B6T

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure if my clutch in my clutch fan is malfunctioning. I read the factory service manual, but it doesn't mention anything about the operation of the fan other then the fact that there's supposed to be resistance when you turn it with the engine off... not very informative.

So the question is: Is the fan supposed to stay at the same RPMs as the engine (even up to redline) or is it supposed to only spin to a certain speed? Mine is spinning at the same speed as the engine, from idle, all the way up to 7000rpm.

Also, are the 13B-RE (Cosmo) fans a good upgrade? Do they work on the GSL-SE 13B?

Thanks!

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

here's the real question: Is it overheating at stop and go traffic?

GavinJuice

it works according to engine temperature and it engages and disengages depending upon that. If it's hot and you rev it to 7 grand then it's gonna go right along with it.

That being said, when they fail, they fail running all the time. So it's time for a new fan clutch. Not a big deal but your wasting fuel running rich all the time since your car thinks it needs to warm up.

B6T

iTrader: (2)

Not at all... the needle never passes the degree marking on the "deg C" of the coolant temp gauge.


It's running all the time, so I guess the clutch has failed. I don't see how its wasting fuel though, the clutch isn't electronically controlled. The ECU should have nothing to do with it, so it shouldn't be injecting extra fuel to warm the engine up...

Thanks for the help!

blackspade13

personally i think it would be best to upgrade to an electric fan, I did and have no problems

ray green

iTrader: (14)

When it is functioning properly and the radiator is not too hot, the fan clutch will be disengaged but will still spin along with the engine, but not as fast, especially at high speeds. The relationship between engine speed and coasting fan speed is described in the factory service manual and can be checked with a strobe.

When the radiator is hot, as when there is insufficient air flow for the amount of heat being generated by the engine (ie when sitting in traffic) the fan engages and pulls air - this is accompanied by a noticeable whooshing sound and obvious blowing of air through the radiator by the fan. It should then disengage when the rad cools down.

Here's a movie of the incorrect way to check for a properly idling fan clutch. The proper way is to do it with the brush end of a broom:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oi7BANPkh-Y

There are a number of problems with going with an electric fan add on, although there are a number of "fans" of this "upgrade".

1. You have to buy one, which is money down the drain if you already have a functioning fan clutch.

2. It won't cool as efficiently, since the stock set up is specifically designed for maximum air flow through the stock radiator and past the fan.

3. You put extra electrical stress on the charging system, which negates any power boost or fuel savings you might think you would get by removing the belt-driven fan clutch (ie the alternator is also belt-driven).

4. Generally speaking alterations of this sort diminish resale value of the car because it takes it away from stock.

Let the arguments begin!

Ray

B6T

iTrader: (2)

Thanks a lot for a great answer!

I have an FAL electric fan sitting on a shelf, but I still won't install it. I like the reliability of a mechanical fan, especially with a rotary and it's zero-forgiveness to overheating. Mine is definately broken... I'm pretty sure that if I used my hand to try and stop it, I'd probably break a few fingers, nothing like that fan in the video.

Thanks for the help! I'll replace it ASAP! I miss hitting the redline :'(