Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

ok i think im going to stop touching my car all together. I just tried to do the 2cnd gen direct fire trick that metalic rock posted. and i thought i did everything correct. so i started it up and it idled ok for a while. and i go and drive it and all hell breaks loose. it starts backfiring like crazy. idles down to about 200 rpm. I swapped it back to the old ignition and its still doing the same. it seems like its hesitating threw the rpm real bad also. what am i dealing with her guys??

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

anyone have any idea? its drivin me nuts! bumpity

1985_RX-7

Bump, help the poor guy.

lovintha7

You checked the ignitors or the spark to the leading?

Whanrow

Seems to me there was another thread with a similar occurence just the other day, and the guy was SURE he had it wired right, and turned out he didn't. Should be in the first couple of page of the 1st gen section.

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

i checked to see if all 4 where firing and the trailing 2 wernt. does that mean i burnt our my coil? i put all the ignition stuff back to stock and it still idled adn ran like crap.

FB II

my first suggestion was going to be to check the that trailing coil, but usually when there is massive backfiring and all, the leading can be to blame as well. have you checked your actual timing? if the trailing is firing too soon then that can cause it as well with this mod. back out the trailing when you get them firing again and see if that doesn't help some.

keep us posted.

sgieldon

I'm thinking Ignitors 1st!
Coils 2nd!
Try switching them from Trail to Lead then Back again.
If you have spares even makes it easier.
Does your Tach still work?
Good Luck
sgieldon
steve

racintang

If I remeber right, when you do the direct fire, your supposed to lock open all the way out you trailing on the vacuum advance.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

For starters, which thread exactly did you use for your instructions for the 2nd Gen directfire?

Triple check your wires. I'm sure you have, but T-Trailing-"Top plug holes" L-Leading-"Lower Plug Holes"
That's how I remember them. Rotor1 is the one closest to the radiator. So L1 and T1 = closest spark plugs to the front of the motor.

The coil closest to the shock tower should be the Leading coil, with a yellow-green wire.

See this thread here, post #12:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/little-help-ignition-messed-up-wires-coils-487964/

If that's all good, then I really don't know. the ignition system is all just the proper connection of wires, coils and spark plugs.... If it's all plugged properly (in stock config) then it should work!

If not.... yeah, check your timing with a timing light but I can't imagine it having changed much.

Jon

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

ok i overchecked all my wires again and they are all correct. I have everything the way it came off of the mazda line. and my trailings are still not firing. and yes my tach still works. is the ignitor the first thing to go if you dont instal the ballist resistor when doing the 2cnd gen direct fire. it was the post metalic rock did. is it possible to swap ignitors with the other one on my distrubutor to see if they would fire?

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

The coil closest to the shock tower should be the Leading coil, with a yellow-green wire.???
vipernicus42 you say that in this post. but to the one u linked me with its the opposite. im lost

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

ok i swapped the wiring over from one ignitor to the back one to see if i could get the plugs to fire and they did. so dont that mean im down one ignitor?

FB II

yea, grab a new ignitor. this is why i like having an msd setup. no more leading ignitor

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

ok ill be pickin up one tomm from the junkyard hopefully. when Im installing the second gen leading coilpack again im suppose to wire up that ballast resistor to the positive side like it comes on the coil correct?

this is the install i was doing
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=243350

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

anyone!! bumpity!

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Trust the post I linked to, not what I wrote here.. I'm in the process of switching shifts at work and I'm a little out of it. I'll go back and correct myself later, but I *know* that thread is right. It's what we used when we did Eric's car, and it was taken from a comparison to mine (which hadn't been touched)

Yeah, if switching ignitors got trailing to fire, you're down an ignitor, but you should be able to run just fine without trailings at all. They're only for emissions control, and Jeff20b ran an engine without them with no problems.

Hook up your leadings and you should be alright. Think hard about anything else you could have changed. If you've got a working ignitor and coil, you should have a nice strong current going to your dist cap. If the current gets there, the only thing that can make you run bad or backfire are

1. Fouled plugs
2. Mis-connected wires
3. Timing Problem.

I figure it isn't #3 if you haven't changed your timing recently. Take a wirebrush to the plugs and make sure they're dry. Then make sure of your wires. Backfiring is made from plugs firing at the wrong time, and only so many things can make plugs fire at the wrong time.

There was debate about the ballast resistor. Search for ballast resistor and see if you can get some info on it. If I get time later I'll search it up for you and see if I can find some proper information.

Jon

Jon