So the other day I was at BNR...well...his gravel in some spots is 800 feet deep. Got stuck..had to be pulled out by a FD! Got the car out and drove up the road a bit..and kept hearing a roaring noise from the wheel. Got home and posted here that my wheel bearing has gone bad. (which is what it sounded like)

Well, yesterday..i decided to pull the brakes apart to make sure there was no chunks of gravel lodged someplace...got them apart...no gravel...thats when **** went real bad real fast.

First I noticed the back pad was down to bare metal. Decided I was gonna put it back together and run up the road to Advanced Auto and get some new ones.
Tried putting the pads back on...the front one went on without a hitch, the other wouldnt go on at all. I looked and realized that the brake piston was pushed foward quite a bit. Bleed the brakes to let off teh pressure and still..no joy...
The brake piston has seized up..in the engaged position. Thats what the horrid noise was! Guess Id rather it be this than the bearing.

Advanced Auto and Autozone both want $120 for their caliper assembly...
My question is...will any other brake calipers fit on here, like from a TII? etc etc?

Thanks for the help!

 

Actually, I believe that you have to turn the adjuster on the cyclinder to get it to retract. You will not be able to just push it back in, even if you relieve the pressure.

There is a knurled adjusting nut on it. You need to pull the slab of metal away from it, then rotate the nut to retract it. Good luck (I hate working on drum brakes!)....

 

Oh, wait a minute! Do you have drums on the back, or discs? If they are discs then please disregard my uninformed post.......

 

Guess I shoulda clarified I have a GSL-SE....So I have rear disc..

 

LOL, me again. I believe you can pick up calipers from Rockauto.com for like 25 bucks...

 

Thanks for the input anyway!

 

I would look again before replacing the calipers. The rear calipers I have are from an 85 SE and you have to turn the piston to retract it back into the caliper. There is a special Mazda tool to turn the calipers, but you can use anything with two prongs. I've even used needle nose pliers before. The fact that the 1 pad wore more than the other could be due to the sliders not moving freely.

 

Hey cop newbie,lol. I responded to you post about noise and asked about the brake issue.
Yes you have to turn the piston back in with a special tool that can be picked up by napa. As far as the Inboard pad being down to metal. This is usually due to a
poor installation of pads. The first thing you do is spray down the brake system with brake cleaner to remove all the old dust and grease.
Either have the rotors machined or sand them with 600 grit sandpaper or use a directional cut with 3m's scocth pads.
Make sure that all sliding points are lubed with synthetic caliper lube or even anti seize compound.
PS, stay out of the gravel until i develop my AWD 1st gen,lol.

 

the problem i found when i needed a RL caliper for my SE was almost no-one sold a caliper with a mounting bracket. my slider pin froze up in the mounting bracket. Even without they were over a ******* 100 dollars because the parking brake assy is attatched to it jacking up the price. make SURE when you call to specify if it has the mounting braket IF you need it.

I managed to find a decent price on one from the local brake warehouse. I am curious if rockauto sells any of those calipers with a mounting bracket, i need the RR? i shall call tommorow.

 

Thanks for the info!


Also, on the lower part of the caliper there is a copper bolt. In the haynes manual it said to remove this....I did..and now I cant get the SOB back in!!! What is it and why does it hate me?