TOFUDRIFTER

Hey guys i've got a couple of questions about my 82 FB.

Im gonna be storing my rex in a few days and i know im supposed to change the oil before doing so, but my buddies uncle (mechanic/mentor of mine) mentioned it might be a good idea to throw some Lucas Oil Stabilizer in when doing so..
Anyone have experience using this in a 12a? also... i've checked the FAQ, my manual, and various sources on the internet.. but i cant find an exact answer for how many quarts of oil im supposed to use in this thing... so if you wouldnt mind helping out a noob by letting me know XD

A few of my concerns in using the stabilizer are:
1) Its really thick to begin with, ive used it in pistion engines with nothing but good outcomes, however, im worried about it "clogging" up somewhere and not letting oil be injected into the rotor housing..

2) its also an older car, i dont know if it could end up damaging something in oil system..

Thanks a lot for any tips/advice/answers! You guys are awesome!

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

The capacity is 5 quarts ( if you change the filter, which is a must IMHO).

Personnaly I wouldnt worry about the oil stabilizer. If it were me I would just change the oil now and again prior to startup.

The only thing in the engine that I can think of that it would affect are the oil control O-rings which are a combination of a big O-ring and a metal ring. The additive may have stuff in it that may be good for the o-rings or they may be bad, who knows?

DarkDrakeX

umm i wouldent bother with oil stabilization but heres a writeup Aaron Cake dude ( a old school rx7 restorer hes doing a rx5 right now) on how to properly store a car.. Ide seriously read this and properly store your vehicle depending on how long its gonna be stored of course.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/storage.htm

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Only thing I would add to the Storage Link DDx supplied is:
-Fill the fuel tank as _absolutely_ FULL as you can! You want to eliminate as much air space in there as possible. air has moisture = condensation = rust build up in the tank. bad news!

And on spring resurrection: change the FUEL FILTER right away!

-SEAL OFF engine/exhaust from outside moisture by:
1) remove aircleaner assy and lay a plastic piece covering the carb mouth (I use a ziplock freezer bag) and replace assy back on (note where all the hoses attach!)
2) zip-tie a similar bag over each EXHAUST PIPE at the muffler.
You want to prevent any moisture in the air migrating up into the exhaust system and engine internals: air = condensation = rust/corrosion.

I'm not a fan of cracking windows so I bought large auto-spec DESSICANT pouches from Griotts Garage to keep interior moisture in check. 2 for $30 and they are re-useable. Trust me, you do NOT want to seal up the car's interior for long periods!!!! So crack the window and pray rodentia/bugs stay out, or seal up and dessicate!

Stu Aull
80GS -just put to bed today!
Alaska

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

after playing with these cars for almost 20 years, i'd skip the oil stabilizer. the chance that it damages some internal o ring out weighs the benefit (which is what? keeps the cam from turning round?)

the IMPORTANT thing, is to change the coolant! the engine is an iron/aluminum sandwich which makes corrosion and electrolysis a big factor. so if it sits it needs fresh coolant. mazda actually recommends 90% coolant for storage.

with the fuel system STU is right on the money. you want the tank full. i've been told to use aviation fuel, as its got a stabilizer in it, its designed to sit for long periods.

it would be nice to change the brake/clutch fluids too.

and over inflate the tires, it'll help keep them from flat spotting

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I would drain the coolent and then put fresh in next spring. Why have the water/anti-freeze sitting in the engine when it can only lead to problems if it's not going to be used.

Brigdh

iTrader: (9)

because unless you do a proper flush, the little bit of coolant that remains in the engine is gonna go bad faster and cause more damage then leaving all the coolant in

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Nothing removing the engine drain plug and compressed air can't fix. It's not the coolent I'd be worried about, it the effect it has on the irons and housings. Antifreeze does nasty stuff to aluminum.

TOFUDRIFTER

thanks for all the help guys!
i agree with avoiding the oil stabilizer, i dont wanna damage the o-rings...
as far as the coolant goes. i've asked around, and i've gotten a lot of different answers.. has anyone actually had problems with their engine from not doing anything? i've been told that as long as its good to 40 below it should be fine.. i would like to drain it completely, but i dont have an air compressor... i guess the next best thing would be to just change it?

Brigdh

iTrader: (9)

the other problem with draining it that I didn't mention before is you can actually get condensation build up

I don't know what KansasCityREPU's personal experiences are, but generally if you are using the right coolant/antifreeze for your engine (something safe for Al, which is in nearly any engine now) and you are changing it fairly regularly (I change mine yearly, but I beat the **** of my 7s racing them) you shouldn't have a problem.

You could get paranoid and change it before and after storing the car, but it should be fine sitting for a few days. I've had cars sit months without problems. I think you'll be fine

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you should change it. if you have problems depends on how old the coolant is and how long the car sits. additionally the anti freeze water mixture dictates the freezing point, it doesn't matter how old the coolant is it'll do that test the same.

if you leave the coolant in there long enough you will start to have problems

TOFUDRIFTER

I know it was just changed a few months ago before i bought the car. i also just tested the coolent, its super clean, and its rated for more than -40F. haha, i have been racing this thing quite a bit and, luckily, havnt had any problems so far XD.
I guess if i have time i'll change it, otherwise i think i should be ok leaving it from what i'm hearing.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

coolant is supposed to be changed every 30,000miles, which is 2 years

TOFUDRIFTER

HAHA awesome, i've only got 68k miles on my FB. i think i'll be more than fine XD

Kentetsu

Proper storage of the car is a very good idea. One of these years I might actually do it.

I usually just end up parking mine at the last minute when the snow is falling, and don't touch it again for 5 months or so. It's never been an issue for me, but my carb is probably going to build up faster than it would if I used a fuel stabilizer.

And I also wanted to comment on the Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. I've been a firm believer in the product for a few years now. Oil Control rings absolutely love this stuff. My last motor was blowing so much smoke it was undriveable. Added a quart of Lucas, and I was able to drive it for another two years/25,000 miles. I use their oil now, and still keep a quart of the addative in my crankcase on all of my cars.

Lucas makes great stuff, and have been doing so for a long time. I have no problem recommending any of their products that I have tried. And I do recommend using it in rotaries to prolong the life of the oil control rings. (steps off soapbox)....




.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

time is the important one. if you had the original coolant in there from 1982, it would be black and chunky.... at best