Putting in a radio and new speakers.....?
10-07-12, 08:16 PM
#1
Putting in a radio and new speakers.....?
A friend of mine gave me a Sony Xplod radio for free so i was going to put in the car to replace the original one. I'm mounting it in the glove compartment so nobody can see it because it's ugly and I don't want anyone to see it and try to steal it.
I'm not sure what's the best setup for speakers. I have the original 4 inch speakers up front that work still but sound god awful.
I'm not into sub woofers or blaring my music so that I can wake the dead to start the zombie apocalypse, I just want a little something so I can enjoy a nice song while I got my window down and make a drive a bit for friendly.
Anybody got any ideas for me?
Should I just find 4 inch speakers to replace the two up front and call it a day?
I'm a COMPETE audio noob, if anyone knows what I should do you're going to have to put it into stupid language and spoon feed me so I can understand. Not really but I hope you understand what I mean.
I'm not sure what's the best setup for speakers. I have the original 4 inch speakers up front that work still but sound god awful.
I'm not into sub woofers or blaring my music so that I can wake the dead to start the zombie apocalypse, I just want a little something so I can enjoy a nice song while I got my window down and make a drive a bit for friendly.
Anybody got any ideas for me?
Should I just find 4 inch speakers to replace the two up front and call it a day?
I'm a COMPETE audio noob, if anyone knows what I should do you're going to have to put it into stupid language and spoon feed me so I can understand. Not really but I hope you understand what I mean.
10-08-12, 12:48 AM
#3
I'm running kicker 4"s all the way around, sounds great and is an inexpensive speaker for good quality. Also the stock speaker covers fit perfectly over them. As far as glove box mounted stereos, seems like it'd be kind of a bitch whenever you want to adjust any of the settings or change a song or adjust the volume. Unless you have a remote that is. And if it has a removable faceplate I wouldn't worry about theft. idk, I just don't think a head unit being ugly is worth the inconvenience. To each his own though. Those kickers are badass though lol.
10-08-12, 03:58 PM
#5
Oh. If you wanted to hook up an amp you could but it isn't necessary. I bought a stereo off of craigslist when I bought by car for 30 buck. It's a clarion, has an aux port and looks like it could almost be stock. I love it. imo, if you're really set on doing a glove box reroute, I'd spend the couple bucks and buy a stereo that'll be worth it.
10-08-12, 04:08 PM
#6
If you add an amp you'll almost certainly need new speakers soon; the stock ones were not rated for much power at all, and even a moderate modern amp will smoke 'em pretty easy.
I used stock-size speakers but replaced the originals with Blaupunkts. Which tells you how long ago I swapped them.
I used stock-size speakers but replaced the originals with Blaupunkts. Which tells you how long ago I swapped them.
10-08-12, 05:11 PM
#7
Alright so stock speakers are alright.
A amp is not necessary.
I have a new replacement antenna that I will be putting in from ebay hopefully soon.
And my "new" radio is fine as it is.
So I'm good to go?
What if a speaker busts on me, and I'm going all out with the four inch speakers and I want an amp.
What will do the trick?
A amp is not necessary.
I have a new replacement antenna that I will be putting in from ebay hopefully soon.
And my "new" radio is fine as it is.
So I'm good to go?
What if a speaker busts on me, and I'm going all out with the four inch speakers and I want an amp.
What will do the trick?
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10-09-12, 11:11 AM
#8
Depends on what you want. You can replace the speakers without an amp. Or you can spend more money and get really good speakers that need an amp. Depends on how good you want it to sound.
There are a few levels of going all out. I am in the middle of going all out myself. New speakers and amp running through the original headunit. You don't need to do that, depends on what you want.
There are a few levels of going all out. I am in the middle of going all out myself. New speakers and amp running through the original headunit. You don't need to do that, depends on what you want.
10-09-12, 11:28 AM
#9
I guess that's the real question, what do I want?
