1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

p-port project

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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 01:47 PM
  #76  
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IMO Stay away from RA Seals. They eat housings, imagine how fast they would eat a 9000rpm motor. Also, you want lighter seals not heavier.
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 02:04 PM
  #77  
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i can help mod a intake to work. iam a bender and tig welder by trade. the max i have for most jobs is +/- .02
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 01:25 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by nick812
Ok pportnosgsl what apex seals are you using and blown7. I dont have the big $ to spend so I am leading to the racing beat but if I think I might go turbo maybe the RA seals I know there heavy but I think they will work ok.
I am using racing beat 3mil carbons with some modification.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 01:37 AM
  #79  
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I also have 3mm racing beat carbon seals with solid corner seals with FD springs.


pportnosgsl - you running nos on your carbons. I was leading toward some steel or ceramic ($1400 a set)
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 02:39 AM
  #80  
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i will be spraying 175 shot this year on the carbon seals,it has been succesful on a friends car,it's all in the tuning,is 14 sec the best you have done ?.i would like to compare set ups to see what you have different that mine,my car has gone 12.7@110,i'm just curious as to why the big gap in both E.T.,and mph,i would like to see your car n the 12's as well.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 12:12 PM
  #81  
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If you are not an expert on tunning then don't run nos or turbo on carbon apex seals. You will blow them. I can't believe pportnosgsl friend is running 175 shot on carbon seals. He must be an awesome tuner to pull that off.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 06:50 PM
  #82  
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the fuel injection will make tuning a lot easier,my buddies car just had a 51 mil weber,the timing is the key to the success of engine survival with nitrous.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 10:20 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by pportnosgsl
the fuel injection will make tuning a lot easier,my buddies car just had a 51 mil weber,the timing is the key to the success of engine survival with nitrous.
Yeah, a good rule of thumb is to retard 1 degree of timing for every 25 horsepower NOS shot. Man, but carbon seals and NOS don't mix well. The very slightest detonation under the bottle will blow those seals like nothing.
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 12:07 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by warwickben
i can help mod a intake to work. iam a bender and tig welder by trade. the max i have for most jobs is +/- .02
What would you charge for this type of work?
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 12:32 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay
Yeah, a good rule of thumb is to retard 1 degree of timing for every 25 horsepower NOS shot. Man, but carbon seals and NOS don't mix well. The very slightest detonation under the bottle will blow those seals like nothing.
i am going to be taking 3 degrees for every 50 hp,i have also clearanced the engine for that specific purpose,and have also done extensive modification to it to make sure it stays together,the engine lasted 9 years before i took it apart for the freshen up last year.
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 01:22 AM
  #86  
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pportnosgsl did you get my PM???
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 02:26 AM
  #87  
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yes,just wanted to ask what time of day would be good to call,how many hours are you behind or ahead of me,i'm west coast USA.
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 08:18 PM
  #88  
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ceramics, where is a good place to buy them?
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 09:41 PM
  #89  
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If I go ceramics Ludwig carrys NRS at an affordable $1,375 with springs.for a set
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 10:59 PM
  #90  
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What pump are you all using. I am thinking maybe black or blue holley.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 09:46 PM
  #91  
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i was using a mallory 140 gph,but i will be switching to a aeromotive since i have gone to fuel injection
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 10:11 PM
  #92  
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got any updates or pics of your project...
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 11:11 PM
  #93  
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No waiting on the S5 block to be pulled and ready for pickup and tear down. I did pickup a aluminum flywheel off ebay and I am waiting for ducktape to get back from a trip to look at getting his 13B oil pan and baffle. Proably gonna order the gaskt kit this week along with the spec stage 3 clutch. Still no carb yet but I ll wait till mine selld to get it.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 11:12 PM
  #94  
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What kind of carb are you selling? and that's good stuff right keep us posted
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 11:16 PM
  #95  
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mukini rebuilt last year less than 8k miles on rebuild I belive its closer to 4k but I didnt right down the milage.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 12:34 AM
  #96  
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im interested in how you do the porting for a peripheral port. i mean the actuall making of the whole and fixing the tube inside the housing. do you have any info on this, i haven't been able to find any
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 12:52 AM
  #97  
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check nopitions . com they have a good porting section. Also there was a good write up by someone in the race tech section .
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 03:34 PM
  #98  
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sorry about not answering you aussiesmg. hit me up with a pm and ill let you know.
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Old Feb 20, 2008 | 12:32 PM
  #99  
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OK quick update Just went and looked at the exhuast Hell yea. Old RE dual flange header cut and new 3in flange installed with 3in all the way back NO muffler yet ordered it 2 weeks ago and still not here. The shop went ahead and for fitment took 3in al the way out the back. Looks crazy with this big 3in tail pipe sticking out. Also had the egt and os bungs installed. I ll post pics when I get it back. FYI the re system just hangs way to low anyone else have that problem with there's?

This was some of the first true step to getting the car ready for the p-port. Next fuel. Did anyone upgrade there lines or just run the stock ones? I am leading to the holley blue or black. More to the black for the money.
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