I am trying to put everything back together on this car. I got it with everything disassembled and it is kind of a pain not knowing where everything goes.

My observation is of the oil metering pump. 2 hoses clear that run to the carb ( still trying to figure out which ports) but that is pretty simple. The linkage of how the rod attaches to the carb is in question. However what concerns me is the lever on the omp does not move at all. Or does it move only when the car is running? Or is it seized? The car has been sitting for 10 years.

 

it's mechanical and if it's connected correctly, it should move with the throttle.

i've come across one or two over the years that were pretty much frozen, but always got them moving just fine with some work. you should remove it and try seeing if you can restore it to function.

when you put it back together, test output per the instructions in the manual.

 

it is seized I have a couple extra ones laying around if you want I would give you one you would just have to pay for shipping and get a new gasket

 

I will see if I can get this one working otherwise it might be 2 cycle oil time. I am just surprised as I thought people said that these never give much problems.

 

generally speaking, they don't. however, they're all pretty much in their third decade of service now and between inactivity and whatever failure would naturally occur (not to mention, how many people actually go out of their way keep them working?), it happens.

 

pineappleracing.com sells a rebuild kit (with how-2 DVD!) for about $25

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

so if the OMP is not putting out oil and it doesnt appear seized, what then? its a 1980 RX7 all original except a competition exhaust.

 

my apology...the oil may not be moving into the pump for some reason...this needs investigation some more. 2 cycle oil is there for now.

 

Remember that the rod in question is what 'throttles' the ouput of the OMP. Your pump might be just fine and pumping oil through those clear tubes at the rate it would be expected to at IDLE. If the actuator rod won't move, then the pump will never output more oil than what would be needed at idle conditions, since the rod increases OMP flow when you open the throttle to help lubricate the engine internals.

Pre-mix is one way to handle this, but is messy and smelly. The OMP itself isn't complicated at all and the rebuild kit is nothing more than a few O-ring seals to prevent leaks, which is about the extent to which these pumps will need a rebuild. On yours, it's possible that the rod or actuator assembly on the inside is seized and can be freed easily if you remove it (2x10mm bolts) and work it back and forth a few times.

In operation, the OMP works well at what it's intended to do.

 

My original OMP was actually seized when I got the car. Fortunately, it was stuck in the wide open position, so no harm done. While the car has undercoating on it, and generally the underside appears in good shape, the spring on the OMP spring was all gummed / crusted up. I ended up replacing the OMP w/ one that I got here. However, I failed to replace the o-rings on the replacement one, so I found myself running 2-stroke until I was able to re-replace it. My point is that yes, the OMP can seize. You should be able to grab the little "arm" that the connecting rod attaches to - that rod should move when you pull on it, with the spring returning it to the original position.