Question about my first RX7 - 1982
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Question about my first RX7 - 1982
Hi all,
G'day from Australia - a newbie to the Rotaries..
I just picked up my first RX7 (finally!) and was wondering if you could give me any basic ideas of things to look out for - important maintenance tips -
anything essential I should know, because Ive never owned a rotary before.
After researching a bit I have found that I should never use synthetic oil -
probably quality 20w50 is best ,and to make sure the coolant is always fine cause heat = very very bad
Its a stock 12A, 5 speed and everything appears original - and it has 220,000 on the clock. Interior needs some work but the body and engine appear ok (not that i know what to look for - it just doesnt make any weird sounds and is pretty strong)
Im not sure what exact model it is (S model or whatever - how do I find this?)
When would i be likely to be up for rebuild or replace? and how much does this cost ?
Would it be fine to take on long trips? like 1000 miles upwards in a day...
Any info you could give me would be really appreciated! Im really looking forward to getting out in this one... I have ridden road bikes until now (still do) and this car is the closest thing to a bike on the road with 4 wheels! I love the sound, the power and the style... Im excited!
Thanks for your help all...
drive safe
Geoff
G'day from Australia - a newbie to the Rotaries..
I just picked up my first RX7 (finally!) and was wondering if you could give me any basic ideas of things to look out for - important maintenance tips -
anything essential I should know, because Ive never owned a rotary before.
After researching a bit I have found that I should never use synthetic oil -
probably quality 20w50 is best ,and to make sure the coolant is always fine cause heat = very very bad
Its a stock 12A, 5 speed and everything appears original - and it has 220,000 on the clock. Interior needs some work but the body and engine appear ok (not that i know what to look for - it just doesnt make any weird sounds and is pretty strong)
Im not sure what exact model it is (S model or whatever - how do I find this?)
When would i be likely to be up for rebuild or replace? and how much does this cost ?
Would it be fine to take on long trips? like 1000 miles upwards in a day...
Any info you could give me would be really appreciated! Im really looking forward to getting out in this one... I have ridden road bikes until now (still do) and this car is the closest thing to a bike on the road with 4 wheels! I love the sound, the power and the style... Im excited!
Thanks for your help all...
drive safe
Geoff
It's Back!
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati
Congrats. First thing you should probably do is ATF it. There is a great write-up on this procedure, which restores compression and removes engine deposits, at
http://www.mazspeed.com/faq3.htm\
as well as some other DIY projects such as tightening steering etc.
On the same site, under ultra garage and ignition questions, there is a write-up on the "poor mans MSD" that has over 100 replies and is worth checking out.
Some things to look out for; check for rust on the underside of the door panels,along the bottom. Also, in your wheelwells is a trouble spot.
all I can think of for now besides the usual stuff, feul filter (adding a second in-line filter by the carb is a good precautionary measure), air filter, change the oil every 3000 miles at most, always change the filter along with the oil, plugs, wires, dist., rotor, so on and so forth.
http://www.mazspeed.com/faq3.htm\
as well as some other DIY projects such as tightening steering etc.
On the same site, under ultra garage and ignition questions, there is a write-up on the "poor mans MSD" that has over 100 replies and is worth checking out.
Some things to look out for; check for rust on the underside of the door panels,along the bottom. Also, in your wheelwells is a trouble spot.
all I can think of for now besides the usual stuff, feul filter (adding a second in-line filter by the carb is a good precautionary measure), air filter, change the oil every 3000 miles at most, always change the filter along with the oil, plugs, wires, dist., rotor, so on and so forth.
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Wellington, New Zealand
i found the best oil to use castrol gtx, do put in the second fuel filter in, with oil filter there are two you may have biggish one on there, you can buy a small verison which incresces the oil pressure a bit, and get an K&N air filter on it! Th eengine coolant i find best is to mix it 80% coolant and 20% water and the raditor hold about 4 litres ( i think top off head??). A good perforance tip is go to a auto electrican and get them to but on a electrical cooling fan. For a rebuild with a full warranty yuor look at
13b turbo from $3,800 +GST
13b standard from $3200 +GST
13b PP from $4800 + GST
13b extended port from 3400 +GST
This all aussie dollars from
Selectmaz in epping, Vic
they have a web site at www.selectmaz.com.au
they have all lot of other bits too. Their motors are good i brought one from them it run great.
13b turbo from $3,800 +GST
13b standard from $3200 +GST
13b PP from $4800 + GST
13b extended port from 3400 +GST
This all aussie dollars from
Selectmaz in epping, Vic
they have a web site at www.selectmaz.com.au
they have all lot of other bits too. Their motors are good i brought one from them it run great.
Thanks All!
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Forgive my ignorance on the climate of your area... But if they salt the roads where you are then I can tell you that Suparslinc was right, the wheelwells are a huge problem on the 1st gens. I've had experience with 3 winter-driven first gens and they all rusted to crap under there.
The problem is a plate that is added on the inside corner towards the front of the car. I imagine it's there for increased structural stability. At any rate, the brilliant enginneers at Mazda drilled holes in the plate, in a lame attempt to allow it to drain. If you take a close look you'll see the plate moves out about 1/4 inch from the actual wheelwell wall. Notice also that the drainage holes are not at the bottom of the plate. In other words, salty water gets in, but never out, even when you wash the car regularily.
In all the 3 cars, the rust was out of control. If you see rust on that plate, start chipping away and I'm sure you'll just keep chipping and chipping. Eventually there may even be a hole right into the car. If you take out your compartments you'll be able to see the rust from the inside.
In the car I actually own I took my compartments completely out and fiber-glassed the entire wheelwell from the inside. Then I applied a very generous layer of undercarriage coating to the outside. It has lasted 3 years to date with no problems. But that was a crappy job, as tar drips on you head when you are under the car with a brush. lol
Of course, I doubt it would be that much of a problem if they don't salt your roads. For anyone who reads this who doesn't get snow: be thankfull, very thankfull.
The problem is a plate that is added on the inside corner towards the front of the car. I imagine it's there for increased structural stability. At any rate, the brilliant enginneers at Mazda drilled holes in the plate, in a lame attempt to allow it to drain. If you take a close look you'll see the plate moves out about 1/4 inch from the actual wheelwell wall. Notice also that the drainage holes are not at the bottom of the plate. In other words, salty water gets in, but never out, even when you wash the car regularily.
In all the 3 cars, the rust was out of control. If you see rust on that plate, start chipping away and I'm sure you'll just keep chipping and chipping. Eventually there may even be a hole right into the car. If you take out your compartments you'll be able to see the rust from the inside.
In the car I actually own I took my compartments completely out and fiber-glassed the entire wheelwell from the inside. Then I applied a very generous layer of undercarriage coating to the outside. It has lasted 3 years to date with no problems. But that was a crappy job, as tar drips on you head when you are under the car with a brush. lol
Of course, I doubt it would be that much of a problem if they don't salt your roads. For anyone who reads this who doesn't get snow: be thankfull, very thankfull.
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Full Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Lewiston, Maine / Orlando, Florida
Better idea!
How about this guys: Get a winter beater! This is what I did up here in Maine, USA.
Mine is a 1983 GSL no rust and going strong with only 65,000!
MY BABY..... *drool*
Mine is a 1983 GSL no rust and going strong with only 65,000!
MY BABY..... *drool*
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