I haven't heard any sound systems in a first gen. so I don't know how well I can make it sound.
I'll put in the "new" radio, antenna and see how well it is with the stock speakers. If not I'll throw in a small amp and put in the 4" kicker speakers.
I just don't know what to look for in an amp.
I haven't heard any sound systems in a first gen. so I don't know how well I can make it sound.
I'll put in the "new" radio, antenna and see how well it is with the stock speakers. If not I'll throw in a small amp and put in the 4" kicker speakers.
I just don't know what to look for in an amp.
10-09-12, 11:43 AM
#10
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no pics but here is my build. I have 6.5" components (tweeter is seperate from woofer) where the front stcok pieces go. I used MDF and fiberglass to make the enclosure. and I also have 6x9's in the trunk behind the carpet that covers the lights. for these a simple 6x9 box from a store works just fine. when I have the funding I will be adding a type R 12" behind my battery (centered under the roll bar)
10-09-12, 12:26 PM
#11
I removed the stock speakers the other day. They are paper and were not meant to last 20+ years. Years ago I installed 4" speakers in my doors just above and forward of the window cranks. I think this position was much better than the stock location down by our feet. The front stock speaker location is almost useless except for providing fill.
Many years ago when I was much younger and much dumber I built a monstrous speaker box with several speakers/amps, including a 12" woofer. The stupid thing was loud but weighed the car down so much you could really notice the performance lacking. After a few months it was stolen. How they got it out is beyond me since I assembled it in the car. Lesson learned.
The only hi-fidelity that I need now is from the tail pipe!
Many years ago when I was much younger and much dumber I built a monstrous speaker box with several speakers/amps, including a 12" woofer. The stupid thing was loud but weighed the car down so much you could really notice the performance lacking. After a few months it was stolen. How they got it out is beyond me since I assembled it in the car. Lesson learned.
The only hi-fidelity that I need now is from the tail pipe!
10-09-12, 12:45 PM
#12
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lol, i doubt weight will be an issue on a basic setup or even if I were to add 200lbs in the trunk. then again I added 120lbs to the front and 75lbs to the rear already plus an extra 300 or so hp
10-09-12, 01:35 PM
#13
What year is your RX-7?
What year is your RX-7?
In my '84, I bought some nice 4" speakers from Frys and some nice 6/9" speakers for the rear which required some massaging and I think I'll cut out the panels and screw the covers that came with the speakers onto the rear plastic panels.
If you want to run any power, you'll need new wiring, I used monster cable and it fit well even up front. I ran two enormous dedicated power cables direct to the battery (with fuses at the battery end) and ran them through a hole in the firewall that had a plastic plug so it's sealed. Then I ran the power cables down under the center console to the two big amps behind the storage boxes. I cut the connectors to the stock amps and separated out the audio signal wires and soldered on RCA plugs that went directly into the amps. I used the stock 'power on' wire to activate the amps when the key is one. Sounds great and the fader works fine that people always play with.
A couple of things.
NEVER use acid core solder on wires.
1) Always ensure that all four speakers are in phase, the positive to the positive from the amp to the speakers and it's marked on both ends as well as on the wires, usually with a strip or a different color wire.
Same with the RCA input cables, the metal shield is the ground and the middle conductor is the center of the RCA plug.
For the amp inputs:
There's an easy way to get the inside cable out of the shield without cutting the shield although it's hard to explain.
1) Cut the insulator off the whole cable at least 1.5" back using a razor blade carefully so you don't damage the shield. I use a bic lighter though, that way, you'll never cut the wires. Then, at 1.5" from the end, make a hole in the insulator by gently widening the shield wires until you get a hole big enough to get the center conductor through. Then massage the center connector so it comes through this hole. This way the ground shield doesn't have any cut wires.
2) If you can get it, use rosin solder goo that I have from a job along time ago. Get forceps (they are important) Attach the forceps to the shield wire you should have already twisted together so it looks like one lead. Attach them as far back as the insulating plastic allows. This is to use them as heat sinks so when you tin the shield wire, it doesn't melt the inside conductor's insulator shorting it out.
