I am nearly complete with a power window relay conversion project and thought I'd share. I used several sources for reference...most notably this site:

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars...r_windows.html

If I could find a source for the connectors that Mazda uses between the front harness and the handbrake harness (under the driver's seat) I could make this thing plug and play. But as it is, if I were to produce these a user would need to make 10 wire-to wire splices. But then, if they wanted to remove it for some reason (maybe a relay goes bad), they'd just have to disconnect connectors HM/BF and HF/BM and connect HM to HF (see attached schematic) and the switches would control the windows directly again.

I haven't tested it yet...I'll probably test it in the donor SE since it'll be a long time before I get the car back from paint and start putting it back together (I STILL haven't been able to get it in because they are so busy doing collision work because of our crappy weather this winter).

I got all my electrical supplies from Waytek ( http://www.waytekwire.com/ ). They carry some pretty coole automotive wiring supplies, and have very quick service. The only quirk is that they require each line item to total at least $5...so I had to buy more than I needed for some stuff.

I still need to find a piece of aluminum to make a cover, and I'd like to find a shorter box...this one is 6" x 4" x 2" and I'd like to find one that's 1.25" or 1.5" high. Otherwise it's nearly complete.

Rich

 

nevermind.

i want to add power windows to my SA from my GSL, id probably buy a premade set up from you.

 

+1 to that.

 

OK, here is my version of this mod. I don't have a fancy box, but I did use the wiring harness from a spare 82 RX-7, to make it directly plug and play. For now I've tucked the relay cluster behind the dash.

I wanted to avoid soldering and ended up with more doubled-up connections than I would have liked. This is my first attempt at anything electrical.

I've attached a picture I took of the monstrosity when I was done.

 

Very nice. My only question is, why would you tuck it under the dash, when the wiring from the switches runs under the driver's seat?

Rich

 

rich-- whats your status?

 

I did this 2 years ago and it makes a huge difference on the speed of the windows. Well worth the time and few dollars needed to pull it off.

 

Well it made no difference to the speed of the windows in my case. My windows are all jammed up, I need to figure out why they are so slow... the drivers window comes out of its track every time too. Passenger is lined up ok but it gets stuck sometimes.

64mgb, if you look at the '82 wiring diagram, the harness for the power window switches goes forward of the switches, up behind the stereo and into the dash. The X-11 connector is to the left of the center console behind the stereo.

 

Ah...got it

Rich

 

Same old same old...but I did finally get the car in for paint a couple of weeks ago. They thought they'd probably have it until sometime in June, so then I will be able to start putting it back together. It'll probably take the rest of the summer for that. That's when I'll be able to finish my power window conversion. I did swap the manual regulators into the SE parts car, then completely restored the power regulators, as well as the motors...took them completely apart, cleaned them up, cleaned the commutators, lubed them up, and put them back together. They work like a champ, at least on the garage floor I thought about doing a how-to on restoring the motors, but didn't figure there would be that much interest.

Rich

 

I have a 1982 Rx7 GX, now I just purchased this and will need to take a look at all the interior elec.... is this model even supposed to have power windows? and the pass side went down a bit, and wont go up or down now.. and the drivers side will only go down about 4 inches and goes back up, but no further down... There is alot of random switches and wiring in this car, like hook ups for more switches too..(stock lookin) any help would be appreciated, with the windows that is...

 

ill be putting the power windows from my wrecked GSL in my SA in the future. now i need to figure out how to wire one of these up.

 

I strongly urge to use relay sockets, instead of the spade connectors. That way you can easily replace the relay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/10-Pack-of-12V-3...QQcmdZViewItem

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-PA...spagenameZWDVW

If you are so inclined, you can get the sockets and the crimp pins for the the sockets at Newark.com

 

I actually thought about using connectors, but I couldn't find any... The brand of relays I used, Narva, don't produce them so I gave up looking for them after I couldn't find them at the auto parts store. I didn't know they made such a connector.

Soopitup, maybe your switches need cleaning. After 25 years of switching high current they die, thats why we do this mod

 

Those automotive relays should be a standard size and pinout.

 

I agree about using sockets. I got all my stuff from Waytek http://www.waytekwire.com/

Rich

 

Could you do that how-to on restoring the motors? I was thinking of doing this because my motors are tired.

 

More than likely, what's tired are the switches...they get corroded due to the high current they are carrying which results in arcing. I also took those apart and cleaned them up real good and put some dielectric grease on the contacts. But I'll try to put something together about the motors. One thing I can tell you now is to be VERY careful pulling the armature out of the gear casing, because there is a VERY small ball on the end of it...don't lose it! If there is grease in there it will probably want to stick in grease, so make sure you look for it. There is also one on the other end of the armature, but it's much larger and easier to keep track of.

Rich

 

+1 on the how-to's. My windows are slow AND don't go up or down straight. They get a little wonky near the top as they go up. Would be greatly appreciated.

 

Here's the little ball on the end of the armature that I was referring to.

Rich

 

Thanks for the pic.

so you pulled the 3 screws separating the motor from the gear housing. and you are able to remove the armature, clean it all up, regrease and assemble without loosing the two *****. Is that about it or is there anything I missed.

I plan on doing this as well as the relay conversion.

 

That's pretty much it, but I also removed the cover from the gear box and cleaned up the gear and re-greased it. The armature has a neat device for making it easier to slide the armature in past the brushes...you'll see what I mean when you get it apart. I actually unsoldered the wires also so I could do a thorough job of cleaning.

Rich

 

Also, when removing the motor from the regulator, make sure it's in the position that results in the round tension spring having the least tension...I don't remember if it's full up or full down, but should be pretty obvious. I actually took this spring off and cleaned and regreased it on mine.

Rich