Oil pressure issue.
#26
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I can see the oil pressure dropping off a little from a really bad dowel pin leak, but if you have no other leaks and you aren't blowing large amounts of smoke out the exhaust, then it comes down to the the sender, gauge or the o-ring between the front cover/front iron as the usual culprits. As J9 stated, try a different oil pressure gauge and sender. If the pressure still drops, drop the oil pan, check the gasket on the oil pickup tube and replace both oil pressure regulators. Did you mod the regulators to increase working oil pressure?
#27
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Do they sell them at o-reilys? If so how much is it going to hurt my wallet, which is beaten to death so far lol.
Just to clarify too, Im using 20w-50 oil, 5 quarts of it in the pan since its technically a filter change, viton oil ring inserts have been replaced, all gaskets replaced (including the oil passage from the from cover), fresh rebuild (#3), starts, runs, oil pressure dies, after that, if i tap the gas to pick up some rpms, it dies as if theres no oil to complete the seal of the rotors.
Just to clarify too, Im using 20w-50 oil, 5 quarts of it in the pan since its technically a filter change, viton oil ring inserts have been replaced, all gaskets replaced (including the oil passage from the from cover), fresh rebuild (#3), starts, runs, oil pressure dies, after that, if i tap the gas to pick up some rpms, it dies as if theres no oil to complete the seal of the rotors.
#29
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If the engine is stalling under light pedal, something else is almost certainly the culprit.
Are you absolutely sure that you are observing a for-real oil-pressure loss, and not an ELECTRICAL loss that is stopping your guage, and then your ignition?
#30
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Im fairly sure. Is there any way to tell other than getting an aftermarket oil pressure gauge? I just have a hard time believing that my gauge would be completely accurate and normal and then all of the sudden die off. This also leads me away from an oil pump failure since if it was, it wouldnt have oil pressure ever.
So could this be the oil pressure regulators in the front cover and rear iron? I never took them off or touched them on my rebuilds.
So could this be the oil pressure regulators in the front cover and rear iron? I never took them off or touched them on my rebuilds.
#32
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I'm not an expert on the beehive - - don't have one - - but AFAIK the only way oil pressue could cause an engine to actually STALL is if rotating parts are going unlubricated and seizing - - which is normally not a self-recovering event.
You can check your system voltage using an external voltmeter easily enough; see if system voltage drops off when the oil pressure does. Might tell you something, might not, but it's easy to do.
You can check your system voltage using an external voltmeter easily enough; see if system voltage drops off when the oil pressure does. Might tell you something, might not, but it's easy to do.
#33
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I have the feeling the stalling is unrelated. Probably just because the motor isnt broken in yet and when i was doing that, it was still cold too.
Ill call up my buddy mike with his multimeter and see what happens. Its just such a shame that I can't drive it. I keep seeing FBs on the road, makes me cry a little on the inside =P
Ill call up my buddy mike with his multimeter and see what happens. Its just such a shame that I can't drive it. I keep seeing FBs on the road, makes me cry a little on the inside =P
#34
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Im fairly sure. Is there any way to tell other than getting an aftermarket oil pressure gauge? I just have a hard time believing that my gauge would be completely accurate and normal and then all of the sudden die off. This also leads me away from an oil pump failure since if it was, it wouldnt have oil pressure ever.
So could this be the oil pressure regulators in the front cover and rear iron? I never took them off or touched them on my rebuilds.
So could this be the oil pressure regulators in the front cover and rear iron? I never took them off or touched them on my rebuilds.
#36
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You could maybe save money by using (maybe even renting?) a test-instrument-style guage, rather than something meant for permanent installation.
Something like: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3343.html
Or you could use an adaptor and thread a panel-type guage sender into the original oil sender port temporarily for testing purposes.
Something like: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3343.html
Or you could use an adaptor and thread a panel-type guage sender into the original oil sender port temporarily for testing purposes.
#37
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yeah you're just testing to see where the problem is
#39
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In that case I'd think you'd want to replace your stock guage with a good stock unit, but that's more a matter of choice than need.
It would bug me to have something taking up space on the dash that doesn't work, and something else somewhere else that does what it did. Not to mention having that no-longer-needed stock sender hanging off my engine.
I can't help it, I'm a purist. YMMV, of course.
It would bug me to have something taking up space on the dash that doesn't work, and something else somewhere else that does what it did. Not to mention having that no-longer-needed stock sender hanging off my engine.
I can't help it, I'm a purist. YMMV, of course.
#41
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If the sender is the problem, then replacing the sender will eliminate the problem, yes.
If the problem is elsewhere in the system (the guage itself, or electrical problem elsewhere) changing the sender out will make no difference.
Swapping parts until the problem goes away can work, but it gets expensive unless you get lucky.
If the problem is elsewhere in the system (the guage itself, or electrical problem elsewhere) changing the sender out will make no difference.
Swapping parts until the problem goes away can work, but it gets expensive unless you get lucky.
#42
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Well I ordered the sender. That will at least eliminate that as the culprit. If that doesn't work, I'll have to throw a multimeter on it and hope for the best
#44
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