1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Oil pan gasket?

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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 07:29 PM
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Oil pan gasket?

I have an 84 GSL-SE

I noticed there is a slow oil drip under the motor and the oil pan has oil sludge on it.

My first thought is to replace the oil pan gasket but I went on rockauto to try and order one and it wasn't listed?

My question: Is there even a gasket? Or is the pan just tightened to the motor...
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 07:46 PM
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No dont use a gasket. Instead you use silicone paste (copper high temp or the right stuff works well imho). to ensure that the silicone paste stay, you need to make the pan's face rough by using a coarse grit sandpaper (below 80 grit) and add some dents to using a nail punch or similar.


Btw, just lift the motor for clearance to remove the pan
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 06:57 AM
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From: Bucks County PA
Originally Posted by Siraniko
No dont use a gasket. Instead you use silicone paste (copper high temp or the right stuff works well imho). to ensure that the silicone paste stay, you need to make the pan's face rough by using a coarse grit sandpaper (below 80 grit) and add some dents to using a nail punch or similar.


Btw, just lift the motor for clearance to remove the pan
Great thanks!
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Siraniko
add some dents to using a nail punch or similar.
That is a little aggressive.
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 08:38 PM
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Sorta but the dent is not really big since it is done thru a nail punch. Just an old but reliable way to ensure no oil leak
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 01:35 AM
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Are you talking about using 'form-a-gasket' or some other product? I'm going to be digging into this soon and want to be sure I'm sealing it properly, because I know Mazda has a gasket part# for the oil pan.

Thanks,
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 08:29 AM
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You are correct sir, mazda oil pan gasket is available and it is permatex form a gasket, runs a little over $10 at autozone etc.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Siraniko
You are correct sir, mazda oil pan gasket is available and it is permatex form a gasket, runs a little over $10 at autozone etc.
thats where i got mine.

havent attempted a removal yet. when he said "lift the engine" does he mean remove the engine mount bolts too ? i would assume so but rather ask the stupid question than make a stupid mistake
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 12:27 PM
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Lift the motor at bellhousing, wood block and floor jack and off course remove the front cover bracket. Use a 10mm 1/4" rachet for oil pan bolts and 10mm wrech for oil pick-up tube. While ur at it, modify the ROPR to increase the oil pressure.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 12:28 PM
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I used a pan gasket for my TII swap and it worked well, but RTV would have been easier in the end I think.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Siraniko
Lift the motor at bellhousing, wood block and floor jack and off course remove the front cover bracket. Use a 10mm 1/4" rachet for oil pan bolts and 10mm wrech for oil pick-up tube. While ur at it, modify the ROPR to increase the oil pressure.
Cool thanks, I'll try it this weekend. Have a link for modifying the ROPR?
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 07:10 PM
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I'd rather lift the car and unbolt the idler/pitman arm. It doesn't harm the alignment and you can drop the pan without touching the motor at all. Very easy to do.
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 07:32 PM
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come on..youre making it too easy for him. He needs to figure it on his own lol
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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Don't bother with the Mazda gaskets if you run a baffle plate. They will start to leak from the oil sitting on the top of the baffle. RTV works better and is cheaper.

Last edited by Sgt Fox; Jun 28, 2014 at 04:08 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 04:23 AM
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Bear in mind the pan bolts require VERY little torque to re-install!! If you over tighten you will spin the threads out....

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 7aull
Bear in mind the pan bolts require VERY little torque to re-install!! If you over tighten you will spin the threads out....

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
+1; way too easy to strip the holes in the front cover & rotor housings if you're not careful.
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Sh00bs
Cool thanks, I'll try it this weekend. Have a link for modifying the ROPR?
This.

I have heard people talking about shimming some sort of spring but if there is a write up thread that would be awesome
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