I am going to replace the oil pan gasket as it is currently leaking. I notice that you need to unhook the idler arm in order to get to it.

I have a 79 SA and mostly all the rubber is shot in the suspensions and steering components. If i want to service the idler arm while I am down there how would I do it? I go to RockAuto and I see pitman arm, but no idler arm is listed. Am I able to replace just the rubber on it? Where wold I find such components.

Anything else I should service while I am down there and have the oil pan off?

I'll be using back an OEM gasket from Mazda and will use a very thin layer of gasket sealer on both top and bottom.

 

They seem to have them on Amazon. They do make rebuild kits, but I wouldn't go that route.

I'd skip the gasket on the oil pan. I used gasket stuff in a tube for oil contact. I put on and let it dry for 3 days before adding oil. It's been dry ever since. Also I learned from someone here that getting a couple studs to use as a guide when putting the pan back on really helps. Made a huge difference from the first time I did the pan.

 

Yes strange that Rockauto doesn't even show the category.

I think the idler arm is the same across all 79-85, but should be confirmed.

Not sure if Moog is still making one, but that would be a good way to go.

As for oil pan, as Cforker says, its best to use just RTV. Permatex "The Right Stuff" is a good way to go. Just spend time to clean and prep both surfaces carefully. And torque the bolts up slowly and evenly, and do not need to get them extremely tight.

I can imagine its a bit of a pain to do from under the car.

 

Mazda never installed an oil pan gasket on the engine originally. They used a Grey RTV type sealer.

Both mating surfaces must be clean and dry before applying gasket sealer. The seer is applied to the pan and not the engine. Install the pan and tighten the bolts evenly and then apply the final torque to each bolt. If you need the torque spec I can provide it. Its not much. Wait 24 hours before adding oil to ensure the sealer has set up and cured properly. The set up time will likely bless than 24 hours but I feel as though its best to be safe as this isn't a job you'll want to do twice.

The idler arm can be found on www.rockauto.com. You'll want the Moog brand as these seem to be the best aftermarket idler arm for our cars. They require a break in period, as you'll notice the steering is a bit stiffer.

 

I used a pan gasket on my last rebuild, no extra gasket maker. As long as the crankcase ventilation system is working, they don't leak!

 

i'm in the minority, i just replace the bushings, they are cheap and it takes like 5 minutes. the Mazda last forever too

 

Can you please send a link to one sold on amazon, I tried to search but didn't get any reliable results.

Based on the FSM that isn't true, and I can source a Mazda made oil pan gasket for my model and year. Let me know you're thoughts or if I am misunderstanding. I'll admit I am not the biggest fan of the idea of "gluing" something up, or scraping "glue" off at a later date.

 

The factory Idler Arm (P/N 8871-32-320A) has been NLA for awhile now. The Moog arm (P/N K9369) is still listed on the Moog site but hasn't been available for over a year. Unless you can run across one somewhere, rebuilding your existing arm with the replacement bushings is your best option. At least its fairly simple. Aren't old cars fun?

 

It looks like neither the moog idler arm or the replacement bushing are now available on Rockauto, darn.

But you can still get the replacement bushing from Atkins:

https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/7...4-32-329B.html

And I agree with J9, even if the moog unit is still available I'd recommend just replacing the bushings, cheap and easy.

 

the Factory always used silicon, even back in the 70's, the gasket is for, well; you. service replacement. up to you which way you want to go, i would suggest its easier (and cheaper) to just use no gasket, but ymmv. for the silicon Mazda specs a Takata SH780M, or the new stuff (0000-77-1217-ES) is a Three Bond TB1217D.

if you use permatex, use the newer formulas, like the right stuff, or the optimum. the old stuff, the blue, orange, red isn't good enough for the oil pan on these cars

 

Thanks for the tip!

Mazdatrix has them too, ~$19 shipped using USPS
https://mazdatrix.com/product/bushin...arm-79-85-all/

 

Bushings! replaced them at ages 7 and 23 years. Takes 5 minutes. Jack up passenger side, open hood, remove carter pin, remove nut, drop pivot out, REPLACE lower BUSHING, align and insert pivot, insert top BUSJING , throw everything back together. Auto Repair shop wanted +$300 labor.

 

yeah its literally one fastener and about 6 minutes of work, no need to even lift the car or anything

 

I think I got the last Moog Idler arm in existence.....and a pitman arm also😎....bought them from a friend that bought two of each a while back ....

 

That was a good purchase for future parts replacement. Like you, I enjoy the thought of having NLA parts around so I can keep my car up and running for as long as I intend to use it, and still have parts to pass onto the next owner to be sure he can keep it running, too.

Hopefully, we're just custodians of these cars we love to drive, until the next generation gets a chance to enjoy them.

 

Hopefully, we're just custodians of these cars we love to drive, until the next generation gets a chance to enjoy them. <---<<<LongDuck

WOW ! you sure are an optimist. I just try to keep mine rolling day to day. And do you really think the next gen will appreciate driving a sportscar?

 

There's always people that will enjoy and respect these cars for what they are. Yes, there's also people that don't, but I believe there's more of the former.

 

Following with great interest! Bit daunted by having to detach /drop some fr suspension bits to pull leaky pan. plan on installing a stainless steel STUD KIT for the pan, that I bought on-line. Plse keep the updates coming!

Stu A
80GS (with original front suspension and pan)
AZ

 

You don't need to drop any front suspension parts to take out the oil pan....

Just loosen the motor mounts a bit and jack it up by the transmission until you get the clearance to pull out the oil pan....

 

I did that the first time, much easier to droop the suspension IMO, especially if you're servicing the idler and pitman arms.

 

I don't like to that because the taking on and off the suspension bits can damage the rubber boots... And it will be worst...

 

I've been working under a car for a few weeks now, cleaning and fixing various things to include a new oil pan gasket. I have the car up on ramps and can confirm that you can remove the pan by dropping the idler arm (2 nuts) then jacking the front end up 10 / 12 inches at the front crossmember, just using the suspension travel (the wheels are still on the ramps) to create enough clearance.

This provides enough room to get the pan past the center link. You still have to finagle (turn) the pan to get it past the oil pickup tube and screen. This doesn't give you any more access to the pan bolts like lifting the engine would. There are a couple at the front corners that are hard to get to. Had to use a wrench instead of a socket. Going to try a 1/4 drive wobble extension for the re-install.

 

I'm sure that view looks familiar to all of us here! Not one that I really look forward to, but we've all been there!

 

The only regret I have from my rebuild was not having a stud kit with the re enforced brace installed.
My oil pan doesn't leak but it is always damp to the touch around the edges. Never had a drop of oil hit the driveway in the 2 years since the rebuild but that stud kit is just good stuff.

All my car needs now is new bushings all around ( the current ones are very hard but not crumbling yet ) new wheel bearings ( nothing wrong with mine but they are reaching their end ) and new tires. My trans also has two tiny leaks but both are O rings . Oh and the long oil cooler line needs replaced just to prevent any surprises.