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Leaking drivers side rear of motor. Below oil filter. Slow leak, been ignoring it but since I have car up in the air replacing manifold thought I would tackle this one too. Have replaced the oil pedestal O rings but leak continues. To orientate photo from below, brass colored cylinder to right bottom is the starter motor.
Excellent! Will give that a try. Much appreciated.
You need to inspect your coolant line that's drenched . If it shows any sign of damage or deterioration please change it . If it's just dirty clean it as if your infant child had to lick it.
Oil will literally eat through that line and causes a massive coolant leak = bye bye engine .
You need to inspect your coolant line that's drenched . If it shows any sign of damage or deterioration please change it . If it's just dirty clean it as if your infant child had to lick it.
Oil will literally eat through that line and causes a massive coolant leak = bye bye engine .
Ha! I will go ahead and replace that line. I rebuilt the engine last year and it’s been running GREAT so certainly want to take care of it. Appreciate the tip.
Well crap. Looks like previous owner helicoiled the sensor in. Threads are pretty much gone on sensor, and there was a spring like item wrapped around the threaded section of the sensor.
So…..
Option 1. Buy a new sensor and chase the female thread in the iron with a tap.
Option 2. Reinstall using the existing helicoiled setup with high temp thread seal?
If option 1 anyone know the specs for the thread on the oil pressure sensor? I may be able to measure it off the existing sensor, but threads are pretty gone.
Last edited by Slow_sevens; Oct 19, 2023 at 02:47 PM.
So, you have confirmed the iron is stripped as well?
would think the sensor would strip way before the iron. If I the iron looks 1/2 way decent, I would just putt a temp plug in, chase it a little, vacuum the hole, remove plug and put in new sensor.
JB weld sounds like a good idea if the iron is screwed to where it needs drilled etc.
So, you have confirmed the iron is stripped as well?
would think the sensor would strip way before the iron. If I the iron looks 1/2 way decent, I would just putt a temp plug in, chase it a little, vacuum the hole, remove plug and put in new sensor.
JB weld sounds like a good idea if the iron is screwed to where it needs drilled etc.
Was thinking the same thing. Screw in a fitting with the same thread just to tidy things up before threading in the sensor. Got a new one coming from Mazdatrix. Will let you know how it goes.
So have you confirmed if the threads in the iron are intact or not? Hard to tell from the pic, but that "spring like" item may be the actual helicoil. You did say the iron had been helicoiled. I've saw plenty of bolts and fasteners come out with the threads of the hole it was installed in, just like that. However, in this case I would say it is not from the base material.
Cast Iron is soft, when it strips it would crumble and just break up, not come out as a string of material. Helicoils are stainless and will come out like that. Of course, if thats the case, the threads in the cast iron would now be toast.
In that case, even another helical would not repair it since there would not be any remaining material to tap into. The next step insert-wise, would be a premier style insert. These are larger, almost like a bushing instead of wire type helicoils. You drill and tap the base material for the OD thread on the insert. Once installed, these inserts are "staked" in place by driving in two integral stakes on the inserts OD thread, to prevent it from turning. The ID will have the original thread size and pitch. Again, its hard to drill and tap while getting all the debris from getting inside.
So have you confirmed if the threads in the iron are intact or not? Hard to tell from the pic, but that "spring like" item may be the actual helicoil. You did say the iron had been helicoiled. I've saw plenty of bolts and fasteners come out with the threads of the hole it was installed in, just like that. However, in this case I would say it is not from the base material.
Cast Iron is soft, when it strips it would crumble and just break up, not come out as a string of material. Helicoils are stainless and will come out like that. Of course, if thats the case, the threads in the cast iron would now be toast.
In that case, even another helical would not repair it since there would not be any remaining material to tap into. The next step insert-wise, would be a premier style insert. These are larger, almost like a bushing instead of wire type helicoils. You drill and tap the base material for the OD thread on the insert. Once installed, these inserts are "staked" in place by driving in two integral stakes on the inserts OD thread, to prevent it from turning. The ID will have the original thread size and pitch. Again, it’shard to drill and tap while getting all the debris from getting inside.
I had a close look at the spring like object. Does appear to be a manufactured object, rather than thread stripped away from sensor or iron. It’s flat in section, consistent across its entire length, too clean and perfect to be something that broke away from something else.
And to pick your knowledge further. When you say ‘ If that’s the case the threads in the iron would be toast’ do you mean toast if the spring like object was the threads torn out of the iron, or toast because the simple use of a helicoil would have damaged the female threads beyond useability.
Given motor is in car going to abandon any thread chasing or drilling ideas, and if the female threads are shot resort to epoxy.
Last edited by Slow_sevens; Oct 21, 2023 at 07:17 AM.
I'm saying that if the spring like material is the actual heilcoil insert that pulled out of the iron, it took the female threads in the cast iron with it. I suppose its possible that when removing the sensor, it unscrewed the helicoil from the iron along with the sensor. In that case, there would still be sufficient threads in the iron to re insert another helical. I would put the sensor back in the hole and see if there is excessive play between the hole and the sensor. Do you have the helicoil tap or another insert with the installation tool?
Luckily the helicoil unthreaded with the sensor. It stayed wrapped around the female thread as I removed the sensor. Installed a new sensor yesterday without the helicoil. Was a little reluctant to start, but once threads engaged threaded in just fine. No play at all. Before I installed I used some skinny plastic tube duct taped to the shop vac to suck any debris out of the hole, and for install used high temp thread sealant. Letting it sit for 24 hrs to cure and will test later today.
And by the way, letting the car sit for 24 hrs when I have got a new RB header and exhaust installed that I have not yet driven is quite the challenge!
Last edited by Slow_sevens; Oct 21, 2023 at 07:19 AM.
If you do install a new helicoil, the tang will be an issue. Check out time-serts. https://www.timesert.com/
I have a box of assorted helicoils somewhere. Used to run a bicycle shop, and helicoils were used to reinstall pedals if they backed out and stripped the cranks. That was before lawyers got involved and the industry moved to the less risky replacing of entire crank.
But…
So far no need. Just took a test drive with new sensor and no leak.
And…
The Racing Beat exhaust is an absolute joy! I can climb the highway hill to my town at 70 mph in 5th where previously I would need to drop a gear. And the little twisty road near me was a blast. With this little boost in hp and the previously installed McTheory rack and pinion I feel I have me a proper car!
The Racing Beat exhaust is an absolute joy! I can climb the highway hill to my town at 70 mph in 5th where previously I would need to drop a gear. And the little twisty road near me was a blast. With this little boost in hp and the previously installed McTheory rack and pinion I feel I have me a proper car!
Glad you got your leak repaired, you always post the results of your work and I appreciate that. I recall you had a heck of a time with the CA inspection. Will the current setup pass? I ask because I always thought the RB setup "undoes" all of the emissions stuff.
It does seem common here that folks disappear after a few rounds of advice. My wife calls me Mr Brightside… So assume they fixed the problem and simply didn’t report back. Most likely something else grabbed their attention and the car goes on the back burner.
On the CA omissions, the real reason for the RB exhaust was to preserve the new cats that got me through smog but were darned expensive. The idea being to not put any miles on a setup that I knew passed smog, but instead stash the cats, air pump and valve, and reinstall for smog next time it is due. But I gotta admit, the extra power is nice!
It does seem common here that folks disappear after a few rounds of advice. My wife calls me Mr Brightside… So assume they fixed the problem and simply didn’t report back. Most likely something else grabbed their attention and the car goes on the back burner.
On the CA omissions, the real reason for the RB exhaust was to preserve the new cats that got me through smog but were darned expensive. The idea being to not put any miles on a setup that I knew passed smog, but instead stash the cats, air pump and valve, and reinstall for smog next time it is due. But I gotta admit, the extra power is nice!
The emissions system robs your car of ten horsepower . In japan the 79 had 110 HP , Our California cars had 100 hp with it's smog system .
The emissions system robs your car of ten horsepower . In japan the 79 had 110 HP , Our California cars had 100 hp with its smog system .
Has anyone put a 12a RB manifold/exhaust swap with everything else OEM stock on a dyno? Seems a common swap. RB claims 22% increase in power at 7000rpm, but would be cool to see if anyone has verified that.
Has anyone put a 12a RB manifold/exhaust swap with everything else OEM stock on a dyno? Seems a common swap. RB claims 22% increase in power at 7000rpm, but would be cool to see if anyone has verified that.
My car is mostly stock , My nikki is modified ( Larger jets , mechanical secondaries , no emissions "
RB exhaust did increase my upper end horsepower
significantly
