Oil leak at banjo bolts for FMOC
What do I need to do to stop this? Can I pull them off and clean them, then just retighten, or do I need a new o-ring/washer?
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On a stock FMOC, there is one banjo bolt that connects the return line to the back left side of the engine. To fix a leak here, you just need to replace the 2 crush washers.
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Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
On a stock FMOC, there is one banjo bolt that connects the return line to the back left side of the engine. To fix a leak here, you just need to replace the 2 crush washers.
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Mazdatrix/dealer
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remember the FMOC's are notorious for leaking aroung that area, so check for cracks when you take your line off.
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Originally Posted by GavinJuice
remember the FMOC's are notorious for leaking aroung that area, so check for cracks when you take your line off.
As someone stated, you can get new crush washers cheap. Grab a couple (you need two per banjo fitting) and slap em in. ~T.J. |
there are banjo bolts on the FMOC, he never specifically stated where the leak is tho.
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See my leak is on the bottom line where the line corrects to the bango would that be an oring or do I need a new cable?
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Originally Posted by GavinJuice
there are banjo bolts on the FMOC, he never specifically stated where the leak is tho.
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Originally Posted by GavinJuice
there are banjo bolts on the FMOC, he never specifically stated where the leak is tho.
~T.J. |
Originally Posted by thekyl
See my leak is on the bottom line where the line corrects to the bango would that be an oring or do I need a new cable?
If you do get the new line, be careful removing it from the cooler itself, as the coolers tend to crack when you try and loosen the fitting because the whole "neck" of the cooler which the fitting is threaded into twists. Just use two wrenches on the fittings as designed (one holds the fitting in the cooler, the other turns the line), and you should be fine. ~T.J. |
Thanks TJ that is what I was affraid of damn expensive lines :(
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they aren't too expensive. you need to be VERY careful when retightening the lines on your oil cooler. they dont need much pressure. hand tight and about an 1/8 of a turn will do it. when you get the fmoc out and get the lines off, inspect the oil cooler's bungs for cracks.
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cracks killed my stock cooler. ofcourse thats mainly cuz the PO hit about a billion animals and it was bent up and back. resulting in cracks at the bungs. i got a 2nd fmoc and had an adapter made for it. so i still have my old lines + a foot or so of 2nd lines.
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I modified a cheap wrench by grinding the thickness to fit the thread in adapter on the cooler. IIRC its a 21mm.
As for new lines, take your old ones to a hydraulic hose shop and have them replace the rubber parts. |
Damn beat me to it. Most places that can make hydraulic fittings can re-tube the stock lines with new rubber. My Dad had his done at a local Napa that makes hydraulic lines for less than half what a new line would cost.
~T.J. |
i had 2 drive 25mins cuz the napa in town claimed they couldnt do it......idiots! so the place i went to didnt have any problem and the guy laughed when he seen the banjo cuz he knew that i was having a hard time getting somthing to work.
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Originally Posted by rolfs_7
i had 2 drive 25mins cuz the napa in town claimed they couldnt do it......idiots! so the place i went to didnt have any problem and the guy laughed when he seen the banjo cuz he knew that i was having a hard time getting somthing to work.
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