HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

Please check out my thread on my SE's troubles. I cant figure it out and if I cant get it running it'll have to be towed 4 hours home b/c school is ending. This would cost too much money at the moment.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1st-gear-2nd-gear-now-its-dead-help-416684/

Brianhsval

I would think along the lines of fuel filter, although I have had mine way to the rich side and ran like crap, would hardly crank, so go by the Haynes Manual and set the fuel/air properly then go from there. Deffinatly NOT the ignitor. I have run mine on lead only and outside of using alot gas it still ran great. Fuel pump? The thing that I was concerned about was the puff of smoke. This could have been from being to rich, but I would have had to have been there to smell it. The smoke that is. Color? Many variables, but like I said start with the air/fuel.

Rogue_Wulff

If all else fails, and you cannot get it running before school ends, rent a uhaul truck and trailer. Bound to be cheaper than than having it towed. That is, unless you have access to a freind with a truck and trailer.
Using a tow dolly would ok, as long as you disconnect the driveshaft from the rear. Possible to damage the tranny if left hooked up for that kind of distance.
Sorry, thats about all I can add, as I have little knowledge about the SE's.

frisbeedog

I was trying to raise my idle one day from its steady 400 rpms. So i turned the idle speed screw almost all the way tight. For the nest two days i had to pull the plugs everytime i tried to restart. It was flooding like the Titanic. I backed it off about two turns and no more flooding and it idles smoother, even though it is still really low. Good luck.

smnc

That 30 PSI sounds wrong, but the odds of losing all your seals at the same time is slim...

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Did you check the AFM door? It may be sticking in the open position.

Coolant sensor in water pump housing could cause the rich mixture. Terminals may be shorted.

Maybe your ECU is messed up and is gounding out on of the injectors (making it open fully all the time). This is probably not the case since you checked the injectors (squirted long pulsing streams when you cranked, correct?)

You could try moving the blue spade connector to the leading (-) terminal. This is where the ECU gets the signal to tell the fuel pump to run and for firing the injectors. If there was enough noise on this line, the injectors would open more frequently than normal. This is probably not the problem, but it is an easy check.

Big vac leak? Check the hose that goes from the inlet duct to the RE-EGI chamber and the hose that goes from the RE-EGI chamber to the BAC valve.

If you have a TPS light setup, try to check for error codes on the ECU (see my thread in the achieve). Also check voltages at the ECU to see if they are within spec.

Hope this helps some.

Kent

Dom_C

did you take the shredder valve out of the comp checker? You shouldn't hold in the button. Just remove the valve then watch for the bounces. 90 psi doesn't sound to bad, that's about home much comp i had on my rotaryressurection rebuild. anyhow that is very odd. Maybe check your Throttle Position Sensor, very odd things can happen when that is unplugged or not working.
Dom

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

I feel like a complete jackass and am out about $150.

It was the coolant temp sensor. I plugged it in, the car ran fine, after about 30 minutes the smoke from the gas in the exhaust finally burned off and I drove it around. Although it doesnt feel as powerful as before.

Thanks for all the help everyone

-Greg

Brianhsval

I know that feeling! The main thing is that you are back up and running.

Rogue_Wulff

The loss of power is likely from the plugs getting gas fouled. Got another set to try?
Hard lesson to learn, but I know what will be the first item you check if a similar situation occurs.

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

Yeah the plugs are brand new
thats what made the damn thing finally start again and how I figured out I was getting too much fuel.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Get the Tps plugged back in and reset it to specs for the idle problem. If it is not out of adjustment you could have a bent throttle or sticking shaft. This is common on the se. With the TPs unplugged the Ecu does not know when you are at idle and is just giving a predetermined amount of fuel. Which means when you go to idle it is not dropping the amount of fuel delivered or pulse width which will lead to pre-mature failing of your apex seals and it will be engine rebuild time instead of plug the coolant temp sensor in,lol. rx7doctor

13B4port

ok a few things to check. to me it sounds as if either not enough fuel or timing is off or vacum leak. things about the fuel on a gsl-se. the injectors are timed of the trailing spark. unplug the trailing coil and you won't get any fuel. check for fuel leaks. replace the fuel filter. i had similar issues and thats what it turned out to be. ignition... make sure that the distributor didn't rotate out of spot. make sure the contacts are good looking and the rotor is in good shape. if that all checks out. lets check for vacum leaks. start the car. if you floor it and it revs up after a little sputter then it's a vacum leak. other way to check is with a spary bottle filled with water (or solvent) start spraying the engine down. when it drys where you just sprayed there is a vacum leak there. if you use solvent be very careful. i use this as the engine will rev a little bit when you find the leak. be warned though if you've never done this i wouldn't use solvent. if you still have the BAC on the intake, crimp the line that travels to the intake duct close and see if it starts running better. and lastley make sure you have oil preasure.

let me know what you find and i'll tell you what direction to go from there. as far as the tps, MAS and such. you can force the car to run in open loop mode by unplugging the O2 sensor. open loop is a prefabed fuel map in the ECU that it runs when the car is cold and is warming up and also runs in open loop when a sensor goes bad. however if you unplug the MAS or the TPS you won't be able to rev very high as the ECU cuts the fuel when these senors go bad. so i would just unplug the O2 sensor to see if it's a sensor issue. you should have your car running like a cold start with the O2 sensor unplugged.

hope this helps

13B4port

oops i didn't read that he had fixed the issue.. my bad.