MtotheIKEo

What do I need to do to stop this? Can I pull them off and clean them, then just retighten, or do I need a new o-ring/washer?

85rotarypower

On a stock FMOC, there is one banjo bolt that connects the return line to the back left side of the engine. To fix a leak here, you just need to replace the 2 crush washers.

MtotheIKEo

Cool thanks, can I buy those washers anywhere, or are they a specific fitment?

gonzz

Mazdatrix/dealer

GavinJuice

remember the FMOC's are notorious for leaking aroung that area, so check for cracks when you take your line off.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Hes talking about the banjo bolts that bolt to the block, not the fittings on the cooler that crack that you're talking about.

As someone stated, you can get new crush washers cheap. Grab a couple (you need two per banjo fitting) and slap em in.

~T.J.

GavinJuice

there are banjo bolts on the FMOC, he never specifically stated where the leak is tho.

thekyl

See my leak is on the bottom line where the line corrects to the bango would that be an oring or do I need a new cable?

MtotheIKEo

They are the connections at the block, sorry I thought I mentioned that.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Um, which FMOC? The stock 1st Gen FMOC used a direct screw in fitting which used crush washers, but they werent bajo fittings.

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

If its where the soft line connects into the hard part for the banjo fitting (at the crimp connection), that would be a whole new line.

If you do get the new line, be careful removing it from the cooler itself, as the coolers tend to crack when you try and loosen the fitting because the whole "neck" of the cooler which the fitting is threaded into twists. Just use two wrenches on the fittings as designed (one holds the fitting in the cooler, the other turns the line), and you should be fine.

~T.J.

thekyl

Thanks TJ that is what I was affraid of damn expensive lines

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

they aren't too expensive. you need to be VERY careful when retightening the lines on your oil cooler. they dont need much pressure. hand tight and about an 1/8 of a turn will do it. when you get the fmoc out and get the lines off, inspect the oil cooler's bungs for cracks.

rolfs_7

cracks killed my stock cooler. ofcourse thats mainly cuz the PO hit about a billion animals and it was bent up and back. resulting in cracks at the bungs. i got a 2nd fmoc and had an adapter made for it. so i still have my old lines + a foot or so of 2nd lines.

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

I modified a cheap wrench by grinding the thickness to fit the thread in adapter on the cooler. IIRC its a 21mm.

As for new lines, take your old ones to a hydraulic hose shop and have them replace the rubber parts.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Damn beat me to it. Most places that can make hydraulic fittings can re-tube the stock lines with new rubber. My Dad had his done at a local Napa that makes hydraulic lines for less than half what a new line would cost.

~T.J.

rolfs_7

i had 2 drive 25mins cuz the napa in town claimed they couldnt do it......idiots! so the place i went to didnt have any problem and the guy laughed when he seen the banjo cuz he knew that i was having a hard time getting somthing to work.

MtotheIKEo

At least you only had to drive 25 minutes. I have been out for the last hour and a half looking everywhere for the washers. Ill have to go to a Mazda dealership and hope they have them in stock tomorrow.