glenndesmo

Hi Everyone,

I have a newbie question relating to the installation of a Racing Beat Front Sway Bar. I am in the process of replacing control arms ( Done), Tension Rod Bushings and the old stock Sway Bar with a Racing Beat Front, to go with the already upgraded strut inserts and new coils.

Any tips in getting the previous sway bar support brackets installed with the new support bushings. I seem to get close but every time I try to close the support bracket, the other end moves out of the slot.

Suggestions very much appreciated.

Regards
Glenn

GSLSEforme

Patience and then some more.

yeti

iTrader: (1)

What I did was remove the sway bar/tension rod mounting brackets and install the sway bar bracket off the car. This is how the instruction suggest you do it. When you install on the car you only need to hold the whole unit up and line up the holes get the bolt started on one side then get the bolt started on the other.

That said I have replace the swaybar bushings while the unit was installed on the car but taking everything out is a lot more easy.

Maybe this video will help. I haven't watched through it all but it was in my YT history.

aeenox

Hey, I followed the instructions Racing beat provided. I only used one tip that was suggested on here. To put the bushing bracket in and over the bushings I used some jaw locking pliers and tighten up the pliers til the bushing bracket was seated then I put the screw in while the pliers are holding the bracket in place. It was pretty simple to install I read on here that you need to shave or cut some material off the tension rods bracket to fit the racing beat sway bar. I didn't have to do any of that.

Oh and racing beat still is putting the brand and part number stickers upside down on the sway bar.

LongDuck

One thing that nobody mentioned; after you install the bar and the mounts, articulate the bar up and down several inches to be sure it doesn't impinge on the seam edge for the fender bodywork. You'll see what I mean when you pull the bar ends UP as in compression of the suspension. The problem that arises is that people install the bar and figure it's good, only to later realize that the bar bottoms out on that metal edge, which cuts into the bar over time and also bottoms out suspension travel under hard cornering - making for some wonky steering and imbalance, mid-corner.

You may have to use a die grinder to give the bar extra upward travel in that area without hitting the bodywork edge. This is well worth the effort, and a little spray paint rust seals it pretty well.

glenndesmo

Thanks, everyone for the comments .. Will try later this evening..

Regards
Glenn

GSLSEforme

Covered this a couple years back advising others on RB and other larger diameter bar installs. I have seen only one 1st gen that didn’t need body massaged in that area.

I prefer to mark the radius with a sharpie and used air powered hack saw and cut material away in a semicircle as needed and stitch weld body panels together and paint.
Done this way,mod not even noticeable.

glenndesmo

Thanks for everyone's comment's and it finally go these installed this evening, with a combination of lock pliers and rubber mallet to drive the bracket into the slot. I see the probe related to the seam edge as one side seems to have clearance and the other is impinging. I am presuming I need at least 5 mm clearance ?Does that seem about right? I am trying to understand the amount required once the suspension is under load.

Regards
Glenn

GSLSEforme

Leave bar disconnected at lower control arm and cycle it through range of motion.
Bar should be @level at static ride height.
Compressed suspension will have bar moving higher than level.
1/4” is appropriate amount of clearance.

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

Putting a new front bar on this weekend, so sure appreciate this thread.