Oils
#1
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Oils
I'm running Castrol GTX 10w30 in the engine, Castrol Syntec 75w90 in the tranny, and Havoline 80w90 in the diff (All I had at the time... )
What're you guys running? I noticed when I tried 15w40 in the engine about a month ago oil consumption was quite a bit more noticable than using 10w30... any similar observations? Anybody recommend I change the diff oil to something else?
What're you guys running? I noticed when I tried 15w40 in the engine about a month ago oil consumption was quite a bit more noticable than using 10w30... any similar observations? Anybody recommend I change the diff oil to something else?
#6
Rotoholic Moderookie
iTrader: (4)
I still can`t understand why you guys are using 20w50... it`s a thicker oil. I`ve been recommended just plain 10w30, dino oil, and I can`t see any real reason to switch.
But don`t use Synthetic! (I think most of you know that, but if you don`t, I`m gonna copy my post from my other thread to remind why)
"Things are about the same stance, but I have a word on the synthetic oil.
The reasons I've been given as to why you shouldn't use it are pretty simple. The oil is mixed into the gas before it's sprayed into the combustion chamber. This means
1. The oil has to mix well with the gas and
2. The oil is meant, to a certain extent, to burn off with the gas
Synthetic doesn't blend well with gas, it's designed not to, because it's also designed NOT to burn off, thus the reason you can use it for longer in regular piston engines w/o having it burn off or having to change it.
So my advice to those out there using it... STOP!
If you're really concerned about performance degredation from your oil, just use regular dinosaur oil (10w30, since rotaries like THIN oil for good mixing and spraying), and change it more often.
"
L8rs
Jon
But don`t use Synthetic! (I think most of you know that, but if you don`t, I`m gonna copy my post from my other thread to remind why)
"Things are about the same stance, but I have a word on the synthetic oil.
The reasons I've been given as to why you shouldn't use it are pretty simple. The oil is mixed into the gas before it's sprayed into the combustion chamber. This means
1. The oil has to mix well with the gas and
2. The oil is meant, to a certain extent, to burn off with the gas
Synthetic doesn't blend well with gas, it's designed not to, because it's also designed NOT to burn off, thus the reason you can use it for longer in regular piston engines w/o having it burn off or having to change it.
So my advice to those out there using it... STOP!
If you're really concerned about performance degredation from your oil, just use regular dinosaur oil (10w30, since rotaries like THIN oil for good mixing and spraying), and change it more often.
"
L8rs
Jon
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#8
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
This directly from Castrol website:
20W-50 Above 20° F Provides maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM racing engines. Excellent choice for high temperature and heavy loads such as driving in the desert or towing a trailer at high speeds for long periods of time.
10W-30 Above 0° F Most frequently recommended viscosity grade for most automobile engines, including high-performance multivalve engines and turbo-charged engines.
Max protection 20/50!
20W-50 Above 20° F Provides maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM racing engines. Excellent choice for high temperature and heavy loads such as driving in the desert or towing a trailer at high speeds for long periods of time.
10W-30 Above 0° F Most frequently recommended viscosity grade for most automobile engines, including high-performance multivalve engines and turbo-charged engines.
Max protection 20/50!
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