Project 83 S restoration/T2 Swap update
05-02-09, 08:58 AM
#176
Hey guys, I'll try to get some pics this weekend, I'll be going to the OCC meet in a few hours with this car. I spent all week installing my IMSA style airdam and polishing and waxing the car only to have it get rained on last night LOL, oh well. The car is going well, it made the hour trip to my GFs house beautifully, goes much smoother than my other FB (which is strange as the suspension is now basically identical)
As for my I/C setup I'm running a small i/c with 2.25" inlet/outlets and went with 2.25" piping as well. I don't really plan on running much more than stock boost levels, so it works nicely for me, spools really fast too! The whole setup is pretty straightforward, just needed a 2-2.25" recuder for the compressor output and another 2.25-2.75" reducer going from the piping to the greddy throttle body elbow. A few of the cheap ebay couplers I got have developed some small cracks (not leaking as of yet) and I plan on replacing those, otherwise its pretty solid. Pogi: if you are going to run the stock turbo you might want to consider a slightly smaller pipe, if its too big it will cause lag (at least in theory) just my $.02
Sean
As for my I/C setup I'm running a small i/c with 2.25" inlet/outlets and went with 2.25" piping as well. I don't really plan on running much more than stock boost levels, so it works nicely for me, spools really fast too! The whole setup is pretty straightforward, just needed a 2-2.25" recuder for the compressor output and another 2.25-2.75" reducer going from the piping to the greddy throttle body elbow. A few of the cheap ebay couplers I got have developed some small cracks (not leaking as of yet) and I plan on replacing those, otherwise its pretty solid. Pogi: if you are going to run the stock turbo you might want to consider a slightly smaller pipe, if its too big it will cause lag (at least in theory) just my $.02
Sean
05-02-09, 09:06 AM
#177
Just scanned through the last page of this thread and figured I would throw in a few more updates on some problems the car was having. Turns out Optima batteries are still just fine, I just failed to wire the S5 alternator correctly and it was causing a large draw that would kill the battery in about a week. Corrected that (and had to buy another damn battery becausue the old one had been drawn completely dead too many times and wouldn't take a charge) and now it works fine.
I made a TPS check light out of some LED's and set the TPs (it was waaaaay off) and now the car is much smoother. Still hunts a little bit while warming up, but i've never seen a FC that didn't do that at least a little.
Last month I ended up removing the panhard bar, coil overs and camber plates. I know I know, some woudl consider that sacrelige, but I'll hold on to them for a future project where they will definatly be used, so they aren't going to waste
While I was at it I re-did the fuel lines with aluminum fuel line from summit, much cleaner than the ones I had made for the car originally. Also had to make some adjustments to the exhaust to clear the watts link now that it is back on the car.
Guess I was busy, anyway, just wanted to let everyone know where the car stands....
I made a TPS check light out of some LED's and set the TPs (it was waaaaay off) and now the car is much smoother. Still hunts a little bit while warming up, but i've never seen a FC that didn't do that at least a little.
Last month I ended up removing the panhard bar, coil overs and camber plates. I know I know, some woudl consider that sacrelige, but I'll hold on to them for a future project where they will definatly be used, so they aren't going to waste
While I was at it I re-did the fuel lines with aluminum fuel line from summit, much cleaner than the ones I had made for the car originally. Also had to make some adjustments to the exhaust to clear the watts link now that it is back on the car. Guess I was busy, anyway, just wanted to let everyone know where the car stands....
05-04-09, 08:02 AM
#179
I took some pics this weekend only to find my home computer has died, so I can't get the pics off of it just yet... ugh.
As for the reason, basically it just endedup being overkill for street use. The panhard/tri link was incredibly noisy and again for street use not much of an improvment. I've kept all the parts for a track car build I've got in the back of my head... I've been wanting to get into racing for a while...
Again I just want to add that remvoing those parts has nothing to do with the quality, they are all really good, just too much for what I wanted.
Pics to follow...
As for the reason, basically it just endedup being overkill for street use. The panhard/tri link was incredibly noisy and again for street use not much of an improvment. I've kept all the parts for a track car build I've got in the back of my head... I've been wanting to get into racing for a while...
Again I just want to add that remvoing those parts has nothing to do with the quality, they are all really good, just too much for what I wanted.
Pics to follow...
05-05-09, 06:00 PM
#184
4x110 SUCKS!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Toccoa, GA
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Super clean
Dude your car is Freakin beautiful, and soon to be turbo, sex on wheels!!!!. Love the color but hate the maintenance. I've only owned one black car, spend hours detailing and they get dusty so quick, but boy does black look good.
Hope to see that bad boy @ Road Atlanta this year!!!!!!
Hope to see that bad boy @ Road Atlanta this year!!!!!!
05-06-09, 07:52 AM
#185
Thanks! I agree with you on black, looks great with a fresh coat of wax, but gets dirty sooo fast lol, oh well. Loving the turbo power too, its a totally different car from my other FB (which is still 12a) thats for sure. I'd love to go to Zoomfest this year, still trying to figure out if I'll be able to though.
Dave, yea it moves that's for sure, I'll have to take it to the strip sometime and see what it can do.
Dave, yea it moves that's for sure, I'll have to take it to the strip sometime and see what it can do.
10-21-09, 05:17 PM
#186
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I need to do similar rust repair to what you had to do at the beginning of your thread. I was wondering how you insure that the new steel and welds on the inside of the frame are properly protected and wont rust on you done the road. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
10-21-09, 10:03 PM
#187
I drilled several access holes on the inside of the car above the repairs I had made and sprayed as much primer in there as I could. It's not perfect for sure, but I could see through the holes and I got the whole area covered. The real problem is that you can't really get in there to clean the welds and new metal first.
Another option, one I'll try out on my next resto, is to coat the pices of metal with weld-able primer. That way the new metal is coated, you just need to worry about sealing the welds. I've gone back and double checked all those areas a few times and so far its all holding up quite well, as long as you get some good primer on there you should be set for a while.
Good luck.
Another option, one I'll try out on my next resto, is to coat the pices of metal with weld-able primer. That way the new metal is coated, you just need to worry about sealing the welds. I've gone back and double checked all those areas a few times and so far its all holding up quite well, as long as you get some good primer on there you should be set for a while.
Good luck.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Azevedo
Other Engine Conversions - non V-8
26
03-01-19 09:19 PM
