So as some of you already know i did a rebuild last summer and after the rebuild, i had some oil pressure problems. Thanks to having to go back to college i didnt have a chance to tinker with it any more. Here is what has happened so far:

After the rebuild, the oil pressure gauge (stock in the dash) would read normal oil pressure (30 idle, 60 3k rpm) but as the car would warm up, the oil pressure would stop responding to the revs and die off to zero at which i would promptly shut the engine off. Some of you suggested a bad oil pressure sender so I swapped that out with one ordered from black dragon. Now, the car reads 60psi at all times, and it never backs off or anything, just holds right around 60psi.

Any ideas of what is going on here? I am planning on hooking up a mechanical gauge in the spring once the car is unburied from all the snow but i was wondering what i might be looking at if something is wrong, so any ideas?

 

If you ordered it from black dragon it's definetly an aftermarket sender, not a factory sender.
The aftermarket sender wont move around to much, or in other words, it wont be quite as precise. Where you original should read around 30 at idle and 60 around 4K.
if you're really worried(which is a good thing you are), get a new oil filter and put a remote oil pressure gauge on the top of it and screw it on and see what it reads. That's what i did with my car since i also run an aftermarket sender. But i run a race pressure regulator so mine reads about 30 at idle and 130 and 7K.

-hope that helps. Cris.

 

I have a oil pressure reader from autozone, and it is very accurate, and moves when I slightly tap the throttle even. Aftermarket readers, for me at least, are very accurate. The 60psi, that maybe the gauge broke and is stuck, or your metering pump is messed up possibily. Double chack everything before investing in anything. BTW, are you running a mechanical OMP "oil metering pump", or and electric one?

 

sounds like the o-ring in the front cover is not properly installed.

 

I was afraid of that. Does it seem characteristic that it would hold normal oil pressure until the oils warmed up a bit though? And yes I run the mechanical factory OMP, im planning on pre mixing it soon though.

 

If you omit the front cover o-ring, oil pressure reads zero, don't ask how I know that.

As the oil warms, up oil pressure will tend to go down due to thinning from the temp increase. Since you replaced the sender, I'd be looking at the gauge.

 

well i know the o ring is in there, so you guys dont think theres really anything in the engine that could be wrong other than the o ring then?

 

Tap an after market sender in the rear oil line banjo bolt and find out the true oil pressure, then go from there.

 

Would it be easier to just buy the RB adapter for the oil filter and put the sender on that? Then again does that adapter fit on the beehive? I've never looked into it

 

Per RB, i wont work with oil-to-water cooler tho I havent tried.

On the other hand, I havent tried tapping the 23mm nut for aftermarket oil pressure gage since I always convert to below-rad oil cooler.