1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Project "turbo II swap" complete and ready to race!! Thanks to folks and learnings..

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Old 04-05-13, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 80's old school
Two cars ended up giving me a little hard time... ZO-6 Corvette.. when he tried.. and a new and highly modified Cadillac CTS-V Supercharged. The owner of the Caddy said his car put down 670+ HP to the rear tires!!
YES!

Nice to watch the car kick some @$$ out there, super fun to watch. And you're sitting at 272WHP, imagine a Cosmo-RE or an REW in there and almost doubling the power - nothing stands a chance
Old 04-05-13, 01:44 PM
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it's always an absolute pleasure to read threads like this. so often, I read threads that have great plans, great execution and great details and something happens that keeps you from seeing the car actually work. you've had it built and you've had it built WELL!

Originally Posted by 80's old school
Car was an absolute reliable animal out on the track today! Ran perfect all day long.
this almost sounds like surprise, but I can't see why. the very fact that you (and the other people involved) are not so shortsighted and greedy to try to max everything out speaks volumes toward knowing what it takes to build a strong, RELIABLE rotary. props due!
Old 04-05-13, 02:48 PM
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common sense prevails....

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Originally Posted by Ghooble
If I may be so bold as to ask (I mean no offense and you're almost certainly a better race driver than I am): Why didn't you go faster than about 40 or so through the sharper turns? I feel like with all the room and power you had you probably could have gone faster. Very nice car :thumb:
Ha Ha... even my wife says it looks like I was babying it around the corners!!! Actually I was on tires that were two seasons old and should have been retired long ago.... I figured I had about 716 track miles on these tires.... A LOT!!

Next time out I will be on new rubber and hopefully better times.

The day before this video, I was running 1:56 times out there... tires were really bad during this video!!!
Old 04-05-13, 02:57 PM
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common sense prevails....

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Originally Posted by 80's old school
Ha Ha... even my wife says it looks like I was babying it around the corners!!! Actually I was on tires that were two seasons old and should have been retired long ago.... I figured I had about 716 track miles on these tires.... A LOT!!

Next time out I will be on new rubber and hopefully better times.

The day before this video, I was running 1:56 times out there... tires were really bad during this video!!!
Actually I went back and looked at the video.... One of the turns is a "hairpin" and the other is a decreasing radius, off camber turn... If you dont slow down, you spin out!!!
Old 04-05-13, 03:18 PM
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common sense prevails....

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Originally Posted by diabolical1
it's always an absolute pleasure to read threads like this. so often, I read threads that have great plans, great execution and great details and something happens that keeps you from seeing the car actually work. you've had it built and you've had it built WELL!


this almost sounds like surprise, but I can't see why. the very fact that you (and the other people involved) are not so shortsighted and greedy to try to max everything out speaks volumes toward knowing what it takes to build a strong, RELIABLE rotary. props due!
Thanks!!!
Old 04-05-13, 03:24 PM
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common sense prevails....

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Originally Posted by diabolical1
it's always an absolute pleasure to read threads like this. so often, I read threads that have great plans, great execution and great details and something happens that keeps you from seeing the car actually work. you've had it built and you've had it built WELL!


this almost sounds like surprise, but I can't see why. the very fact that you (and the other people involved) are not so shortsighted and greedy to try to max everything out speaks volumes toward knowing what it takes to build a strong, RELIABLE rotary. props due!
EXACTLY right!!! I wanted reliabilty. We actually were at higher HP levels on the dyno, but backed down the boost due to injector duty cycles getting too high. The only way to make more power with this combination is with larger injectors.

I also want to add water injection. I could tell that I was experiencing heat soak in the intercooler.... not too bad...but it was there.

Water injection will be one of my future projects. I will do a write up when I do this!!
Old 04-14-13, 12:20 AM
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What boost were you running in the video you posted? 10psi?
Old 04-15-13, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Ghooble
What boost were you running in the video you posted? 10psi?
In the 10-11 psi range.
Old 04-15-13, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 80's old school
In the 10-11 psi range.
That's awesome to know. I bought a project car that was/is running 10 psi and I didn't know what power range I was in. I got a lot to fix still but it hauls *** lol. Thanks man.
Old 04-16-13, 11:13 AM
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CA

Originally Posted by Ghooble
That's awesome to know. I bought a project car that was/is running 10 psi and I didn't know what power range I was in. I got a lot to fix still but it hauls *** lol. Thanks man.
Maybe you are in the same power range at 10 PSI boost.... maybe not.

