RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys, well when I ordered my carb from Robert, I forgot to have him put the OMP fittings in the manifold (ala MazdaTrix) for me so I dont have to run premix...Yet.

So my solution was to get some 1/8" I.D. polyethelene tubing from the hardware store, two 1/8" NPT to 1/8" barb fittings and call it good. Total colst $2.75.

Now heres the plan:

1. Drill and tap two 1/8" NPT holes in the intake manifold before it seperates to each individual port (so oil goes to all 4 ports).

2. Install the two 1/8" NPT to 1/8" barb adapter fittings in the manifold.

3. Run the 1/8" hose from the OMP (which also has 1/8" barb fittings) to the manifold.

Now for the question. How will this affect the oil metering to the engine? I mean, obviously it will flow more oil (1/8" I.D. tube vs. needle thin I.D. stock) which Im not too worried about (the more the merrier), but am I gonna be looking at fouled plugs all the time or what? Anyone know? Anyone have a better idea about how to bo about injecting the oil into the manifold? Thanks guys .

~T.J.

EDIT: This is the type of fitting Im putting in the manifold:

moremazda

iTrader: (4)

TJ,
You idea will work fine. That is acctually how the stock Nikki works, except that the oil is injected into the primary throtle bores not the manifold (directly). But your plan will work. You should probably place the fittings on the out side of the manifold so the oil is injected into the fastest part of the air stream allowing for better atomazation of the oil.

Ryan

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

That was the idea, the outside curve of the manifold (same side as the brake booster). The main concern Im having is if the lines/fittings are too big or not.

~T.J.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

i know mines not the same but i used the stock injection on the manifold. w/o the vaccume attachments. and left the ome on the block un hooked. then i just zip ties the omp 3/4 of the wat open. i think it should be okay does anyone have any ideas for me as another way of doing it??

680RWHP12A

that sounds good, the more oil you can inject the longer your motor will last ,bottom line!!did you open your 6 port actuators or did you hook up the line to your exhaust?

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

stright ripped everything out

680RWHP12A

what do you mean? the actuators? the sleeves in the manifold? i really like the pineapple sleeves, those look like a good idea!

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

yup its all gone!! no actuators, no sleves. just the lil linkage thinggy is still there it will go when i got some money to buy a tap set and tap the manifold then put some plugs in.. Mazda racing JB welds in dimes i guess that works good

Rex4Life

TJ,

I think you are OK with the line size. The metering pump does precisely that, it meters the oil output. Since the pump is not pumping against huge pressures, the line size will not matter.

On a second note, the location of your injection could be critical--so use a known location where someone else has had success--otherwise, be very careful picking a new location.

I am thinking about using premix and I'm curious why you decided not to.

Regards, Scott

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

I decided not to because I have no job, which mean no money. So, if say I need gas to get home, and I only has a couple dollars, I cant afford to buy gas AND oil, then try and think about how much gas I just put in and how much oil Ill need, etc.

Im gonna premix right after I get a job, and just put a couple plugs in the manifold. Then, when i fill up, its always a full tank, and I always know how much oil to put it. it just doesnt seem logical to try and premix in my current situation.

~T.J.

EDIT: By the way, I had the holes drilled and tapped today by my uncle, so its a done deal . Im just gonna run this and hope it works out for the best .

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I think that Im going to use 1/8" copper tube with crush fittings instead, because after some more careful research, I have found that the tube I bought is only good for liquids up to 185° . I have the crush fittings that will go into the manifold in the same place, so Ill just use those with copper line .

~T.J.

fatboy7

My only consern with using lines that are that large, is the time it takes after starting the engine until oil makes it to the top of the lines after siting the night....the metering pump will pump the same amount regardless (hence the name), but the volume it has to fill will now be much larger, before it actually starts to work. Then again, maybe the oil doesn't drain down much because of the way the pump is built.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

I dont know about drainage. I used the pol;yeurethane tube i bought for a little while, and there was draining (I could see through the line). But, I have a feeling it was because of the lack of a great seal around the barbed fittings. I switched over to the copper tube and crush fittings shortly after I got it running (yes, it runs ), and I have a feeling that the air tight seal will be better as far as everything is concerned as a whole. No oil leak, no manifold leak, etc.

~T.J.