Porting Myself
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Porting Myself
How easy is it to streetport my 12a if i have the template. I was thinking it would be a hell of alot cheaper if i do it myself.
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I saw the title "Porting Myself" and thought damn wont that hurt? See what happens when your mind is in the gutter?
How difficult can it be if your can do it with a dremel? Just gotta have a steady hand and work slow i guess. But all this coming from someone who has not done this either. Let us know how it goes i will probably be following in your footsteps of "Porting Myself" LOL
How difficult can it be if your can do it with a dremel? Just gotta have a steady hand and work slow i guess. But all this coming from someone who has not done this either. Let us know how it goes i will probably be following in your footsteps of "Porting Myself" LOL
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I was wondering about this too, and had asked about it in another thread (unrelated topic, if i'm not mistaken, so searching probably won't do any good). Basically, from what I understand, the actual porting itself is fairly straightforward, especially if you have experience working with metal and a dremel. The tough part, however, is the associated prep work. Either you have to remove the engine from the car, and disassemble it, or you can do it while the engine is still in the car, but you have to be very careful to make sure the aluminum shavings you create don't end up inside the peripheral housing. I was thinking about stuffing rags (attached to something so I'd be able to get them out again) inside the port to fill up the chamber, and combining that with the suction from a shop vac near the work area as a possibility for doing an in-the-car port job, but I think I'd get a second opinion first.
#6
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Originally posted by 357
or you can do it while the engine is still in the car, but you have to be very careful to make sure the aluminum shavings you create don't end up inside the peripheral housing. I was thinking about stuffing rags (attached to something so I'd be able to get them out again) inside the port to fill up the chamber, and combining that with the suction from a shop vac near the work area as a possibility for doing an in-the-car port job, but I think I'd get a second opinion first.
or you can do it while the engine is still in the car, but you have to be very careful to make sure the aluminum shavings you create don't end up inside the peripheral housing. I was thinking about stuffing rags (attached to something so I'd be able to get them out again) inside the port to fill up the chamber, and combining that with the suction from a shop vac near the work area as a possibility for doing an in-the-car port job, but I think I'd get a second opinion first.
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#11
You can port match the intakes that way, since in some SCCA classes (like Street Prepared) only 1" inward is as far as you can go anyways.
Kinda ghetto way to do it, but it does work.
As far as actual street porting, cannot be done correctly without disassembling the engine.
Kinda ghetto way to do it, but it does work.
As far as actual street porting, cannot be done correctly without disassembling the engine.
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yeah man, i pulled mine apart this jan and ported it. i also converted to a 4port 13B, though. when you sketch ouit the template on the side housings, a little helpful advice......put about three layers of duct tape around the area to be ported as to protect the surface if the die grinder walks on you. i practiced on one housing....saw how simple it was and that was it......i still used the tape, though, and only hit it once. extra procaution
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Yeah, the actual porting should be easy enough, street port is only a mild or extend to us aussies I think, doesnt involve a bridge of any kind does it?
yeah mark the templete, and make sure you blend the surfaces in smoothly (to the original port) and make sure all the corresponding ports in each rotor are excactly the same, or it will lose power, run rough, and be harder to tune.
yeah mark the templete, and make sure you blend the surfaces in smoothly (to the original port) and make sure all the corresponding ports in each rotor are excactly the same, or it will lose power, run rough, and be harder to tune.
#17
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Originally posted by spoolin
yeah man, i pulled mine apart this jan and ported it. i also converted to a 4port 13B, though. when you sketch ouit the template on the side housings, a little helpful advice......put about three layers of duct tape around the area to be ported as to protect the surface if the die grinder walks on you. i practiced on one housing....saw how simple it was and that was it......i still used the tape, though, and only hit it once. extra procaution
yeah man, i pulled mine apart this jan and ported it. i also converted to a 4port 13B, though. when you sketch ouit the template on the side housings, a little helpful advice......put about three layers of duct tape around the area to be ported as to protect the surface if the die grinder walks on you. i practiced on one housing....saw how simple it was and that was it......i still used the tape, though, and only hit it once. extra procaution
~T.J.
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