Mrak

Going to be grabbing a set in the near future, great reference thread.

Great work

jonathan_ed3

iTrader: (1)

Looking really good.

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

No there's a bracket included in the kit for the stock motor to mount to. I think it's in one of the first pictures I posted saying something like this is the nice bracket that billy gives you but I can't use it.....bla bla bla

If your keeping your 12A or orignial 13B it's a straight up bolt in deal no modifications that can't be reversed. Although i couldn't think of a reason you would ever revese it.

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

Sorry guys I'm still waiting as I know you are probably wondering if I'm flaking or what. I'll post some pictures of the car so far wiring wise to hold you over for now. Most of it's done now and finalized although there is a bit of stuff unfinished as you will be able to see from the pictures.

Here's the rear area all repainted. I finally decided to paint the car white. The back part is the only part of the car absolutely completed as you can tell the wiring is loomed up and the whole back has been de-tarred and painted




This one you can see the floor is painted all the way up to the front mounting rail for the seats. It's the same on both sides just there's a floor mat on the other side where I was so I didn't ruin the paint already. You can also see the heat hazard sensor in this one and some of the window wiring.




Here's the dash board all ready to go with the new center piece and everything mounted. My wife broke the old center piece somehow and I'm not sure how considering it's lexan. I told her if see breaks this one she's in trouble as a bit of time was spent on it this time.




In this one you can see the "mil" light, the oil temp gauge, the wiper motor switch, and the apexi rev speed meter. Which is just a monitoring device if your wondering what it is. It does nothing but provide visual representation of various sensors and data logs them. This is almost useless since I will be using an Rtek ecu. But my tach stops at 8000 and the motor revs higher so this is better than one of those ridiculous tachs. Plus I had this already and nobody wanted it when I had it for sale so I figured I'd use it.




The backside of the dashboard and it's wiring. everything is made to be unplugged and removed




The coolant overflow tank and the oil tank for the oil metering pump. I hate that they are shiny I will probably get them powdercoated black before I use them. The bracket is a bit dodgy so I may just redo it. You can't see it much in the picture but it's kinda a contraption.

djessence

Wow, nice setup. Whats this heat hazard sensor for? Cuz it looks like is where the seat goes?

yetterben

i would assume exhaust over heat light??? Thats a big box of cams yah got here :P

djessence

ah, makes sense

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

Here's a picture of the driver's side front wiring harness. Pretty much the only thing in there is engine wiring and the front lights wiring. Obviously it inculdes the main power wire to the fuse box and the alternator power wire.




The unfinished wiring going across to the passenger side lights in the front.




A shot of the driver's side wiring where it enters the chassis. It all goes in this reletively small bundle around the pedal assembly now instead of half in front and half behind like on the stock harness. Again there's about only half the wiring of a stock car. The factory CPU is gone and all the other crap from this location as well. The brake switch and clutch switch are about all that remains.



Here's where the factory fuse box resides now. I mounted it to a aluminium plate as well as the under hood fuse holder. The fusible links are replaced with fuses according to the correct amperage. I used the factory fuse box because of convinience and only about half the circuits exsist now everything unused is removed from the box. The factory wiring reaches pretty well so I didn't have to solder many wires. I was mostly trying to avoid soldering all the big ignition wires. As you can see a bit of the wiring hasn't been bundled up at this point do to me waiting to make a couple additions still.




The factory ECU and it's wiring also the fuel pump resistor relay is here as well. I'm not sure if I can get rid of it yet and replace it with a standard Bosch relay as I have done for everything else. The two relays close to the ECU are the Fuel injection relays I split the duty of the factory main realy into two 30A Bosch ones. I don't like using anymore proprietary electronics than I have to. Not to mention these are really easy to buy anywhere and I keep a couple in the car in case of failure. The circuit opening relay is still factory as well for now. It will be leaving also.




Side sills with the cover on.




Side sills with the cover off. I got some 1 inch angle aluminium cut it to length and bolted it to the chassis to trap the wiring harness. It's simple and effective. Could be prettier but I'm not trying to win a car show. Self tapping sheet metal screws and washers fasten it.




A pic of the rear harness connections. The factory plug being utilized again. The main power wire from the battery fused also doubling as a place to disconnect the wiring. Also the factory wiring plug for the fuel pump reused but the wires are only for switching the fuel pump relay as they no longer will be used for actual power to the pump.




One of the fuel pump relay. The wiring is simple and you can buy Bosch relay with disassembled connectors so that you can just unplug the connector when changing the relay. The pump is grounded behind the relay on a bare piece of sheetmetal. I also god one of those Brother label makers and fet I had to label the relay even though no one will ever be working on the car but me so it doesn't really matter anyways. Perhaps it will keep people from asking what it's for though. It's also the only thing in the back of the car except the taillights, lol!




