My car has been sitting, I have it running in driveway now, How do i know if my OMP is working?

I plan on mixing a slight ratio of 2-stroke to my gas...but How can i tell if my omp is functioning correctly.

 

the lines are clear i think, im assuming if you play with the throttle cable and look at the lines youll see oil moving through them... thats my best guess

-Rob

 

The lines are clear, but I really dont think youll be able to notice the oil moving through them. You could dissconect them and measure how much oil its pumping, but you would need to have something else lubricating the engine while you did this, and I dont know how much it is supposed to pump. It might say in the heynes manual, but I cant find mine right now...

 

Check the Heynes manual! It's got the procedure outlined pretty clearly in there.

And now from a reading from the book of Heynes Chapter 3 Verse 23

"And lo thou shalt runneth thine engine at two thousand RPM for a lengh of time such that 6 minutes have passed. And thou shalt measure the oil discharge from the tubes at the side of the Holy Nikki...."

And don't forget to be adding oil to the smaller primary barrels of the carb, since you're measuring the oil coming out of the tubes where they *would* enter into the carb. Add enough to cover what's coming out into the tubes, a little extra won't kill it though.

The book says you're looking for 2.0-2.5cc, but basically you're just looking to see if any oil is coming out.

Jon

 

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

anyone have any experience with this adapter?

 

hmmm. never seen those before, they look cool.

 

I just ordered some Amsoil 100:1 synthetic two stroke oil and intend on mixing it with my fuel every other tank. I still have my omp.

 

 

Im not racing this car , I'm a cruiser. Although i can see it getting to red line a few times a day for sure.

I can forsee special occasions ..road rallys etc....Classic road rallys etc....where i maybe want a bit more oil in my mix.

My plan is to keep my OMP working slick...and add a very light mix of the 2-stroke to my gas.Im thinking 4 oz per fill up.


Im also looking at that adapter i linked above to fill my omp.

seem a good plan or see any flaws?

 

wouldn't the blue smoke on start-up be of indication that the OMP is doing its thing?

 

I have smoke at start up. Always thought it was just the engine cleaning out excess gas. So it could be the OMP huh? And this means everything is working the was it's supposed to? I doubt Mazda would've sold any of these cars NEW if they did that off the lot though.....

 

No. The smoke at startup is from a few CCs that seep past the oil seals after shut down. It's normal and even beneficial for easier starts. It's just a small puff of smoke, right?

 

Well, mine smokes until the temp gage hits the first line more or less (~4-5 min).

 

Yeah, I get just a little bit at start up and it goes away by the time i push my choke all the way in.

 

The length of time it smokes at startup is an easy way to figure how old the oil seals and/or oil O rings are. The longer it smokes, the older they are.

I installed some Atkins Viton O rings in an engine that used to smoke a lot. It smoked a bit at startup and during deceleration. After the O ring swap (and a healthy port job hehe) the rebuilt engine doesn't smoke at startup at all as far as I can tell, or any other time. The oil seals had some wear, but they looked like they were just at the edge of the limit mentioned in the FSM. I resued them and they work great.

To be honest, I was expecting at least some smoke at startup with my used oil seals, but since recently completing the break-in process, I've not noticed any smoke at startup lately. I'll have to make a concentrated effort to look for smoke while starting the engine next time.

 

Are those easy to replace? (seals, o-rings)

 

This is probably a dumb question, but do you know what a rotor looks like?

 

I know how everything looks and works, but I don't know much about what most of the work involves. I haven't poked around much with the engine itself.

 

Oh, ok. In order to work on the oil seals, the engine must be disassembled. To answer your question, yes, they are easy to replace (when there is easy access to the rotors).

 

mixing oil with your fuel, lowers its octane

 

Yep, you're right Tom.

And unless you have forced-induction, your rotary runs just fine on Ub3r-low octane! There's not NEAR enough compression in a stock rotary to have to worry about detonation from even 83 octane gas. That's what Mazda ran in *forgets which class of races* in the 80s.

Now DirectFreak and IoTus on the other hand might need to worry... but I think that after doing a turbo swap, they've got the "let's pump the right gas for this car" thing down pat.


Jon

 

Speaking of smoke. The new GSL I just bought doesn't really smoke on start-up but it does let go a healthy cloud when I shift above say 5500 RPM, what does that indicate? I thought it might be a momentary oil-rich situation caused by the OMP pumping for that rpm but not for that throttle position, am I right?
Grant

 

grantmac, that indicates oil seals and/or oil O rings that are old. At high RPM when you let off the go pedal between shifts, a large vacuum is created inside the engine. This vacuum pulls oil in past the oil seals. It's stronger than the vacuum at idle.

I love how easy these engines are to rebuild.

 

The thing goes like stink so I'm a little against a teardown for the moment, should I just keep adding oil and run it or should I do the soft seals?
Grant

P.S. Motor was supposedly rebuilt 50K ago.