Ok so I was tinkering on my car today and noticed that there was a bit of crud, oil, grease, around my serpentine belt area, and it was on the wimpy plastic tubing that goes from the carb to the front cover under the waterpump. So I believe this to be an omp or something related. I'm not a 100 % of what this is since I'm still a newb and doing what I can to learn about rotary. I decided this must be an omp because there is lines coming from it going to the carb, and its leaking oil. So Please tell me If I'm completely off or not. Also the wimpy plastic tubing is looking like its had enough. I'm afraid to bump them because they look very brittle and warn. It also doesn't look like fluid is in them I'm going to dump some 2 stroke into it before I start it again.

So I think I'll just toss the OMP and start premixing. I like the smell of 2 stroke gas and exhaust anyway. Can I just make a block off plate, or do I need to buy one. I haven't been able to figure out where to buy them. I've looked through mazdatrix and pineapple and cant find them. and what all do I need to do it besides just the block-off plate.

Also Please shoot me some facts about the process so I can get it right the first time. I've searched I'm just lost.

Or should I just rebuild the OMP, and buy new plastic tubing?
car is 83 gs

 

mine builds up oil crust over time. but i'd say unless you really want to do it right now, i wouldn't worry about it as long as you're still getting oil into the lines, and the leak is not major, like fresh oil. when mine builds up it must be a very tiny leak because i can't see any fresh oil just a bit of crust, but most cars build crust along the oil pans and stuff anyways so ...yeah lol.

 

there's fresh oil too and the lines look dry. I understand that the oil falls back into the engine, but these look bone dry. I rather just fix it before it gets worse. I plan on making a monster of a car out of my beater. so first I need to make it not a beater. then start modding.

I'd rather just block off and premix than spend time rebuilding this part, not to mention that its probably cheaper than a rebuild kit and new lines. Plus it'll be back on the road quicker with a more reliable method of lubing engine internals IMHO.

My car is my life, I have nightmares about my car and only my car. Seriously, Just my car having major issues, not falling, or being chased by monsters. I may need to see a therapist. It happens alot. Im not joking and there vivid. I do have good car dreams also.

 

Pineappleracing.com sells a rebuild kit AND a great little on-line video on how to do it. Bone simple, just a few o-rings. But you should replace the oil meter lines as these do eventually go south. Still avai from mazda...

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

so your saying not to block off and premix? and the lines are ****. thats why i was just gunna start premixing. it just seems that it would be a cheeper and better fix to block it off.

 

Well, mazda's been using this method since...1967 - and they had to fight to keep the rep of reliable engines, so I gotta figure that this is pretty proven technology. 'Course like any nylon or plastic doodad it won't last forever, but 20 yrs is probably a safe bet. So. cheaper? yes, but what a PITA to have to keep adding oil (tho there are roto-folks that do). And getting the _right_ mix... and making sure/hoping it DOES mix. What's the rotor-motor worth if it dies a slow death from inconsistent premix? What is the time and hassle worth. $40-ish over 20 yrs is actually pretty cheap...

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

also make sure that your front cover gasket is not leaking. it can cause drippng on the ground and throw oil onto the metering pump and lines making it difficult to source the leak. it will also give the impression that the omp itself, the gasket or the lines are leaking.

 

check out https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=OMP
for some discussion of options

 

Thanks for the info. I wasn't saying that omp suck, I was just saying I think 2 stroke would do the job and maybe a little better. since it would cover more area than the omp. I know there's some issues as far as premixing. I've heard that if you block off the pump but don't do something the front bearing will get starved for oil. fuel filters go much quicker, Its a pita to mix every time you fill up. but I know the ratio that I need, and I'm not worried about it not mixing. I use to run chainsaws on a daily basis. I was just going to carry a 2 gal gas can fill that up and put the rest in the tank do the math and mix it in the can to make sure its just not sitting on the bottom.

 

Your theory that 2 stroke oil would be a better choice for the rotary seems well founded. Regular motor oil has widely varying "ashless dispersant" qualities.
Mazda used the OMP for several reasons, convenience being one.
The OMP provides a variable amount of oil depending on need.
At low rpm and low throttle opening very little oil is supplied and it is proportional at all combinations in between idle and full load & rpm.
At high rpm and high throttle opening the maximum amount of oil is supplied.
The system reduces the potential for plug fouling at low load and supplies ample oil for lubrication at high load.
I believe the ideal system is the provision of a separate tank for 2 stroke oil and the adapter or OMP mod to draw oil from the separate tank for the OMP.
This allows the ideal oil for apex and side seals (2 stroke) and also allows the use of Castrol Syntec or other quality synthetic oil in the crankcase for the E shaft and related gears etc.
The difficultly in this for most is finding and mounting a suitable tank.
I am working on a tank made from an old fire extinguisher. The tank is spun aluminum and you can find them in various sizes. I am using a 2 + quart tank.
I will post with pictures when it is finished (if successful).

 

I agree with you're idea of a separate tank to facilitate the use of good quality two stroke oil in the engine and quality lubricating oil in the oil pan. This is the method I am going to use when i am rebuilding my seven and I think it will be the most efficient in terms of engine longevity and performance.

If you run a search you will see there is a member who has already done this and found that a motorcyle oil tank worked very well for him.

 

I was aware of the differnt amount of oil for differnt rpm the omp provides. I'm willing to make that sacrifice. I've also read about a seprate tank using the omp. But wouldn't I need to block off the front cover to do this and premix for a few tanks to make sure its working. I don't know alot about the system hands on, I have alot of theary I've read up on here and other internet sorces. I'd like to run a seperate tank and use the omp once its working properly.

So what I need to know is what i'm suppose to tap so the front bearing gets oil. can someone post a picture of the front cover mods needed to run a seperate tank of two stroke. and mabey a link with a step by step. I think I just have to make my own block off plate.

I assume I need to mount the Oil pickup inside of the oil tank. and run some lines to the omp on the carb.

Also anything to help me understand omp's a little better

 

There is actually a post of someone who is using a reservoir style system and does not require much modification. But for the life of me I can't find the damned thread.

Edit- Found the little bugger! Weird title no wonder it wouldn't show up under the search! https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/richard-sohn-metering-pump-adapter-install-809207/

 

Thank you. Yeah this looks like something I wouldn't mind putting time and money into. but to just fix it and go back to the way it was before doesn't interest me. I probably should post it on the omp adapter tread but I'll ask here also. So where is that line going to that's coming from the tank. Shouldn't it be going to the carb. it appears to be going to the front of the radiator.

 

nevermind. I looked a little closer. it goes to the front cover and uses the stock lines from the front cover up to the carb, correct?

 

The Sohn adapter uses the drive slot that powers the stock MOP. It is in itself a pump. The tank simply supplys oil, everything else connects as normal.