A ground bus I made for all the in car grounds. Made from some aluminium. I'm sure over time there will be a bit of an issue with the dis-similar metals but I'll fix it if it even happens. There is also a grond wire that eventually leads to the negative post of the battery from this point. Once again it's not technically needed but will ensure a quality ground none the less.




Well there it is hopefully some of this information will come in handy to someone and possibly give them ideas how to get rid of some of their unused electronics.
My car is very simple and has nothing wired up that isn't beening used. It will make troubleshooting in the future very easy. I probaby removed about 15-20 pounds of wiring alone from my car. Not to mention about 40lbs in tar. Cheap speed I love it. The car is coming along and yes I'm still waiting on the mount brackets. I am starting to get pissed and much longer and I build them myself with my MIG instead. I just wanted them TIGed so they would be extra nice but now I'm wondering if it's worth the wait. I only have a couple things left to do then I'm standing around doing nothing. Paint the front interior of the car, adjust the steering wheel height (Whenever my seat rail gets here), and a few other knick knacks. Thanks for reading.

I promise this will get done soon.

djessence

I hope it hasnt already been asked but do you forsee any oil temp issues with the flat mounting of the oil cooler?

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

I would say it isn't an issue. Especially if he runs ducting to it. In my Mazda Competition Manual it shows that as one of two options for mounting the oil cooler.

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

this is a nice build...the oil cooler is fine...ducting would help

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

instead of that aluminum bar that you have for grounding ... I would of used a solid copper bar.

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

No but it's not flat it's at the same angle as the stock grill. And I didn't read that far but caught out of the corner of my eye that the next poster mentioned that:

It the factory race preperation manual 15 degree cooler oil temps were achevied by laying the cooler parallel to the ground. Most of which I'm assuming is just moving away from the radiator to minimize the heating of each other and maybe the way the factory aerodynamics work there's a good flow characteristic through the cooler of some kind. Mine is about a foot from the radiator and at a let's say 45 degreeish angle. I did it as an experement with my 12a and on my inexpensive oil temp gauge it was worth 7-10 degrees depending on how you looked at the needle and what type of driving I was doing. It was however hard to view while drifting and so when the engine was taxed most I don't know if there was a change.

I'm glad someone is paying attention though and now you know how to mount yours in the future. There are holes in the chassis already on that axis they are for your typical 12mm headed blot the bracket it simple and the steelbraided lines cost about $70 to build. It's worth it's weight in gold IMO.

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

I thought about it but i already had the aluminium and cu is expensive. I guess aluminium isn't cheap either though but it was paid for a long time ago so I didn't notice.

Just so you know guys there is probably about $300 worth of wires, connectors and the like to rewire the car in the way I have. Just a heads up for those of you thinking about attempting this. Also Bear in mind the main power and grounding cable is quite expensive per foot. It's not only 10-20 strand 4 gauge. I believe it's like 200-500 strand or something ridiculous like that. If anyone is wondering "What does it matter?" Trust me it does. Why do you think so many companies make grounding kits and you see hp gains on the dyno. Mostly because factory wiring on all cars is barely good enough to work mediocre. The electrics are the most overlooked and neglected things in the car. I've seen dyno pulls of cars before and after in person with just a couple new ground wires on the engine and the car makes 10 or so more hp. Why is that because the factory stuff is failing and needs to be replaced. theoretically you need capacitors to help regulate voltage correctly so everything always recieves as much power as it needs at all times. Critical things like the ECU, injectors, sensors, solenoids, coils, and all the relays. Even the way the stock S5 wiring harness is made is substandard in my opinion. I was tempted and may do it in the future to:

Add more relays to distribute the power more evenly. Like a relay for the injector power alone, one ofr the ignition coils and one for all the solenoids. All these things rapidly turn on and off. and are off on off on all the time. increasing and decreasing the load on the power wires to them. If they are all seperate and regulated better they interfer less with each other hence the engine will run smother. There is a point where the cost out weighs the benefit. I don't know when that really is. I went about half way. Kinda like a really expensive well done half assing if you will. I will be using a buddy club battery which is small and only I think 15lbs or so and the buddyclub brand voltage stabalized to help "clean up" the power source (The alternator). The voltage stabalizers DO work and they are sound in their theory of operation as far as electronics go. They are a bit expensive though and could be replicated cheaper. Of course they wouldn't look so fancy. I chose to just buy one since it's pre-packaged and looks nice also matching the brand of the battery. As they where designed to work with each other obviously since they are from the same manufacturer.

I am awaiting the new battery to arrive since I had to sell the one I had to a customer whose car needed it after swapping a RB25DET into a S13 there isn't much room left. It's cool though since I can't even put the drivetrain in the car yet anyways! (OMAR!)

And thanks DJ for letting me ramble on your quoted message. None of this is pointed towards you in any way I just figured I'd do it all in one post.

