i got help from rotary..they gave me a new guy that's taking over 1 and2 gen cars..he's in rowlett..marvel speed..they said tow and in and they would look at it..going to try some things and then that will be my last resort.

 

Well I want to say a big thanks for all who gave really good suggestions to help me out. Alas It just now got on it's first tow truck ride, going to Rowlett Texas to Marvel Speed for diagnosis. I'll let you all know what comes of everything and what was wrong, so if anyone else ever has this problem they will know how to fix it..Hope the damage isn't bad, I'm a college student with very little funds! LOL

 

Check the flapper door on the AFM (air flow meter) It's the Box where the air cleaner element is. It's really under the box to get to the AFM, remove the air cleaner top, remove the element,and there's a square 'hole'. Use a pensil and push open the flapper door inside the square 'hole'. It should NOT stick !! sometimes gunk and grim can cause the door to stick closed.

 

well I put a new one of those (Master Air Fow sensor) on last week..When I'm done messing with this it should have almost all new stuff under the hood...

 

Seeing that it's gone to the mechanic now I would like to point out that your car is a fuel injected car and that next time you point that out at the start of your post.

Many of the guys here have carburated cars which are different then yours, under the hood at least.

 

According to my Haynes manual, in 1985 Mazda installed a relay to keep the electric fuel pump off unless the engine is running (or cranking at least). The relay is located up under the instrument panel near the steering wheel column. I don't know if it was originally bolted down or not. Mine is now hanging by the wires and is looped up over the steering column so it won't get tangled in my feet.

The Haynes manual shows how to make a jumper out of a paper clip to bypass that relay. If you have a Haynes manual handy, the drawing is in the back section under "later models."

Now having said all that, you already know the fuel pump makes noise when you run a wire directly to it. Making noise however does not necessarily mean it is pumping fuel in adequate amounts to the carburetor.

You could put a test light on the hot wire to the fuel pump to see if it lights up when you crank the engine. If so, this will tell you that the relay is OK and so is the wiring to the pump.

Next you could pour a thimble full of fuel directly down the carburetor throat. If the engine fires up and runs for a few seconds, you know that the ignition system is OK.

Assuming the previous two tests were OK, you might have water in the new fuel you just bought, or you might have a fuel pump that runs but does not pump.

At this point I would disconnect the fuel line where it goes into the carburetor. Be ready with a coffee can or something to catch the fuel that comes out when you crank the engine. According to Mazada specs, the pump should put out 1 liter per minute plus or minus a tenth of a liter.

 

Okay, I'm trouble shooting my fuel pump too, there is an open harness plug with black rubber around it near the air filter. Turn the ignition key untill all the warning lights come on then jump the open harness and you should have power to the fuel pump. You should here an audible click as the relay kicks in (located somewhere under the dash). You can also check the power while doing this by remmoving the driver side storage bin and checking a harness connection just before the wire's drop outside the car.

I went through all of this and found out my fuel pump is not working even with power all the way down tot he pump.

 

Not to be a ball breaker, but did you see the FIRST line in her post?


Be sure your correct when correcting someone else.

 

Good info! On an FC you jump the test connector in the engine compartment to get the pump to run in the "key on" position. Probably the same setup.