1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Omp

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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 08:19 PM
  #1  
ampzilla74's Avatar
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From: great falls montana
Omp

im not sure if my omp is working right or at all,how do i determine this? also,if i find it isnt working,how do i premix,i mean what do i use and how much??? thanks again. Dave. ohj its a 82 12a with a mikuni and rb intake/exhaust.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 09:09 PM
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Eriks85Rx7's Avatar
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From: West Virginia
is your car eating any oil? if so thats good!
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 09:19 PM
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I found that my omp wasnt working and contacted bryan at rotorsports and i started premixing, its a sure way to know you are getting oil in. on a older car if your worried if it does work how would you know if it stopped working so i think i would premix. you can use 2 storke oil and mix 1 ounce pre gallon, but the best thing is to get some of the rotor premix oil its specifically for rotor engines and then you only have to premix .5 ounce pre gallon.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 09:28 PM
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rotor premix oil?
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 09:33 PM
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Idemitsu makes some rotary-specific pre mix. It's rather expensive, however. I'll stick to plain old 2-stroke oil.
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 02:33 PM
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ampzilla74's Avatar
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From: great falls montana
ok thanks for the input guys,im not sure if its using oil cause it isnt currently running lol. ive got the mikuni appart for some necessary repair! broken parts,missing gaskets,floats wayyyy off and dirt everywhere lol.
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 03:05 PM
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Anytime you are bringing one back from the dead, it's a good idea to premix anyways. After sitting for a long time, the apex seals and rotor housings are generally very dry, may even have a little rust on them, and could use a little extra lube.
I even use the premix idea for piston engines, when they have been sitting for a while, but generally use ATF for them.
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 10:20 PM
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I just rebuilt my OMP with the kit from Lowe's performance. Their website has been down for a while, but they're still alive and selling the kit. Do a search and find their phone number, I've posted it a few times before.

If you're really really slow, you can get it done in an hour. It's super-easy and the "kit" will cost you like $15 or something like that.

Broundmound rebuild his too, his site has pictures. His was a GSL-SE, but the information is still relevant. Mazspeed has an article on OMP rebuild in their "facts" section too.

Jon
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 01:46 AM
  #9  
cpt_gloval's Avatar
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once i get around to it, i'm probably going to get a blockoff for mine and premix
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 11:54 AM
  #10  
z-beater's Avatar
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From: WA
Look to see if oil is flowing up the lines...that should tell you if it is working!

"is your car eating any oil? if so thats good!"

Ha that is funny...
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 08:04 PM
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Aviator 902S's Avatar
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
You'll know when it's not pumping because the metering lines will be empty. As long as they are golden-brown you're getting oil.

Having said that, pre-mixing (or feeding 2-cycle oil from a separate reservior) is best. You'll want to block oil flow from the engine to the omp if you go with either of these methods.
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