Ok so right off the bat, what happened? my 7 started leeking oil the other night after gunning the accelerator. Shiftlight came on at 6500 to compensate for my heavy foot (cushion before redline). I noticed it's dripping down from where the oil filter is that whole assembly. Any ideas will be appreciated!!

 

dowel pin (o-ring) leak?

 

dowel pin leaks are usually centered around the "mazda 12a" logo on the aluminums, this sounds like a oil filter mount/beehive leak

youve got a beehive havnt you? those are especially prone to leaking. the good news is that its an easy fix.. two nuts and a screw hold the beehive on the block.. just pull em and replace the oring seals.. (even the regular mounts CAN leak, but the beehives are more common due to the higher oil temps)

the ghetto fix is to put "high mileage" oil in the motor.. this stuff actually DOES slow oil leaks, and turned our old "dowel puddle" into a "dowel dribble"

 

does the oil filter tower have 2 o rings under that.. there are 2 nuts below the tower and underneath that are 2 o rings too.. 75 cents and easy fix

 

There are 2 o-rings between the mount and the block and 2 between the mount ant the cooler. Replace all 4 if either is leaking. Check the oil filter too.

 

thanks for the replies. Turns out the hard line that runs from oil filter/beehive on the left side has a hairline crack in it. Any idea how to seal this without having to go get a new hardline????

 

Don't chance it, replace it.

 

or pull it off and weld it..
not JB weld, youre not a farmer, and if you are, you should know better anyways

 

I'm having the same leak. Do you get the o-rings from mazda or will any parts store have em'? Also how hard is it to change them out, is it like an all day thing or does it take like half an hour?

 

I also want to know if any parts stare will have the right o-rings, but i believe it is a half hour sort of thing not all day

 

.

 

i did mine like 2 months ago. maybe it was just me, but it wasnt just an "easy fix." i ended up taking like 4 hours to replace the goddamn o rings... at 6 dollars a piece from mazda. i might have done it in the wrong order tho i suppose as far as cooler - pedestal, but i doubt it.

its a messy pain in the *** at best, be ready to spend some time...

 

I replaced that hard line a while ago in my car... Ended up costing 125 bucks from my local mazda dealership... Also you need to replace the copper washers to ensure that it seals properly... Also removing the nuts from the bottom of the beehive can be a pain in the ***, I have the scars to prove it, some glue on the finger tip helps to put the bolts back into place...

 

i used plumbing seals from my local rona "dealership" because they were flat and the right size... less than 3 bucks for a pack of ten... havnt leaked yet... but i did use RTV sealant on em, cause thats what i trust.

 

Anybody have a write up on how to replace these o-rings on a FD?

 

They are not o-rings, they are metal crush washers. Your question would get abetter response in the 3rd gen section.

 

Take your beehive off and get an earlier style setup.

 

Thanks for all your input I had it replaced for 100 bucks.