apexwarrior

>>>>>ok now what..?

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I have come full circle and have allmost finished the carb rebuild. wow its looks alot differant then when I started. I had to use the drill only once, you know the floats? that they have some pointy things with springs attacted to them.. well the other part. the barrel with the holes. I used a big flat head and couldn't get it to move. I used a small enogh screwdriver( to wedge through the hole and turn it) and it snaped. Then I grabed then drill and a 1/4" driill bbit. whizzzzz whizzzz.. no problems

I got a chance to do machnical secondarys. easy as pie.

I got some photos for ya to look at.. let me know if I can leave these out.. I am going to JB weld some of the open holes. I took these pics with my cell cam, i couldn't find my digital

the second pic : what hole can I block? can I remove the switch I am holding?

the third pic: Can I block off the round cilinder looking thing? Can I remove and block the thing with the black and red wires?

I am going to place the carb back on the motor tomorrow. AT which time I am also going to remove the actuator for the shutter valve and JB weld it open.

Is the car I am looking at an early model RX2, 3, or 4? or posibly something else?

Kentetsu

Instead of JB welding the shutter valve open, just remove the tiny brass screws and pull the shutter right out of there. Leave the shaft in place so you don't need to worry about any other part of it. Anyway, that's how I handled it...

Pen_Two

I commend you. I find myself kind of worried to remove my carb. I have this really bad feeling I won't get it back on right.

inittab

The car is a Lancia Bèta. There's no rotary inside.

Sterling

I say if you're not going to remove the shaft, then leave the butterfly valve in. The obstruction is the gigantic oversized shaft they used in the runner. The valve will just help guide air around it a bit and eliminate some turbulence. -A bit like an airplane rudder.

Picture one is the Throttle Posistion Sensor. It's a simple 2 way switch that tells the CPU what throttle mode you're in; cruise or idle. It's adjustable via a screw on the OMP linkage, and could come in handy if you wanted to activate something like an electronic exhaust dump at a certain throttle position.

I have a whole box of 'em.

Pic 2 -You have your hand on the Float Bowl Vent Solenoid. That single lead, black and white, needs to go to an ignition switched positive 12V lead. This activates a tiny electromagnet inside which snaps open a spring loaded plunger that uncovers the carb vent. It's for emissions control so that when your engine is off, you don't vent gas fumes into the atmosphere. It's a real PITA. If you don't have it hooked up your carb won't work and will suffer a whole range of issues.

Picture 3 is the Altitude Compensation Valve. It's a complex little gadget but simple in design. It contains an accordian-like brass sealed bellos that has an inert gas trapped inside. It is therefore subject to very subtle changes in atmospheric pressure and can expand and contract easiliy. When it does, it opens and closes a very precision valve to allow more or less air into the idle circuit to compensate for the higher or lower oxygen count of the air.
Yank it. But be sure to plug all the holes very well. The main breather ran from that to the nipple just above the mixture screw- that nipple has to be capped. Don't pack it fulla **** because the idle circuit in the throttle body has all sorts of cross drilled passages and a crumb of epoxy resin putty or a drip from too much JB weld can **** it up forever.

The solenoid beside it (dead center on carb) is the Richer Solenoid, and is the electronic version of a power valve. It doesn't work very well, and I've never been able to notice a difference with or without one even in hill climbing runs. But don't pull it out or you'll have a mess to have to plug up.

apexwarrior

thanks Sterling. I hope I did everything ok. What about below the float bowl vent? in between where the OMPlins go? Is that something that should be caped?

If not I know where to get a carb from

I don't think I am going to keep this car for much more time. The chassis has rot, cost to fix was stated at $15oo.00. I think maybe I can buy a tig welder or something and fix it for a cheaper price. I am not sure how to weld so that makes more books I am going to have to weld.