3) Tin these wires.
4) I use a bic lighter and about an inch from the end, either melt or carefully cut off the insulator and twist the wires in the direction they are already going. Then put the forceps right behind where the insulator starts. Then using rosin goo, tin these wires.
5) Before soldering on the RCA plugs, ensure you put the plastic covers they come with over the wires so you can slide them back over the metal part of the RCA plugs.
6) Then carefully solder them into the RCA plugs.
7) Plug in and enjoy!
In my '84, I bought some nice 4" speakers from Frys and some nice 6/9" speakers for the rear which required some massaging and I think I'll cut out the panels and screw the covers that came with the speakers onto the rear plastic panels.
If you want to run any power, you'll need new wiring, I used monster cable and it fit well even up front. I ran two enormous dedicated power cables direct to the battery (with fuses at the battery end) and ran them through a hole in the firewall that had a plastic plug so it's sealed. Then I ran the power cables down under the center console to the two big amps behind the storage boxes. I cut the connectors to the stock amps and separated out the audio signal wires and soldered on RCA plugs that went directly into the amps. I used the stock 'power on' wire to activate the amps when the key is one. Sounds great and the fader works fine that people always play with.
A couple of things.
NEVER use acid core solder on wires.
1) Always ensure that all four speakers are in phase, the positive to the positive from the amp to the speakers and it's marked on both ends as well as on the wires, usually with a strip or a different color wire.
Same with the RCA input cables, the metal shield is the ground and the middle conductor is the center of the RCA plug.
For the amp inputs:
There's an easy way to get the inside cable out of the shield without cutting the shield although it's hard to explain.
1) Cut the insulator off the whole cable at least 1.5" back using a razor blade carefully so you don't damage the shield. I use a bic lighter though, that way, you'll never cut the wires. Then, at 1.5" from the end, make a hole in the insulator by gently widening the shield wires until you get a hole big enough to get the center conductor through. Then massage the center connector so it comes through this hole. This way the ground shield doesn't have any cut wires.
2) If you can get it, use rosin solder goo that I have from a job along time ago. Get forceps (they are important) Attach the forceps to the shield wire you should have already twisted together so it looks like one lead. Attach them as far back as the insulating plastic allows. This is to use them as heat sinks so when you tin the shield wire, it doesn't melt the inside conductor's insulator shorting it out.
3) Tin these wires.
4) I use a bic lighter and about an inch from the end, either melt or carefully cut off the insulator and twist the wires in the direction they are already going. Then put the forceps right behind where the insulator starts. Then using rosin goo, tin these wires.
5) Before soldering on the RCA plugs, ensure you put the plastic covers they come with over the wires so you can slide them back over the metal part of the RCA plugs.
6) Then carefully solder them into the RCA plugs.
7) Plug in and enjoy!
10-09-12, 02:20 PM
#14
I've got a '79, it's all stock.
So I have no bins and I have the map holders in the door cards so I can't put speakers in there.
Thanks for the information guys. I took a look at the speakers and they're looking pretty ratty so they'll be replaced.
So I have no bins and I have the map holders in the door cards so I can't put speakers in there.
Thanks for the information guys. I took a look at the speakers and they're looking pretty ratty so they'll be replaced.
10-09-12, 04:31 PM
#16
Pretty sure those are what I have and they fit no prob. I'm on board with the 6x9 idea though. I was thinking about getting some and doing what rx7lives did in front of the tail lights. I'm already missing that plastic as it is so wth why not. Also thinking about running a 10" with a low watt amp. Just can't think of a good way to mount the damn thing. I've got two tens in a box right now but that seems like over kill.
01-02-13, 05:36 PM
#17
Alright so here is an update:
A friend of mine and also a forum member gave me his old speakers; 4 inch and 6 inch pioneer speakers (only using the 4inch). I also got a Sony radio with a detachable face.
