rear disk brakes
#1
TT 1st gen ? We'll see !
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rear disk brakes
Ok guys ... I know I'm gettin one everybody's nerves with brakes loll BUT NE WAYS ...
On the rear brakes , to compress the calipers, what the heck do you have to do ?? rotate clockwise while pushing it ?? or WHAT WHAT WHAT ?!?!?!?! :p lol and what's that rubery thing on the back ??
thx !
On the rear brakes , to compress the calipers, what the heck do you have to do ?? rotate clockwise while pushing it ?? or WHAT WHAT WHAT ?!?!?!?! :p lol and what's that rubery thing on the back ??
thx !
#2
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
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take a C-clamp put one end on the piston and the other end behind the piston and screw it in using the c clamp.....it's pretty simple.....pm me if u have more questions
#4
My wife bought me 2 RX-7s
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Or break down and spead $10 bucks to buy the proper tool at any auto parts store like AutoZone, NAPA, PartSource, etc.
Geez guys, we should at least try and do things right before we resort to breaking out the hammer.
Geez guys, we should at least try and do things right before we resort to breaking out the hammer.
#7
By turning the piston clockwise it will slowly push the piston back into the caliper. It may require more force to turn as the piston is likely quite old. The brake piston tool is the best as you can attach a ratchet and turn it with more force but pliers and other tools do work. Careful not to bust open the old rubber piston seal.
If you have the same 1G calipers as I do (and I think you probably do) you have a small notch (circular dimple) on one of the 2 cutouts. Make sure this lines up with the notch on your brake pads when you fit the caliper back over...if you can't see it mark where it is with some white chalk.
F-
If you have the same 1G calipers as I do (and I think you probably do) you have a small notch (circular dimple) on one of the 2 cutouts. Make sure this lines up with the notch on your brake pads when you fit the caliper back over...if you can't see it mark where it is with some white chalk.
F-
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#8
TT 1st gen ? We'll see !
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Now you see, that's an EXCELLENT tip ! lol .. I wouldn't have lined them up !! I'll probably gfo to canadian tire to get the tool .. for 15-20$ seems alot easyier !
#10
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
USE THE RIGHT TOOL! You are not saving yourself any time by not going out and buying (or renting, or borrowing) the correct tool for this job. The rear brake calipers must be turned while they are compressed, and while it may seem like a good idea to use 2 screwdrivers of the proper size, this will almost surely result in a slip that will then puncture or tear the rubber dust boot that protects the O-rings around the piston itself - then you'll need to rebuild the caliper.
Having the right tools prevents this unnecessary waste of time and money, not to mention aggravation at having to rebuild an entire caliper, as calipers should be rebuilt in pairs (at the least). Putting new parts in the broken caliper with then make the opposite caliper the weakest link, resulting in failure of the other side very soon.
The proper tool is a metallic cube that has varied distances of 'spanner' tips that fit into the recesses in the caliper. Opposite the tips (on all sides) is a 1/2" socket drive opening for attachment to any 1/2" drive wrench. This allows you to push in on the wrench if you hold it by the head, while simultaneously turning the wrench clockwise to compress the piston.
Rear brakes have this provision as they do not perform the bulk of the braking, and as such, do not need to move as much as the front brakes (for total travel over their life). The rear brakes, therefore, are allowed to remain in very close contact with the rear rotors so that when you press on the brake pedal, they immediately come into contact with the rotor, allowing pressure to gradually ease onto all 4 corners of the car under braking. This happens as soon as you press your foot on the brake pedal. HTH,
Having the right tools prevents this unnecessary waste of time and money, not to mention aggravation at having to rebuild an entire caliper, as calipers should be rebuilt in pairs (at the least). Putting new parts in the broken caliper with then make the opposite caliper the weakest link, resulting in failure of the other side very soon.
The proper tool is a metallic cube that has varied distances of 'spanner' tips that fit into the recesses in the caliper. Opposite the tips (on all sides) is a 1/2" socket drive opening for attachment to any 1/2" drive wrench. This allows you to push in on the wrench if you hold it by the head, while simultaneously turning the wrench clockwise to compress the piston.
Rear brakes have this provision as they do not perform the bulk of the braking, and as such, do not need to move as much as the front brakes (for total travel over their life). The rear brakes, therefore, are allowed to remain in very close contact with the rear rotors so that when you press on the brake pedal, they immediately come into contact with the rotor, allowing pressure to gradually ease onto all 4 corners of the car under braking. This happens as soon as you press your foot on the brake pedal. HTH,
#11
TT 1st gen ? We'll see !
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ok !! .. finished them .. took me like 10 minutes ti finish the right wheel, and like 20 to do the left , USING THE TOOL !
the tool works SOOOO great !
Numero Uno !! I'll post up a complete section on all that you gotta do to replace them soon !
See yas !
the tool works SOOOO great !
Numero Uno !! I'll post up a complete section on all that you gotta do to replace them soon !
See yas !
#12
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If you have an old socket about the same size as the piston, in a pinch you can use a grinder to cut away from the outside edge and make your own tool. The one I had for 2 yrs worked fine. I finally bought the cube jobby Good Luck
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