Ok the goal for this is to make my FB as reliable as possible. I dont mean a maitenence free system. I am about to go to college and can't really afford to buy another car. So the 7 will have to stay as my DD. I just bought an engine off ebay for her so thats taken care of. I need to buy an non bee hive oil cooler to prolong engine life. What is the best transmission for a slightly modded 12A? Is it the stock one? or would a TUrbo II Tranny be better since they are built stronger? I figured I will need a new fuel pump also. I will need new hoses everywhere.

Parts List
Tranny stock 12A or Turbo II ( will a turbo II bolt up to a 12A)
Fuel Pump
Non Bee hive oil cooler.
NEw hoses.
Rebuilt Carb.
I would like to have a header also might as well while install one while the engine is out.

If you guys have any suggestions please let me know, better yet if you OWN any of these parts I need and want to sell them let me know!

 

I dont know what would make it last longer, but I do want to say this. If that is your car in the sig, its BEAUTIFUL

 

The car stock is already very reliable. Just do the regular fluid changes and maintenance and your car should give you many years of trouble free operation.

 

if you dont have to pass emissions, then remove the rats nest, lets parts to stop functioning the better.

isaac

 

my old '83 got me through my first degree. keep the stock tranny. don't "fix" what's not broken. the oil cooler is a good reliability upgrade, but i wouldn't lose sleep over it. the exhaust is good for some more power and will not hurt reliability. other than that, keep the car happy with fluid changes don't abuse it and you should be fine.

by the way, your car does look beautiful. you should add pics to the sticky'd pic thread if you haven't already done so.

 

^that's pretty much it.

Other than that, replace anything that leaks or stuff that doesn't work right. And go easy on it; give it good warm up time in the morning.

What new hoses are you getting?

I would say:
coolant hoses
oil lines
vacuum hoses
brake hoses

 

Looks pretty good, car in sig. I would stay with the 12a tranny if only light mods, its not needed unless 2nd gen swap, any kind. It will be fine. I know what you mean about the bee hive oil heater. trochoid has a thread about changing in a 2nd gen oil cooler in his sig. Check it out. I would just keep it stock till you get out and then modify how you want. Just do normal maintenance and you should be good.

Are you the one that bought that SPd motor for 500?

 

ya dude, if its stock already, just stay up to date on maintnence... and it will be very reliable. also, dont let it over heat (noshit). i'm a freshman in college, and its a 60 mile round trip from home to the campus & back, and im a commuter student. i havent had any problems with either of my cars, one an 85 with 190K miles, and my new car a 83 with 62K miles. rx7s for that long of a drive, make the drive much better. only thing that sucks driving to college, is that your going to have door dings start appearing.... other than that thats about all i can tell ya. good choice in a college car!

 

Yup, keep it stock. I put 110 miles a day commuting in my pretty much stock 84 GSL, almost never have problems. One of the most reliable cars on the road if it's properly maintained. Good choice for a college car, where you going to college?

Ray

 

If you want it to remain reliable, leave the rats nest in place. The more you start modifying and changing what the car came with the more issues you will have.

 

Mike, this out to cover everything that you need to know.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/other-what-look-when-buying-just-after-you-purchased-your-rx-7-a-601804/
And a header will help with the fuel economy.

 

I would just give her a GOOD tune up,

Fresh hoses, new fluids, new plugs, rebuilt the carb. No need for the new oil cooler, I got the beehive on my 83 it does the job. Just replace the hoses that go to it and you will be fine.

My car has made it through 1.5 years of college so far.

You dont need a new tranny, drain out the old fluid and add in some Royal Purple, and dont forget the Rear diff fluid too!

Where you going to school at?

 

Replacing old brittle vacuum hoses is my #1 recomendation. If you don't have to pass emmisions then reduce complexity and remove the stuff.

Replace your belts. Run dual belts on the WP or carry a spare belt and tools.

Flush the cooling system and install a new thermostat. Push on the radiator and check for rot. Replace if required.

