Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I have an Autometer electrical oil pressure gauge form my Cosmo swap. I noticed the sender looks very much like the stock sensor (Golden Mushroom). I want both the stock gauge and the Autometer one to work simultaneously.

Is there another place for another sender?

Do I just get a NPT "T" fitting?

Do I just use the stock sender for both gauges?

Do I just use the autometer sender for both gauges?

Anybody know?

I'll post pics of both senders if necessary.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

The banjo bolt is one possiblilty.

My friend's got an '80 end housing with 13B rotor housings and who knows where the rest if the housings came from. Anyway, it's missing its oil sender hole so somebody had added an FB pressure sender to the banjo bolt on the oil line. It worked pretty well with the aftermarket gauge. We recently replaced it with another banjo bolt that I drilled and cut standard guage sender threads into (you know, the tapered kind for brass fittings). He now has a mechanical guage with an oil tube running from the bolt to the gauge, and is it ever animated! I think it reads from 0 to 100PSI which is fine for his engine (usually runs at 80PSI while crusing).

nimrodTT

I've done the same thing before; it's not the best place to get an accurate reading. I would just 'T' the original off.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

^

Redwood

Maybe I'm missing something here, but why not just use the RB adapter plate? I really think this is the easiest way as I'm nearly positive that neither of the senders are compatible with both gauges (otherwise why would they supply a new sender with the gauge?).

Or you could use the search function and find an old post on this subject. I know they're out there because I've started one or two of them.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

My uncle has two oil pressure gauges in his Scoutt II, the stock electrical, and an aftermarket mechanical. He just made a tee, and tee'd off the stock location. He put one sender on one branch, and the tube to the other gauge off the other branch. It works fine .

~T.J.

inittab

Here's a pic of the Racing Beat Oil Filter Bypass Block that Redwood mentioned:

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Sorry Guys, I should have explained further. The engine is a 1995 Cosmo 13B-RE Turbo engine, which is basically a Third Gen engine.

According to Racingbeat, that adapter will not fit on Third Gen engines, that's why I haven't even considered that option, even though I have reccomended it to many other people who are turbocharging their N/A engines.

I am not sure if that means "stock" FD engines in FD bodiesor not though, as this would be the easiest way for me to get what I want.

Can somebody post some pictures of it installed?
Here is my Oil Filter location - (Note the Oil Feed to the Oil Cooler comes out of here, BTW)



And here is the stock GSL-SE Oil Cooler location, Note it doesn't have the little extension "ARM", or the Oil Feeder to the Oil Cooler.



What I am NOT Sure of, is if the Racingbeat adapter has a provision for the Oil Feeder to the Oil Cooler. If it does, then I should be fine.

Anybody have close-up Pics of this installed?

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

I might be a little late on this one:

But heres what Tim told me to do when I 'thought' my rear plate was cracked at the oil sending unit threads.. Heres what he said to do, dunno if it helps:

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Also Alex, he has the oil filter relocation kit and hose a lot cheaper than RB

www.horsepowerinabox.com

Redwood

Hehe, I've started posting that site too. Hopefully they get a lot more hits since I think it's been mentioned about 8 times in the last week.

FD Racer

I have the RB adapter on my 1st gen, there is no provision for the line going to the oil cooler. I can snap some pics if you really want, but I dont think it'll get you very far. On my 3rd gen motor theres a plug at the bottom of the rear housing relatively in the same spot as 1st and 2nd gen's rear oil line hook-up spot, but it faces towards the back. Could that be used posibly?