Um, anyone ever have the tip(terminal) break off, and not have the porcelain crack? I am useing BR8EQ14s all around and I've used NGK plugs without ever having a problem. Today is a first and it's weird as **** too. I was sitting at a light and my idle just went to **** because it was the leading plug on my rear rotor. Made my car sound like a V8 with open exhaust, something I hate. heh Anyway, I don't understand why this happened. The plug itself looks fine, It's the good chocolate color...so it wasn't running lean to make it hot. It is warm outside, but not like it'd make a difference. I run a stock setup, other than headers/presilencer/catback all aftermarket.

Anyway, here is a pic of where it broke, I'd take a pic of the actual plug itself, but the digicam misplaced itself again.



The black line is where it broke. Also, that tip that broke off is now stuck in the boot of the plug wire, god damn it to hell cuz they are NGK wires and I don't know where to go to make just one wire, I'll just have to buy a cheap *** set of wires for now.

Oh, the ignition components are only a couple months old. With probably not even 5k miles on them.

 

seen it happen b4...not to me per se....but I did buy a used set of Magnacore wires....one of them had the damn tip of a plug stuck in it...still cannot get it out...

 

Happenned to me when I first got my car. The two trailing plugs had the tips broken off and in the boots (NGK as well). You CAN get them out with the appropiate pair of nose pliers.

 

Well, just to make sure that was the only problem, I hooked up another plug and wire that works and I still have horrible idle, but acceleration is normal. I've messed with the idle screw on the carb and that doesn't do anything at all. I noticed also that now my tach is jumping, which makes me think my ignitots are bad....again. I think I'm just going to have to shell out $200 for new ones, cuz this is pissing me off.

 

I have had the tip unscrew but never break off.

People offten have used ignitors for sale in the sale section.

 

Yeah, I paid for used ones before from someone on here and they worked great...now it's possible they're dead already...

 

you could change over to the GM hei ones. $15 at autozone.

 

or go MSD and bypass them altogether. I believe the MSD box would be less $ than 2 stock ignitors.

 

Well guys, I am about ready to just sell the car and hope I can buy another RX-7. Because every week something goes out or rather what I am saying is that at the most inopportune time something happens. I was just about to have my clutch master and slave cylinders replaced, and on my way around town to run errands before I drop the car off this happens. I have no clue what the hell is going on. I usually can figure out the deal really quick and solve it myself without spending too much cash.

Anyway, I just bought two new NGK plugs for the rear rotor and the car still idles like ****, yet accelerates just as normal as it used to. I am getting spark to all four plugs and both coils seem to work fine, so I am now thinking it's NOT the ignitor and now it's just something else. Who knows, maybe my rear rotor lost it's compression, but I did that cheapo compression test and it gave out strong poofs. But if I lost compression in the rear rotor, would I still be able to sustain 90Mph while on the highway or be able to accelerate just as well as a healthy 12a? I wouldn't think so...Maybe I just need to send my $130 and carb over to Sterling for a rebuild. Of course then I'm out of a car for who knows how long and I need to get to work, which leads me to just part my car and and cut my losses. I paid $500 for it and have easilly put in another $1k in just parts to keep it roadworthy. I'll be lucky if I can part it out for $500... -_-

 

The only reason your stock ignitors should be going out is if you didn't use heat sink material between the ignitor and the dizzy.

r2 with new ignitor, use heat sink goo, and you'll be golden.

 

I use that artic silver stuff they use for CPU heatsinks, that good enough? By the way, I am starting to think they aren't going out and that it could just possibly be the damn carb, in which case I need to get into contact with Sterling for a good ol' rebuild.

 

I feel you. My 7 is also my daily driver, I paid $1k for it and have easily spent over $4k in it. One thing you have to realize is with a 20 year old car, things will have to be replaced at a certain rate, and if you can't get "on schedule", your car will be off the road. It's like buying a car in installments. the initial $500 is your initial downpayment, and then you have to pay $200 a month installments or so. Since I got my car I have replaced engine (rebuilt and streetported), tranny, radiator, oil cooler, brake master cylinder, coils, fuel pump, carb, battery, clutch (3 times), brake rotors and pads, and some other misc stuff. Some of it are upgrades, but most of them were maintenance to keep the car on the road.

 

Yes, I do realize that with an old car **** just happens, but my god this **** happens and the worst possible times. Everytime I HAVE money something on the car that HAS to be replaced or worked on goes out and requires that huge sum of money you've saved up. I'm trying to save up to get some body work done, but everytime I get $200 closer, My car requires $200 to keep it driving. And with 161k on the clock, I don't know how long this poor engine has left on it.

 

Pick up a core Carb and have it built, That way you can run while waiting on it.


I fully know your feeling with these cars. I replaced by blown motor and was real happy only to fine the car would not roll back on a hill, I thought that is real strange, Front calipers were stuck, Next the slave cylinder. And if it is not something major then the tire is flat.

But the car is payed for, I have AAA, and can do all the work my self, and insurance is so low that I can keep it as a second car.



My buddy had a Mustang II that we could drive 2 days a month, the rest of the month was spent saving to fix it for the next 2 day drive.

 

Who is selling a 12a stock nikki carb cheap? Not too many people and those who usually want to sell one they sell them for too much.

 

I have a nikki carb just rebuilt by rx7carl that will be available for sale soon. It is, however, not stock. Primary venturi bored out to .980 inches. Monster fuel jets (that can be easily changed) 160s for primaries, 190s for secondaries. Mechanical secondaries (that's reversible too).

 

Well, I dunno...My engine is stock and I have no clue how to change jets on a carb. However I know I could learn.

 

They are $20 at the local pull a part. Shipping is the high cost I would think. I have seen a few of the Stearling cabs go in the for sale section.

 

that's not hard, especially with the carb off the engine. 160s are the stock size for secondaries, so you would just have to get the stock ones for primaries (90s I believe), that would be about $5.

PM me if interested.

 

There are no junked sevens here at all, I've called before, it ain't happening here in the midwest. All junk sevens are sitting in an abandoned farm field or some hick's front yard.

 

Sterling has core's for 50 bucks. It's on his website.

www.pbandjracing.com

 

****, I just emailed him and I didn't see that list...Damn am I an asshat. >_<

 

that's rx7carl's website.

Here's Sterlings:

http://www.sterlingmetalworks.com/racing_index.html

 

I went back outside to check the damn thing out and I took of the aircleaner box and sprayed the carb down with carb cleaner. Thing idled fine at about 900 RPMs...so I took it for a short drive about 2 -3 miles and in the short period of time my idle at stops was already acting up at shaking my car to pieces at 400-500 RPMs, I let the car sit once like that and it took a couple minutes to kill it and then I restarted back up like it was brand new, but still idles like ****.