya how it's moving along !

 

If you have stripped the heads of the screws, just drill them out. They don't have to be reinstalled. They do make mounting the wheels easier, but that is about all.

 

If the phillips part of the screw is still there but it just wont budge,get a manual impact.Everyone should have one,especially if you own a motorcycle.They arent expensive and they work great.Its just a little cylinder about 6" long and 1.5" diameter.You put the screwdriver bit or socket in one end and hit the other end with a hammer.Itll break the corrosion bond of smaller fasteners almost everytime,usually without too much if any damage to the screw/bolt.

 

Where would be a good place to purchase this item? Does brand matter? Is "manual impact" what the tool is actually called? Very interested as this may help out alot of different situations. I know I havent "needed" tools until I bought them and now I use these "specialty" tools all the time!

 

Gah...

For the front caliper brackets I bought a 14mm stub wrench specifically for the job on mine... and now that we're working on Eric's, I can't find the damn thing!

Thankfully, we're replacing the rear rotors, so we don't have to be "soft" when we smack it with the hammer

Jon

 

Another name this tool is often refered to as, is "Impact Driver". These should be available at most auto parts stores and hardware stores with a decent tool selection. Places like harbor freight will certainly have them, along with almost any place that handles a great deal of other specialty tools.
I remember needing one to get those same type of screws out of the rear drums on the '80 courier truck I bought some 20+ years back. Mazda had a habit of getting those rather snug at the factory.........
If you manage to get them out without destroying them, coat them with anti-seize prior to reinstalling them.

 

Yea,Impact driver,manual impact,hammer impact....
Brand isnt much an issue,Ive got a cheap chrome Harbor Freight one thats lasted years.The bits can break sometimes,but the tool itself is about as stout a design as you can get.Plus you wont use it that often,but when it works its usually solving a problem thats a real pain in the ***,thus its well worth the purchase!

 

Here's what you need:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...=CRAFT#tablink

 

Id make a sexual joke,but were all too mature for that kinda stuff.....right!!..........................nevermi nd;-)