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

You would assume right......I think all RX-7's have them, Maybe not an FD though I have no idea. All RX-7's till the end of FCs do though. I think that one is for like 212 degrees F or something. Man that's hot. My floorboard is hot but not that hot. I think we should all post floorboard temps in a thread during the summer to see what's up. I'm sure the turbo cars would be hotter but water sizzles on my floorboard in the summer when it's 115 outside and you run the car hard. You also can't wear flip flops in there or they begine to melt on the bottom. I'm not kidding either. I don't have heat sheilds except for the gas tank part.

Yeah if anyone wants that whole box of SOHC VTEC Honda camshafts they can have it. there's like three or four of each of the following: D16Z6, D16Y8, and JDM D15B. I think there may even be a two stage VTEC D15B from a OBD 2 car. Also got a box of Honda alternators a single human being can barely pick up. All good and serviceable. Not even sure whats in there but it's heavy.

I work on a lot of Hondas can you tell? Those are all stock btw and free for the taking. I just filled my trash can up with about 300lbs of intake manifolds, compressors, power steering pumps, this that and the other all leftovers from Honda builds over the years. It's spring cleaning time! Also got a crap load of FB parts that need to go away. PM me if you guys need anything I might have I just need all this stuff gone. Some stuff I'll want a bit of money for but the rest of it needs to get out. I'm cleaning house son!

yetterben

If you got some H22 cams i will take those!!!!!

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

Just sold my last set about a month ago they were euro accord type-r's. $300



This just arrived today.

For the benefit of those who have never seen a buddy club brand battery here it is. The pack of cigarettes is 100s size you you have a comparison. The battery is small but my buddy used his to jump his dad's desiel truck one time and the one I had fired my 12a no problem. Needless to say it packs a big punch. I haven't seen a motor it won't start.




Top view. It comes with three options for battery cable attachment. The standard US size terminals, the JDM size terminals (smaller), and the way I like to use it. two M6 (Ithink that's the right size) screw in posts with wing nuts. You can substitue actual nuts or bolts or what ever you like of course




side view




wing nut terminals




You can buy these a lot of places but the easiest is ebay. they hover around $150 shipped. You can buy them a D1 comps for $100 with no tax when buddy club brings their booth. They are deep cycle and gel filled I believe. Pretty much a tiny optima battery. I believe it weighs around 15lbs or so.

yetterben

Man buddy needs cams for his frankenstein h22 f22 build damn!!!!!

Vashner

It's awesome progress. BTW where your fuel pump relay is. Install a pump kill switch into that circuit (if you already have not). You can also use like Marine things where it needs the wierd red key. That way it's more than just flipping a switch. 99% of thugs will bail and move on down the road at that point.

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

There's still other things that have to work for the fuel pump to turn on. Remember you can't start a fuel injected car just by starting up the fuel pump. Trust me there is security measures built in it won't be easy to steal. You can break in and run that fuel pump all you want till the battery is dead and it will never start I promise you. And no the starter signal doesn't get interuptted at all. Trust me it would take most people a half an hour to figure out why the car won't start and in actuality it would take hours for most theives. Not to mention the car lives in the garage and is protected by my 12gauge.

Sgt Fox

iTrader: (3)

Installed my kit today. Everything went pretty smoothly. Some of the issues I had:

-Needed to pick up two ignition lock bolts, as once you chisel them off, you need new ones.

-Lower radiator hose and outlet has zero clearance from rack. Is this how it should be?

-Poly bushed control arms were a pain to fit into the crossmember.

-Installed everything, tried horn. Horn worked. Then inserted key into ignition. Horn stopped working. What had happened was when the key was out, the ignition lock created a ground to the steering shaft. Upon inserting the key, the ground was broken, and the horn wouldn't work. My solution for this was a small piece of wire from the rack to the crossmember, thus grounding the steering shaft permanently. Has noone else had this problem? I don't see any other way for the shaft to ground.

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

I don't have a horn so I don't know. But it seems you're probably right. I also don't know about the hose clearance yet. You should have used my two prybar sissors trick to put the control arms in. They go in really easy that way. How do you like the steering feel and which steering ratio do you have?

Dan H

Sweet, keep up the good work

Sgt Fox

iTrader: (3)

Car is still up in the air, as I have a leaky front brake caliper I am fixing today. Car goes in for an alignment on Monday morning, and then I can tel you.

I got the 20:1 rack and its three and a half turns lock to lock. Really smooth. I think I am going to put a little grease on the spring that holds the horn button out, as it is making a rubbing noise.

Aside from that, the only other obscurity was that after measuring the correct amount of rod exposed in the car, the other end was 1/8" too short to make the 7/8" into the U-joint. 3/4" still went into the U-joint, so I wasn't concerned.

What is your prybar scissors method?

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

Here up go the prybar scissors method. I thought I posted these pictures but I didn't see them in the post so here they are.




It takes a bit of coornidation to balance them correctly but once you do it makes putting the lower control arms and rear lower control arms easy as hell.