Ignition tuneup and upgrade. Like MSD & 3 coil setup. Taylor ignition wires are pretty good. New plugs and a second set for the glovebox. Another ignitor for the glove box too.

Check the operation of your Oil Metering Pump. At the minimum check to see if the linkage is connected and that lines look full of oil.

Start using sea foam on occasion.

 

For college student, "RELIABILITY" and "GAS SAVER" should go hand on hand.

 

Removal of the rats nest makes reliablity better IMHO, no more vacuum leaks.
Do a 2GCDFIS upgrade, worth 5 mpg and smoother operation in my case.
Rebuild your calipers, its easy, buy a brake hone off eBay for a few $, kits are about $4 @
Use only NGK or ND plugs, change your fuel filter, I recommend the Carter fuel pump with Holley regulator, inspect your fuel pump wires where they go through the floor from the fuel pump.
Inspect your ground wires.
Keep the clutch fan.
Use quality oils
Use the 2nd gen FMOC it lowered my underhood temps considerably.

Then enjoy driving your reliable 12a as much as you can

 

Listen to the Aussie, he drives his car way too much to be wrong. lol

 

Yeah Im the one that bought it haha. It looks like a real good block. Yes that car in the sig is my babyi got her repainted last summer. I love black fbs they great. Don't get me wrong my car has been excellent. It has been extremely reliable I just wanted to know if there was a way to make it a little better. I give her good warm ups in the morning about 5 minutes of idling maybe its too much but she is ready to go after that.
Also what would you guys suggest for a new clutch? I might as well replace the clutch while the engine is out.


btw- if you check my sig my car is very basic. It has no emissions not even a catalytic converter it has no AC or Power steering. It has an electric fan so no clutch fan. The only thing that runs off the engine belt is the alternator and I can't remove that haha.

 

Quote from Aussie-Do a 2GCDFIS upgrade, worth 5 mpg and smoother operation in my case.
That's a pretty big claim there.

 

buy a 49cc moped. from what ive heard you dont have to register it or insure it. if you live near campus use it to drive back and forth from school to your apartment/dorm. youll only have to fill up once a semester thats my plan. the 7 loves gas too much.

 

RX-7 FB is ultra-reliable if you don't abuse it. I've had one or more for 24 years.

These are the parts that I've fixed or replaced on the 3 I have now:

1-new radiators in all 3
2-new starters in all 3
3-new clutch in 1
4-new heater hoses in the two with beehives
5-new clutch master, slave cyls and hose in all 3
6-new driveshaft/ujoints in 1
7-rebuilt transmission in 1
8-one shutter valve failed (not replaced, plugged a hole in air cleaner)

Replace the heater hose that goes under the beehive! It rots from stray oil and when it bursts all the coolant dumps and your engine overheats quickly. get the $42 hose from mazdatrix, it's almost easy to put on. You can use a standard 5/8 heater hose in a pinch, but it's very difficult to install.

Use a pre-lube additive, like MMO, Idemitsu or 2-cycle in every tankful.

I replaced a transmission when it started making noticeable gear whine. I think that it got a bad dose of condensate on the tail bearing when it was stored for a couple years. So I put in a rebuilt SE transmission which gave me a higher 5th gear which I really appreciate. Now I use Redline in all xmissions and differentials.

If you're short on time change the oil filter: almost as good as an oil change, can be done in 5 minutes, and is neat if you punch a hole in the top of the old filter to admit air and allow it to drain for 5 minutes before loosening.

You might want to change all the vacuum hoses now before you get a running problem. A set of hoses is pretty cheap, and a lot of people seem to post about erratic and intermittent idle, loss of power, etc., that ends up being vacuum lines.

I've never needed an engine overhaul, lost an apex seal, etc.

 

The OEM clutch I put in with the transmission has been troublefree and smooth, but the aftermarket I put in the other car would hang up on the splines and was a pain until broken in. It's still not smooth.

 

Did you use some white grease on the splines of the trans?