10 PSI boost in one engine does not automatically equate HP the same as 10 psi boost in another engine.

Case in point:
1st, My engine has a modified BNR turbo with a Garrett TO4 Housing, clipped turbine wheels and fully ported. This change alone will make more HP at the same boost than a stock turbo at 10 PSI.

2nd, I am running a Haltech stand alone fuel management that has been 100% spot on tuned via dyno by RRR in Santa Ana.

3rd, this car has a very efficient exhaust system, custom air inlet, wastgate management that allows boost to come on and stay at set amount. All allows engine to make more HP at a given boost.

4th, on a dyno I have the luxury of cooling the intercooler with water mist before each run to optimise charge air cooling for maximum air density.

Lastly, I run racing fuel which allows tuning with a radical timing curve that one could not even get away with running pump gas.

So, keep in mind... your results may vary!!
Old 04-16-13, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 80's old school
EXACTLY right!!! I wanted reliabilty. We actually were at higher HP levels on the dyno, but backed down the boost due to injector duty cycles getting too high. The only way to make more power with this combination is with larger injectors.

I also want to add water injection. I could tell that I was experiencing heat soak in the intercooler.... not too bad...but it was there.

Water injection will be one of my future projects. I will do a write up when I do this!!
I have an HFS-5 ready for installation, but it's on the back-burner while I actually get my car running.

I'm wondering where the heck to mount the pump.

Couple Q's about your swap:
  • How did you plumb the water pump neck to the radiator -- is that just a silicone hose?
  • Are you running 3" all the way from the downpipe? I'm taking my car to get fitted soon and I didn't know what to expect in terms of what actually fits.
  • Any pics of the swirl pot setup? I've got the actual tank but I'm wondering how you mounted the lift pump.
Old 04-16-13, 06:30 PM
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Very nice T2 fb looking to do a similar swap myself..
Old 04-17-13, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 80's old school
Maybe you are in the same power range at 10 PSI boost.... maybe not.

10 PSI boost in one engine does not automatically equate HP the same as 10 psi boost in another engine.

Case in point:
1st, My engine has a modified BNR turbo with a Garrett TO4 Housing, clipped turbine wheels and fully ported. This change alone will make more HP at the same boost than a stock turbo at 10 PSI.

2nd, I am running a Haltech stand alone fuel management that has been 100% spot on tuned via dyno by RRR in Santa Ana.

3rd, this car has a very efficient exhaust system, custom air inlet, wastgate management that allows boost to come on and stay at set amount. All allows engine to make more HP at a given boost.

4th, on a dyno I have the luxury of cooling the intercooler with water mist before each run to optimise charge air cooling for maximum air density.

Lastly, I run racing fuel which allows tuning with a radical timing curve that one could not even get away with running pump gas.

So, keep in mind... your results may vary!!
Oh I'm aware that my results could very easily and probably DO vary. Was just a thought
Old 06-06-13, 07:07 PM
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Not to semi-necro or anything but is this the TT3 class? Or TT2?
Old 06-06-13, 09:09 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 80's old school
I also want to add water injection. I could tell that I was experiencing heat soak in the intercooler.... not too bad...but it was there.
Don't complicate things on a RACE car.

Simplify.

Set up a V-Mount inter-cooler/radiator with a proper
vented hood and ducting. You will be pleased,
without having to worry about something else going wrong at speed.

Nice Car - Good Luck.
Old 06-06-13, 10:12 PM
  #41  
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary

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Nice build. I noticed your shifting at a low rpm for a rotary engine. Sounds like less than 7k rpm. You should be able to bring it up to at least 8500-9000 rpm and that way you could get more top speed in the straights and all around the track.
Old 06-07-13, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay
Nice build. I noticed your shifting at a low rpm for a rotary engine. Sounds like less than 7k rpm. You should be able to bring it up to at least 8500-9000 rpm and that way you could get more top speed in the straights and all around the track.
He said he was running out of "legs" on the top end.
Old 06-07-13, 08:53 PM
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[QUOTE=Rotor13B;11488912]He said he was running out of "legs" on the top

Sounded like he had plenty of rpm left. What is your rpm at 140 mph in 5th gear?
Old 08-16-13, 09:06 AM
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Cuba, the car is awesome but you drive like a Bitch!
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