suspension swap
08-05-02, 05:42 AM
#2
All of them 
.
~T.J.
PS - Search, Its definatly out there...
PPS - There was only one recall on the first gen that I know of (12/1976 - 02/1983), and it wasnt even a huge problem, so they must have built them right
.~T.J.
PS - Search, Its definatly out there...
PPS - There was only one recall on the first gen that I know of (12/1976 - 02/1983), and it wasnt even a huge problem, so they must have built them right
IN CERTAIN HIGH SALT AREAS, THE IDLER ARM IS EXPOSED TO ROAD SALT WHICH CAUSES THE DUST SEAL TO DETERIORATE RESULTING IN IDLER ARM PIN CORROSION. THIS CAUSES THE PIN TO FREEZE AND BREAK. CONSEQUENCE OF DEFECT: A BROKEN IDLER ARM PIN COULD RESULT IN LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL AND MAY CAUSE AN ACCIDENT.
Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; 08-05-02 at 05:49 AM.
08-05-02, 11:58 AM
#3
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Just get the whole strut assembly. The only difference is bigger brakes and a slightly taller damper. If you're only doing the front you don't need to swap the master cylinder/proportioning valve.
Don't forget the wheels since you'll have a different bolt pattern up front.
Don't forget the wheels since you'll have a different bolt pattern up front.
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