(OTHER) What to look for when buying or just after you purchased your RX-7

 
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Old 12-01-06, 11:48 PM
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Talking (OTHER) What to look for when buying or just after you purchased your RX-7

Almost every week we get new members that have bought their 1st Rx7. Then the questions start. What mods should I do? What things should I do first? my suggestions are always the same. Make sure the car is in safe running/driving order. So I thought I would put together a check list of things that should be checked and done BEFORE you start thinking about modding.

1). Full safety check:
Pull all wheels off and inspect the brake system.
Inspect brake lining for wear. Brake rotors for excessive grooves. Brake drums, if equipped for grooves. Any sign of brake fluid leakage from the following areas.
Brake hoses. Brake calipers. Wheel cylinders, if equipped.
Brake fluid if dark should be flushed. Recommend every 30k or 2 years for service.
2). Inspect tires for abnormal wear. Inside or outside wear indicating steering/suspension needs. If below 2/32" they are unsafe and need immediate replacement.
3). Suspension/steering components.
Check idler arm for excessive up and down movement indicating worn bushings.
Ball joint play, tie rod play. Inspect both for torn/missing boots. Would require that they are replaced soon.
Excessive steering wheel play indicating worn steering box or in need of adjustment.
Inspect struts/shocks for signs of leakage.
Perform bounce test on front and rear of vehicle. Excessive bounce or sway of car will indicate need for replacement of worn shocks/struts.
Fluids.
Recommend all fluids be serviced if their are no current supporting documents to show last service. This includes the following.
Engine oil and filter. Coolant, recommend T-stat changed same time. Brake fluid.
Transmission fluid. Rear end fluid.
Inspect belts and hoses for wear. Cracked or frayed belts need replacement.
Check belts for tightness, adjust as needed.
Inspect Coolant/heater hoses for wear. Brittle or hard hoses, swollen hoses indicate need for replacement.
Inspect for any fluid leaks.
IE: Coolant leaks. Could indicate loose hose clamps on hoses. Leaking hoses.
Leaking radiator. Leaking water pump. leaking coolant level sensor. Inspect radiator cap seal for tears.
Oil leaks. Those equipped with beehive cooler. O'ring leakage.
Those equipped with FMOC. Leaking hoses,oil cooler, sealing washers.
Oil leakage between housings. IE: Dowel pin leak
Fuel leaks. Inspect fuel hoses. Check clamps for tightness.
Carb'd vehicles. Inspect carb area for leakage between gaskets.
Basic tune-up items;
Pull plugs and inspect for wear, replace as needed.
Inspect Dist cap and rotor for wear, replace as needed.
Inspect ignition wires. Replace as needed.
Inspect Air filter for cleanliness. Service/replace as needed.
Replace fuel filter as needed.
Inspect wiper blades/washer fluid. Service as needed. Verify operation of wipers. Check heater to verify defrost works.
Check all lights for operation. Correct/replace as needed.
Inspect spare tire to ensure it is inflated and good.
Verify jack and tire iron are present and in good working order.
Once all these things are done then you are not only ready to enjoy your safe vehicle but have earned the right to start asking about modifying your new 7.
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Old 12-02-06, 11:18 AM
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Great post. I bought mine about 6 weeks ago and have done everything except steering. Have ordered inner and outer tie rod ends, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, idler arm bushings, ball joints, end link bushing set, sway bar bushings. have I forgot anything for the front? I have replaced the carburator (new Nikki), clutch slave cylynder, master brake cylynder, shoes and pads, of course oil and filter, spark plugs and wires, distubuter cap and rotor, new Tokico struts and shocks and all rubber hoses under the hood, door seals, window channels. Now i am anxious to finish the front end because it runs great. Idles at 750 and NO vibration to speak of. Makes you think its not running at all. Inside looks good. Its an 81 and in my state it qualify's for antique plates. I love it. I think this post should be a sticky. Thanks
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Old 12-02-06, 04:46 PM
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Here's what I'd like to add: Clean everything! A clean engine bay will help when you have to work on the car, and when you are trying to identify a problem. Also, my own personal opinion: If you have to fix it, try to find a way to improve it while you're at it (old wiring, etc.). And if it doesn't have to be there, then get rid of it (if its not there, it can't break, right?).

Last edited by Rx-7Doctor; 03-24-07 at 10:50 PM. Reason: clean up for FAQ
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Old 12-02-06, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Theknifemaker
Great post. I bought mine about 6 weeks ago and have done everything except steering. Have ordered inner and outer tie rod ends, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, idler arm bushings, ball joints, end link bushing set, sway bar bushings. have I forgot anything for the front? I have replaced the carburator (new Nikki), clutch slave cylynder, master brake cylynder, shoes and pads, of course oil and filter, spark plugs and wires, distubuter cap and rotor, new Tokico struts and shocks and all rubber hoses under the hood, door seals, window channels. Now i am anxious to finish the front end because it runs great. Idles at 750 and NO vibration to speak of. Makes you think its not running at all. Inside looks good. Its an 81 and in my state it qualify's for antique plates. I love it. I think this post should be a sticky. Thanks
The only item I see missing is the adjusting nut that connects the inner and outer tie rods. I would also replace the springs while you are doing the shocks. Even if the body has low mileage, the springs will sag out over time. If you want to keep the stock ride height and feel, go oem. For a bit stiffer and better handling go aftermarket for the springs.


Anytime one buys a 7 with an unkown maintinance history, the 1st thing they should do is the full 30/60k maintinance listed in the owners manual and FSM, along with the rest of Doc's recommendations.
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Old 12-02-06, 06:38 PM
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Although the tire wear is mentioned I would add uneven tire wear can indicate an alignment issue, toe in toe out, caster, camber as well as worn linkages.

I would add the fuel filter is an immediate and cheap item in need of replacement and often.

Learn to search on the RX7club.com

Inspect fuel and brakes hard lines for severe rust damage especially in the northern states.

Inspect fuel tank, especially the top for rust holes, fuel pump wiring where it goes through body for damage and rust.

Park brakes can be easily repaired also, I recomment doing your own brake caliper rebuild, it is very simple.

If your car stutters at constant throttle or makes a wierd noise at this time your shutter valve needs repair, removal depending upon local laws.

Secure your battery properly, then replace ground wires and clean terminals.

Great thread Doc.
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Old 12-02-06, 06:53 PM
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Talking

Thank you everyone for your input, it is very much appreciated.
Even though people may have owned cars for a long time or worked on them. I have found that some may not know what a 30k or 60k maintenance service is all about. I recommend that everyone read the factory owners manual to familiarize themselves with the services.

Last edited by Rx-7Doctor; 03-24-07 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 12-02-06, 08:25 PM
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There's lots of good "getting your car running well" material in this thread from the FAQ about restoring a sitting car. Since cars go to hell in a handbasket when they sit, I included a lot of info in there:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...postid=2385473

Jon

Edit: and in Pele's thread on solving starting issues there's a lot of good info as well:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=162062

Last edited by vipernicus42; 12-02-06 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 12-02-06, 11:59 PM
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I still suggest that unless you have documentation on purchase that sez they have been changed recently, ALL the soft stuff, especially: cooling hoses, belts, etc. should be replaced immediately. Likewise ALL fluids (especially brake fluid since most folks seem to think that stuff is good forever). That way you KNOW what your starting with...
And newbies - FMOC means "front mounted oil cooler" in 7-speak had to think about that one myself...
Thanks 'doc - good write up
Stu Aull
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