Simple question about a turbo set up I am thinking about running. I am going to be running a Banzai oil filter pedestal to feed the turbo. I'm not runnig a OMP so can I just remove the block off plate and tap it for my return? This way I dont really have to remove the engine and tap the front cover.

 

If you are using a 13b front cover there is a perfect location just south of the OMP. 8AN with a 1/2" NPT fits nicely.

Either way I highly suggest removing the front cover. If removing the front cover is not an option then you can also weld in a fitting to the oil pan. If you have never removed the front cover just take your time. You want to nake sure that you do not mess up your endplay.

Hope this helps.

 

It's a lot easier to remove the oil pan than the front cover in my opinion.

 

Man Way off. Ok I am running a 12A front cover NO OMP wanna tap the block of plate will this work? Front cover is NOT coming off unless I pull the motor and i really really dont wanna do that. Dont really wanna have to swap oil pans either. I just wanna know can O remove the OMP block off plate tap that and reinstall it with a new gasket will it work ok?

 

Not unless you've removed the OMP gear and shaft from inside the front cover. Even then it's not the greatest idea.

 

^Exactly the OMP gear can only be removed from inside the cover.

Just weld a fitting into the oil pan then. I just did not want to do this because when you drop to the oil pan you are crossing over a lot of sharp edges. When the engine rocks there is more chance of it rubbing. Not to mention it looks a lot cleaner in the front cover.

Another option would be to remove the oil pan and then drill and tap the front cover right on the part where it starts to turn horizontal. By doing it this way (if you were careful) you could aviod getting all the shavings into the pan and ultimatley in the engine.

 

YES THE OMP HAS BEEN COMPLETLY REMOVED DRIVE GEAR AND ALL DURING MY REBUILD LAST YEAR. MAN ITS REALLY SO MUCH EASYER TO REMOVE TEH 2 BOLTS HOLDING THE BLOCKING PLATE ON AND TAPPING IT THEN HAVING TO PULL THE MOTOR WHICH TAPPING THE FRONT COVER OR THE PAN I WOULD NEED TO GET THE MOTOR OUT TO DO THE JOB RIGHT. MY IDEAL IS TAPPING A BLOCK OFF PLATE AND MAYBE ADDING A DRAIN TUBE SINCE THERE IS A GOOD SIZE TUNNEL FOR THE OMP THAT WAS REALL THE ONLY THING i SEE THAT WOULD MAKE IT A NOT SO GREAT IDEAL. PLEASE EXPLAIN IF YOU DONT THINK IT WILL WORK AND WHY. i REALLY KNOW NOTHING ABOUT THIS AND WANT TO UNDERSTAND.

 

Your first 2 posts did not give enough information to answer the question. And this is why we have had the run-around.

A little information for you:

When you remove the OMP drive gear there is probably a substantial enough whole for the "wasted" oil to drain. There are a couple reasons why Revhead said it was not ideal. Common knowledge of fluid dynamics and turbo traits can be applied.

1. The oil drain on a turbo is gravity fed. This means that there is a substantial need for the drain line to be in a vertical position. Since you have been very vague on your setup it is hard to say whether the line will properly drain. The lower you can drop the driver side of the line the better off you are. It is not necessary to be completley vertical but it does help. You do not want oil backing up in the cooling chamber of the turbo. I have a larger frame turbo with a aftermarket manifold that pushes the turbo up and away from the block. This gives me a little more room. Since you have not given me full manifold turbo specs it is hard to answer if the drain line will be vertical enough.

2. If you rebuilt your own car you know what the inside of the front cover looks like. The portion where the gear drive assembly enters is pretty long. This passage way is horizontal. Please refer to reason #1.

Will it work, maybe. It is hard for someone sitting behind a computer screen and getting half if the information that they need to answer a question. If you were to ask me if it were ideal? no. Would I do it? no. Why not spend the extra hour and just pull the pan and drill and tap the lower side of the front cover?

 

THATS WHY I AM ASK THIS QUESTION. I DID NOT KNOW IT WAS A GRAVITEY FEED DRAIN. I FILL SOME OF THE INFO I GAVE IN MY FIRST POST MADE PERFERCT SINCE BUT I GUESS I KNOW WHAT THE HELL I AM TALKING ABOUT AND THAT HELPS. YOU LONG WINDED COMMENTS MAKE NO AND I DO MEAN NO SINCE TO ME. LIKE I SAID I A DUBM WHEN IT COMES TO TURBO AND NOT SHY TO ADMIT IT.

MY IDEAL TO KIND GIVE MORE INFO THAT MIGHT HELP IS TO REMOVE THE OMP BLOCK OFF PLATE TAP IT AND MAYBE ADD A DRAIN TUBE TO GO ON THE INSIDE TO HELP IT DRAIN. FROM WHAT VERY LITTLE I KNOW AND ONCE AGIAN ITS NOT MUCH IT SHOULD WORK I THINK BUT I WANNA HERE FROM SOMEONEWHO KNOWS ALOT MORE ABOUT THIS.

THERE IS TO MUCH TIME AND MONEY TO REMOVE THE ENGINE REMOVE THE FRONT COVER OR OIL PAN. GET NEW GASKETS BE WITH OUT THE CAR FOR A DAY OR MORE.

 

Draining to the pan requires the foamy turbo oil to return below the oil level in the pan. This is poor practice, and goes against the recommendations of all major turbo manufacturers. I'd suggest you schedule the time to be able to do this properly. Read up on the potential thrust washer issue before you get started.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

 

Yea thats why if i do it the hard way I will remove the motor.

 

The front cover is the ideal place to drain,theres a good reason the factory choose that location over the pan.
The front cover can be removed without pulling the engine.Ive even done it without pulling the oilpan.You just have to support the engine from above before you get started.Once the waterpump is gone,its easy to rock and lift the cover free from the front of the engine and the oilpan below.
When I converted from S4 to S5,I did it this way and it went very well.

 

Motor removal is not required. Follow that link for details.