Now I have searched and gotten conflicting info on the subject of replacing the u-joints in my 83' GS, some say take it to a driveline shop others say get the full replacement driveshaft. I have realized I don't have the tools to get them out myself and was thinking of taking it and having them pressed out but, first I just want to know can it be done or should I just rake up the cash for a new driveshaft? Also I already bought u-joints so would that make it worth it?

 

I havnt looked into changing any ujoints on my rx7, but I imagine a u-joint is a just a u-joint. I've changed many on my jeep.
It doesn't require any special tools, you should be able to do it yourself in your garage.
Have you changed a u-joint before?
Look it up on YouTube or somewhere similar, it is pretty straight-foward.

 

I believe you have to have an aftermarket to replace from what I saw on mine. On regular ujoints I would take a c-clamp on an air ratchet and press them out. I have my driveshaft off the car currently. That's what I saw.

 

IIRC only the 79-80 drivelines have replaceable u-joints, from 81-85 they are staked in place, not circliped like a regular u-joint. Im sure you could grind out the staking and replace the u-joint, but since there is no locating shoulder you will never be able to balance it at home.

Isaac
(has a huge pile of bad drivelines... always cheaper to go grab another used one.)

 

It's actually 79-82 that has replaceable u-joints. 83 on up does not have replaceable u-joints. I've seen threads where people have done it, but as Isaac said, you can't really get it perfectly centered and it will never be perfect...

If it were me I'd just get a new one, Mazdatrix makes one that takes a commonly available u-joint (small dodge truck I think..)

 

Very few driveline shops can successfully rebuild the driveshaft for an 83+ RX7. I've had 2 shafts rebuilt, by 2 different shops. The 2nd shop also had to correct the one I had done at the other place.......

 

Thanks for the info guys, buyint from a salvage is a no go as we don't have any first gens in them, and since we are going by the driveline shop anyway I'll ask about haveing it fitted for the dodge ones. Again thanks for the info guys.

 

Since you are somewhat local, I'll pass along the name of the shop I used the 2nd time around. It's called "Powertrain" located on skelly drive (frontage road for I-44) in west Tulsa.
They did a good job on rebuilding one for me, and repairing the other one (joint wasn't properly centered), and they have rebuilt a couple for people I know.

 

if I had to do it again, I would of gotten the rebuildible u-joint from mazda trix in 1991. The machine shops charged $100 each time the u-joints had to be replaced and took 3 to 10 days ??!!. The half *** one from a salvage yard was $120.

 

Thanks for he info rouge_wulf we have another one to do in the near future, took it to drive shafts inc. before I saw this but good to know. The only reason I didn't get a new one from mazdatrix is time, they will have it tomorrow and money $125 w/parts and balancing is better than over $200 plus shipping. Thanks again guys.

 

The staking can easily be pressed through... I made one driveshaft from gslse shaft and t2 yoke.. U joint from rockford driveline... Like 30 bucks.. No vibrations....

 

I've used the rockford driveline joints for years. Even on my race cars. Just mark the yoke and driveshaft to keep the same relationship when putting it back together.

 

I got it back tuesday and droped it of monday and for what they did $125 wasn't too bad, new u-joints, balance, and press out the old ones and 24hr turnaround time and the new ones are replaceable with the grease nipples, I can't really complain.

 

not badi guess... but doing it yourself will cost you under 40 bucks and about 30 mins of labor... just my preference i guess

 

I have an 84 Driveshaft and LSD on my 82. It had a real strong vibration, but the old U-joints looked decent. I ordered a U-joint designed to replace the staked in U-joint.

I had free time so I just went ahead and did the replacement. Since I only had one, I choose to do the front. I could see it had signs of being heated by the exhaust.

I replaced it in about less than an hour, and didn't even have a vice. The vibration is gone by about 90%. Now with the new one in place, it is obvious the rear u-joint is also no good.

I have one ordered.

I can say there is no need for a machine shop to do that job.

Total cost for the U-joint shipped was $21.00

 

^Where did you get the u-joint from? Could help future members if it worked out well.

 

For me the shop stocked um and installed them, I do know Autozone stocks them but, they are the wrong part. Mine were the stockers with 152k mi on them and had never been out that was why I had the shop do it.

 

GMB Rear Propeller Shaft U Joint | eBay

That is the exact one I used. They have another type with C-Clips and I think I will use it next time.

This one comes with 4 circles that you tap in to the yoke over the caps. They expand when crushed, and assure a solid fit.

I got it centered by eye. Comparing to the stake marks on the yoke. Works good.

The Rear and front U-joint are the same on this driveshaft