I'm looking at the Haynes wiring diagram and it shows a "stereo" right before the radio. Now is that "stereo" an amp or is that the cassette player? I'm pretty confused as to what I'm looking at.
I found out that the cassette player (it is the stock option cassette player) was added after the purchase of the car. So I'm not sure if my car follows the same wiring diagram.
A friend of mine and also a forum member gave me his old speakers; 4 inch and 6 inch pioneer speakers (only using the 4inch). I also got a Sony radio with a detachable face.
I'm looking at the Haynes wiring diagram and it shows a "stereo" right before the radio. Now is that "stereo" an amp or is that the cassette player? I'm pretty confused as to what I'm looking at.
I found out that the cassette player (it is the stock option cassette player) was added after the purchase of the car. So I'm not sure if my car follows the same wiring diagram.
01-02-13, 09:27 PM
#18
My setup looks like this right now:
List of components as of tonight:
Deck - Kenwood KDC-MP735U with USB and AUX and a remote. Puts out 50W over 4 channels, so just about 12.5W peak to each. Not nearly enough in my opinion.
Fronts - 4" Kenwood (no pics or info, I forgot to take pics) with 100W peak I believe.
Rears - 6 1/2" Kenwood KFC-1662S 2-35W RMS, 180W peak
What my setup looked like at one point:
What it all looked like behind there:
Front speakers:
New speakers for the rear, 6 1/2" Kenwoods:
I'm going to be installing an amp that runs 4x100W peak, so 100W peak to each speaker, about 50RMS, so the fronts will be running pretty high and the rears will be right where I want them.
Any questions let me know, I'm pretty big into this stuff now and am currently researching some serious advancements on my 7
List of components as of tonight:
Deck - Kenwood KDC-MP735U with USB and AUX and a remote. Puts out 50W over 4 channels, so just about 12.5W peak to each. Not nearly enough in my opinion.
Fronts - 4" Kenwood (no pics or info, I forgot to take pics) with 100W peak I believe.
Rears - 6 1/2" Kenwood KFC-1662S 2-35W RMS, 180W peak
What my setup looked like at one point:
What it all looked like behind there:
Front speakers:
New speakers for the rear, 6 1/2" Kenwoods:
I'm going to be installing an amp that runs 4x100W peak, so 100W peak to each speaker, about 50RMS, so the fronts will be running pretty high and the rears will be right where I want them.
Any questions let me know, I'm pretty big into this stuff now and am currently researching some serious advancements on my 7
01-02-13, 09:46 PM
#20
Replace fronts with new 4" ones, most coaxial two way units will fit, just try not to get ones that stick out too far just in case keep the reciept so you can change them. Same goes for the rear, i got 6.5"s in behind the std grills no worries.
Depending on how loud your car is you wont hear any bass in yr music and may consider a small powered subwoofer that can be concealed easily. They are pretty affordable, and are easy and neat to install as you dont need worry about where to run an amp as well as a box and all the extra wiring that goes with it.
^thats the setup im running as i wanted to keep a stock appearance as well and as be able to hear music over a big-bore exhaust. Its adequate, but not ideal.
Ideally if you want good sound, a pair of decent 6-6.5 splits up front and a 10" sub in the back would be the go, and no rear speakers if you dont mind cutting holes in your footwell or doorcard and having a sub box in the back.
Depending on how loud your car is you wont hear any bass in yr music and may consider a small powered subwoofer that can be concealed easily. They are pretty affordable, and are easy and neat to install as you dont need worry about where to run an amp as well as a box and all the extra wiring that goes with it.
^thats the setup im running as i wanted to keep a stock appearance as well and as be able to hear music over a big-bore exhaust. Its adequate, but not ideal.
Ideally if you want good sound, a pair of decent 6-6.5 splits up front and a 10" sub in the back would be the go, and no rear speakers if you dont mind cutting holes in your footwell or doorcard and having a sub box in the back.
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