1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Re-Speed Brake kit rubbing

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Old May 8, 2015 | 12:48 PM
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Re-Speed Brake kit rubbing

Has anyone else experienced this when installing the Re-Speed big brake kit? Lower control arm rubbing the rotor... Maybe I'm missing something?
Attached Thumbnails Re-Speed Brake kit rubbing-controlarm.jpg  
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Old May 8, 2015 | 01:47 PM
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From: KC
The bbk doesn't change the geometry but that toe block does.
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Old May 8, 2015 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
The bbk doesn't change the geometry but that toe block does.
Would not running roll center adjusters cause any issues on a lowered car other than bump steer?
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Old May 8, 2015 | 02:11 PM
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I'm not 100% sure. I haven't messed with a setup like yours. I bet "Carl" in the first gen section could answer this. He's done a lot with the bbk and different suspensions on his racecare.
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Old May 8, 2015 | 03:44 PM
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I was reading step 3 of the Re-Speed install instructions and it seems that it's possible to use RCA's, in fact you would need to use them to mount the caliper rearward.

Step 3:
Using the factory FB bolts and lock washers secure the new caliper bracket to the spindle. The calipers can be located in front of or behind the axle centerline. In order to mount the caliper in the rearward of centerline position you will need to be using roll center blocks. This is due to clearance of the lower mounting ear will be too tight to fit with the steering arm being spaced down and away.

Would grinding the leading edge of the lower control arm to get the clearance I need be the only option?
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Old May 8, 2015 | 06:18 PM
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That's probably what I would do is grind it a bit. Shouldn't need to grind much, just enough that it doesn't rub any more.
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Old May 8, 2015 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 82FanTC
That's probably what I would do is grind it a bit. Shouldn't need to grind much, just enough that it doesn't rub any more.
Just took a grinder and removed a bit of material. Fits perfect now. Hopefully this helps if anyone else runs into this in the future.
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Old May 8, 2015 | 10:40 PM
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Ran into the same issue on my race car build. I am using 4 lug hubs and redrilled 5 lug rotors on my car and the issue is worse for me because the 4 lug hubs are shorter than 5 lug hubs. I am also running 2" spacers on my car.


To solve it I clearanced the end of the control arm and added a 5mm spacer between the hub and the rotor.
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Old May 8, 2015 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mustanghammer
Ran into the same issue on my race car build. I am using 4 lug hubs and redrilled 5 lug rotors on my car
A buddy and I were just discussing this, I'm swapping to FC front subframe and want to run TII front calipers with 4-lug front hubs. Can I just re-drill the TII rotors to a 4-lug and bolt on the brake caliper using the 4-lug front hub? If so that's awesome and I'll have to pick up that setup ASAP!
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Old May 9, 2015 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by roarinrotaryrx7
Would not running roll center adjusters cause any issues on a lowered car other than bump steer?
Yes, It not only will influence bump steer, but it will change the location of the roll center drastically and can make the car handle like a turd.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 09:42 PM
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From: Parkville, Mo
Originally Posted by DreamInRotary
A buddy and I were just discussing this, I'm swapping to FC front subframe and want to run TII front calipers with 4-lug front hubs. Can I just re-drill the TII rotors to a 4-lug and bolt on the brake caliper using the 4-lug front hub? If so that's awesome and I'll have to pick up that setup ASAP!


Yes you can but you may have an issue withy the way the hub fits the rotor. In my setup the 5mm spacer I added for rotor clearance also makes everything fit with no issues.
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