I was just double checking this before I got started. I have all of my front steering/suspension stuff out of the car at the moment. Since my oil pan is leaking (most likely FROM THE MISSING BOLT), I figured I'd put a new gasket in at the least. Can I pull the pan without lifting the motor?

Also, anyone know where I can get a new pan? The current one has one of those Fram drain systems, which concerns me a little bit (aside from being a PITA to drain without the hose assembly). The concern is that usually you don't mess with changing the drain plug until you have already fubared the original threads. The only one I have found was at mazdatrix, and they only have the california version (no sub-zero), which I'm not sure really matters.

Oh yeah, guess I need some of the bolts for the pan too to fill in the missing ones. Haven't been able to find those either (junkyard I'm guessing).

 

You have to lift the motor at least a little bit to let the oil pan clear the pickup tube. But as far as a new oil pan, that one from mazdatrix will work fine. The sub-zero start assist rarely actually works on these older cars. I have yet to see or hear about a working sub-zero system actually, so you'll be fine with that pan. But as far as sealing it back up, use a standard gasket from Mazdatrix, then when you install it use an RTV sealant on both sides of the gasket. Don't be afraid to be liberal with it too. Oil pans are notorious for leaking on any car, and using a little too much sealant won't hurt anything.

 

My sub-zero start assist system works.

I don't think I used a gasket when I rebuilt my 13B. I think I just used some grey Permatex, and I have no leaks. Well, not from the oil pan anyway...I think my OMP is leaking though lol.

Rich

 

About the sure drain... before you buy a new pan simply check to see if your theory is right. I change my plug for one of those on one of my engines just because it was easier to change the oil, not because I striped the threads. May save yourself the cost of the pan.

 

Can't the oil pan be removed by just removing the center link and dropping it straight down?

 

You could but that would involve basically removing all the running gear from the front end (wheels, struts, lower control arms, sway bars, locating links etc) to get the center support to drop.

Its much easier to disconnect the engine mounting plate at the front cover (four bolts) and jack the engine/transmission up an inch or so with a jack under the tranny.

 

I'm a little confused now. Isn't the centerlink just connected to the tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm?

 

I've read that the best method for sealing an oil pan is to "dimple" both surfaces with a sharp center punch to give the sealant something to hang on to. Then just use the proper sealant with no gasket....

 

I am a WHOLE bunch confused by some of these post that say a person needs to do all this crazy stuff to replace the pan gasket. I disconnected the steering arm from the chassis on the passengers side so the steering stuff would drop down out of the way, took the pan bolts out & removed the pan. Also I found the same bolts (look like they have a built in washer feature) as the OEM bolts in the metric section at the hardware store. Using the black silicon stuff I installed a gasket, a baffle, a gasket & the pan.

I'm getting a little mature, BUT I don't remember doning any lifting of the motor.

 

Yeah, hoping not to lift the motor. I had read that it is possible to do without, just wanted to confirm.

And yes, except for the steering box, all of the steering/suspension is out of the car.

 

This guy on ebay has em all cleaned up and painted various colors. I bought an 82 flywheel and a door handle and he's was a great guy to deal with.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA...spagenameZWD1V

 

For that guys $54, plus shipping, I can powdercoat an oilpan. Rattle can paint will never hold up on an oilpan.

 

That was this past weekends project... do just as this man states, the two 14mm. bolts take them off lower the steering linkagae and you can manuever the oil pan out, be careful not to damage the pick up tube. Aslo putting it in I bouoght a gasket from mazda and still had slight leakage. so i drained took it off and used gasket sealant anyways. its insurance and will save the extra work from leakage if the gasket itself doesnt work. ( my pan is a little banged up too) but other than that its a breeze. when tightening go from either side and work around the pan. dont just start at one point and tighten them all . hope this helps. G/L!!!