knowing how the 4x110mm cars use bolt style lugs would it be possible for us to have our rotors drilled and tapped for 4x114.3mm and just use the same style bolt lugs for a "cheap" solution to get the "better" lug pattern? just a thought
most machine shops could drill the 4x113.4 and tap it for prolly around $30 per rotor, might be a better idea than adapters and a hell of alot easier than swapping to gsl-se suspension/rearend etc.(not to mention gsl-se **** is getting hard to come by these days)
post away my brethren
-greg

edit, for the non GSL guys the rear drums could be drilled and tapped with the same concept...

 

You can always get replacement GSL-SE parts.

For 84/85 cars, you can just get the rotors, wheel bearings, and brake calipers for the GSL-SE. Get loaded calipers and they'll include the pads, sliders, bracket and all hardware.

For the rears on a GSL axle, you can use the axle housing and just get new axles machined by Moser engineering. (Search) Once you have the correct axle, the brake hardware should go on.

 

Good idea gregs... Some machine shops will not mess with that stuff though, liability issues....

 

The only problem with that idea is that the new holes would have to be done with extreme precision. If the new holes are off center even a tiny bit, it's going to jack everything up.


Hey Pele, where do you get "loaded" calipers? Can I order them at my local auto parts store?

 

Machinists are very precise... I have a machinist buddy and I ask him to do something simple and he makes sure it is to the 1000th...

 

you couldnt have said it better RRtec. there are a reason noone in the world can do what machinists can do... lol

 

yes that could work, but thats more money and alot more time and basiaclly defeats the purpouse of my original idea

 

Panasports work pretty good too for a solution...

 

haha, but most people don't have their dads pay for most of them

 

yeah to bad panasports are like 1500 bucks PLUS rubber...

the cost of machine work 120-$400 MAX, given you get ripped off, plus a nice set of 16-17" wheels with nice rubber = 600-700 so your in 720-1100 MAX for everything... yeah and some people want a more modern looking wheel than the panasports, given panas are pure sex, i wouldnt want them on my car...

 

i have panasports....but they were on the car when i bought it, aslo with tokico sus. and RB exhaust...for 900 bucks...so i dont have this problem

 

I think you'll have to rethink your price gregs. Not only do you have to get the new rotors machined, but you have to get the holes welded up before you machine them. And the holes are too smal to just weld up, so you'd have to enlarge them and put them at a 45 degree angle, then weld them. Then you'd have to have the machinist reface the rotor so it's flat (flatten out the welds). Then you have to get them machined. The rear axles will have to be done the same way, PLUS the rotors.

Then you get into the territory on what did all that heat from welding do to the rotor? Did it make it brittle? Most likely, yes.

I think grand total would be more like 700-800, possibly higher depending on welders fees and your machinists rate. I'd rather buy the parts and stick em on myself.

BTW, I am a machinist.

 

i see, but please explain the point of having the old holes welded, i see none..

 

The CNC machine I use at work is precise to the 4th decimal place (1/10000th of an inch. Yes, a ten-thousandth.)

The aluminium blocks I feed it usually have more error in them than the machine will. Hence, when something comes out fucked up, there's nothing else to blame but me.

Yep. Parts America (Advance/Cragen/Shucks/whatever they have up there.), PepBoys, Autozone, etc SHOULD carry them. Carquest definately will...

 

what about just re-drilling some other wheels to fit 4x110?

 

There are more options that are most likely cheaper. You could special order a set of wheels WITHOUT the holes drilled in them already. I'm sure most wheel companies could do this, but I could be wrong.

Another thing you can do is use the Ford 4x108 pattern found on most fords with 4 bolt wheels (focus, escort, that kinda thing). This spacing of the holes is close enough that ovaling out the holes is not going to affect anything greatly. You only need to oval the hole out 1mm toward the outside of the wheel. With some careful use of a die grinder and a carbide bit, this is an easy job. If you can port an engine, you can do this.