1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Put my Mikuni 51 on and now have questions

Old Mar 11, 2011 | 07:07 AM
  #26  
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From: Lake Wylie, N.C.
Heres a PDF of the manual, or a manual for the PHH series.

http://ddgonzal.members.winisp.net/w...Mikuni-PHH.pdf

Mikuni has website with a lot of info as well:

http://www.mikunipower.com/PHH01.htm

Even has jet recommendations for a 12A. Image is bit large. This is page
29 of the manual. They have scanned in the 30 page manual with links
to each page on here.

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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 08:46 AM
  #27  
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Thanks for that info Tim. By looking at that, the only think that I see Kory needs to do is go bigger on the main fuel jet. Other than that, I guess it should run decent as is.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 09:06 AM
  #28  
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Yeah I think his venturies are probably spot on for a 13B but the jetting is off. I gotta
believe the 13B needs more gas than the 12A According to Mikuni a 12a uses the
39 venturi and he has a 41 which should be fine for a 13B.

Kory, just remember to tune in the right order. Idle, progression, cuise and then
WOT. Each builds on the other. By progression I mean the transition from idle to
cruise.

Get that idle mixture setup right and at a reasonable rpm. Then
work out any transition issues going from idle to cruise. Usually involves adjusting
AP, pressure and/or floats. Then take it on the road to get loaded and WOT tuning
done. I'd do it on a large empty lot or road where you can pull off randomly to
tweak things. Engine sound, exhaust smell and plug color are the old school ways
to tune a carb. If you have access to a wideband that would be ideal I guess.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:55 AM
  #29  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
Yeah I think his venturies are probably spot on for a 13B but the jetting is off. I gotta
believe the 13B needs more gas than the 12A According to Mikuni a 12a uses the
39 venturi and he has a 41 which should be fine for a 13B.

Kory, just remember to tune in the right order. Idle, progression, cuise and then
WOT. Each builds on the other. By progression I mean the transition from idle to
cruise.

Get that idle mixture setup right and at a reasonable rpm. Then
work out any transition issues going from idle to cruise. Usually involves adjusting
AP, pressure and/or floats. Then take it on the road to get loaded and WOT tuning
done. I'd do it on a large empty lot or road where you can pull off randomly to
tweak things. Engine sound, exhaust smell and plug color are the old school ways
to tune a carb. If you have access to a wideband that would be ideal I guess.

good advise! the great thing about the carb is that the old school way does actually work great. i have a WB and used it on the P port, but really only to check my work.

i also kept a little notebook, and went thru each part of the carb one at a time, IE i tried all my idle jets first, then the main fuel jets, etc etc. so i can go back and look at my notes and i can tell you what each part did. once you know what each part does, then you know what part to change.
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