Oil leak..
 

81 GSL

Leaking on the top left front of the front rotor housing... