points conversion q's
10-28-01, 11:15 AM
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points conversion q's
Ok, I'm in the middle, well the very beginning of doing an electronic ign conversion. I'm using information found here : http://www.mazspeed.com/ignitionswap.htm .. It isn't very clear, it says
"On the front of the left strut tower near the fuse links are four (4) ballast resistors. These must all be removed. Two of the resistors are fed battery power through a black/white (BW) wire. Note these and splice the black/white wire into the wire on the other side of the resistor. Please solder and insulate with heat shrink tubing. Splice connectors will not provide a long-lasting connection. "
Then it says
"One of the BW wires will be spliced to a yellow (Y) wire that goes to the positive side of the trailing coil. The other BW wire will be spliced to a yellow/black (YB) wire that goes to the positive side of the leading coil."
Ok.. there are 3 resistors, one large one and two smaller ones. The article refers to a BW wire.. there is only one of these!! Not 3 like the article says
I can't go any farther, has anyone done this or has a better writeup?
I'm going to go take a picture of what I have..
"On the front of the left strut tower near the fuse links are four (4) ballast resistors. These must all be removed. Two of the resistors are fed battery power through a black/white (BW) wire. Note these and splice the black/white wire into the wire on the other side of the resistor. Please solder and insulate with heat shrink tubing. Splice connectors will not provide a long-lasting connection. "
Then it says
"One of the BW wires will be spliced to a yellow (Y) wire that goes to the positive side of the trailing coil. The other BW wire will be spliced to a yellow/black (YB) wire that goes to the positive side of the leading coil."
Ok.. there are 3 resistors, one large one and two smaller ones. The article refers to a BW wire.. there is only one of these!! Not 3 like the article says
I can't go any farther, has anyone done this or has a better writeup?
I'm going to go take a picture of what I have..
10-28-01, 11:25 AM
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The middle resistor has the BW wire going to it on the left, or bottom, depending on how you view it.. the rest are yellow..
The top resistor has a blue wire going to it..
I have to convert to electronic ign before I can convert to DLIDFIS please help me!!
10-28-01, 11:40 AM
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ok i THINK i have a VERY good drawing of what you need to do, i did this to a friends 79 in a wendys parking lot, that dam car ran better than and 1st gen i have ever seen... it REALLY pissed me off 
. i need to look in some rx7 files but ill post it on my image station page and put a link up for you.
. i need to look in some rx7 files but ill post it on my image station page and put a link up for you.
10-28-01, 06:50 PM
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here you go
well you have to have elct ing. to do the dlf... so i would say yes
heres a link to that thing i have
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...6.jpg.orig.jpg
heres a link to that thing i have
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...6.jpg.orig.jpg
10-28-01, 07:53 PM
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That picture is pretty much how I figured it to be, when I connected the wires from the top resistor the trailing coil wouldn't fire. I ended up connecting both wires from the resistors to the one BW wire. Everything seems to be ok now. I haven't started the car yet because the carb is off having some work done. It does spark though. Spark isn't blue like it should be but there are a couple things that I know are affecting it: Original coils (low voltage) running at 12v.
Second the coils are only seeing 11.5 volts. It looks like I have a weak ign switch because other accessories (wipers etc) have the same voltage.
Thanks for the info!
Second the coils are only seeing 11.5 volts. It looks like I have a weak ign switch because other accessories (wipers etc) have the same voltage.
Thanks for the info!
10-29-01, 02:10 PM
#7
If I were you, I'd loose all those ballast resistors and ring terminal wires. Just rip it all out of there. It is extremely easy to find which wires are the ones to keep.
Do this:
Find the wire that is on when the key is switched to the ON position.
Find the wire that is on when the key is in the START position.
Find the tach signal wire.
There is one more wire that is on when the key is in the START position, but it goes down to the starter solenoid. Don't disturb this wire.
You should go and get yourself a wiring harness from an '81-'85 model and hook it up. That's what I did on my pre '81 rotaries before I went to DLIDFIS.
This harness is like a big Y adapter so you only have 3 wires going from the igntiors to the coils, instead of 4 like what BadAssRX-7's pic shows. I built a harness for my friend that only used 3 wires. It was pretty cool. Oh, and don't forget to hook up that little condensor mounted below the two diaphram vacuum advancers. It hooks to the B and + terminals of the ignitors and coils.
Hook the the two wires that are on when the key is ON and in START. Mazda seperated them in order to give the points full 12V while cranking the engine, but as soon as it went into the ON posistion, the 12V would go through some ballast resistors and be dropped down to 6-9 volts to prevent wear on the points. What you need to do is hook these two wires together so the coils/ignitors get 12V in the START and ON position.
After you've found all the wires listed above, hook them up correctly and measure the voltage on all terminals of all connectors (B, C, +, - of ignitors and coils). Then see if it will run. Once its running right, go ahead and clip the old points wires or remove them from the connectors all together.
I've done everything I've listed above to my vehicles at some point. There is a learning curve involved here, but highly doable by the average joe. Heh, you spent the time and energy learning how to drive, didn't you? Now learn how to make your car have more power through better ignition.
I hope I answered more questions than I caused.
Do this:
Find the wire that is on when the key is switched to the ON position.
Find the wire that is on when the key is in the START position.
Find the tach signal wire.
There is one more wire that is on when the key is in the START position, but it goes down to the starter solenoid. Don't disturb this wire.
You should go and get yourself a wiring harness from an '81-'85 model and hook it up. That's what I did on my pre '81 rotaries before I went to DLIDFIS.
This harness is like a big Y adapter so you only have 3 wires going from the igntiors to the coils, instead of 4 like what BadAssRX-7's pic shows. I built a harness for my friend that only used 3 wires. It was pretty cool. Oh, and don't forget to hook up that little condensor mounted below the two diaphram vacuum advancers. It hooks to the B and + terminals of the ignitors and coils.
Hook the the two wires that are on when the key is ON and in START. Mazda seperated them in order to give the points full 12V while cranking the engine, but as soon as it went into the ON posistion, the 12V would go through some ballast resistors and be dropped down to 6-9 volts to prevent wear on the points. What you need to do is hook these two wires together so the coils/ignitors get 12V in the START and ON position.
After you've found all the wires listed above, hook them up correctly and measure the voltage on all terminals of all connectors (B, C, +, - of ignitors and coils). Then see if it will run. Once its running right, go ahead and clip the old points wires or remove them from the connectors all together.
I've done everything I've listed above to my vehicles at some point. There is a learning curve involved here, but highly doable by the average joe. Heh, you spent the time and energy learning how to drive, didn't you? Now learn how to make your car have more power through better ignition.
I hope I answered more questions than I caused.
Last edited by Jeff20B; 10-29-01 at 02:12 PM.
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11-03-01, 08:17 PM
#8
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Heh...I used badass'ss picture (although i got it from a guy by the name of tim stiles)...waaay back when in my 79....never had a better mod ofr it
That 79 was the 3ooth imported i think......passenger sid hood release and 1 mirror......
too bad she rusted out..damn canadian winters
Paul
85' gsl
Pistons?!..i don need no steenken pistons
That 79 was the 3ooth imported i think......passenger sid hood release and 1 mirror......
too bad she rusted out..damn canadian winters
Paul
85' gsl
Pistons?!..i don need no steenken pistons
11-03-01, 09:50 PM
#9
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Well, I just finished rebuilding the carb tonight. Tomorrow I'm goging to redo everything that I did. I got my service manual back now and it is unbelievably easy now that I have the wiring diagram, so tomorrow its getting rewired.
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