Oil leak..
07-29-14, 05:07 PM
#1
Oil leak..
81 GSL
Leaking on the top left front of the front rotor housing... Don't tell me this is the dreaded dowel pin leak..
I haven't spent much time with the rotary yet, so I'm kind of un-familiar with the anatomy. Could this be front cover?
Leaking on the top left front of the front rotor housing... Don't tell me this is the dreaded dowel pin leak..
I haven't spent much time with the rotary yet, so I'm kind of un-familiar with the anatomy. Could this be front cover?
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07-30-14, 09:34 AM
#9
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07-30-14, 04:52 PM
#11
It can be rebuilt for under $500. There are a few threads on here showing step by step pictures and advice. There are a few videos on YouTube with step by step procedure as well. Its a lot easier than you think. Once youve done it you feel like you can take on anything. You will need some tools. Torque wrench, engine hoist, engine stand (optional, but better than a bucket), basic wrenches and sockets, cleaning supplies, 52MM socket with 3/4" breaker bar. clutch alignment tool etc.
Depending on how bad your leak is you can buy a little of this and that while you drive to spread cost (if its your DD).
Depending on how bad your leak is you can buy a little of this and that while you drive to spread cost (if its your DD).
07-30-14, 05:39 PM
#12
Just wondering. If its so easy how come NO mechanics will touch it? I'm afraid I would get in the middle of it and go ooooo siht i messed up. For those of us that are not mechanically inclined its like speaking Greek. I wish I was mechanically inclined believe me. I have read and tried to beat this stuff into my head. All in vain. The way I look at it is this way--the best drivers are not the mechanics or the mechanics would be the drivers. And in my head I'm a hella driver lol. As I pull into the pit
Sent from my iPad using RX7Club. how bout that!
Sent from my iPad using RX7Club. how bout that!
07-30-14, 08:26 PM
#14
Its all part of owning a 30+ year old car. Mechanics wont touch it because its not a 350 Chevy or Honda Civic. Either way the engine in its current state is basically unusable. So my 2 cents is to either source a healthy 12a to swap or force yourself to learn how to rebuild. I just hope its not your only car.
07-31-14, 09:30 AM
#16
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most mechanics work from familiarity, i have seen a bunch of guys who can hear a truck running funny and they know its a vacuum leak between the carb and the manifold, but when the rotary has a vacuum leak between the carb and the intake manifold, they are completely flummoxed.
07-31-14, 12:02 PM
#18
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07-31-14, 02:54 PM
#19
Were just trying to give you the best advice. The only way to truly fix it is to pull it and rebuild it. Also being that new 12a housings are NLA Id hate to see one mucked up while trying to rig a hopeless repair. Trust us, weve all been in your shoes as far as being a rebuild noob. You just have to man up and tear it apart 
07-31-14, 03:06 PM
#20
Were just trying to give you the best advice. The only way to truly fix it is to pull it and rebuild it. Also being that new 12a housings are NLA Id hate to see one mucked up while trying to rig a hopeless repair. Trust us, weve all been in your shoes as far as being a rebuild noob. You just have to man up and tear it apart
Not going to lie you guys are convincing me!
07-31-14, 09:42 PM
#21
A year ago I had puddling from the dowel-pin O-rings. Then oil leaking from unknown sources. Finally an intake manifold gasket soaked and it was drinking coolant.
Choice: fix it or put a FREE sign on it leave it at the curb. With the help I've found here, a Haynes book, the Mazdatrix video, documentation (links here as well), I have the engine totally apart, cleaned and speced. All the replacement parts are on hand, some used and the new ones came UPS today.
I'm far from being a mechanic. But these engines are not that complicated.
Honestly there were days, nights, I thought what the hell am I doing? But it just one step after another and each step is not that difficult.
Take tons of pictures. Document your steps. It can be done.
I even rebuilt my OMP (Oil Metering Pump) in the living room which my son found very amusing.
08-02-14, 04:32 AM
#22
I used a Sta-bil No-Leak additive about 2 yrs ago on my dowel-leaking original 80K mi 12a. Stopped the leak by a good 80%. reduced to a light wet sheen off the top dowel. Run a rag over it every few weeks to keep the motor shiny. Since everyone here is suggesting a rebuild, nothing to lose on a $6-ish bottle.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska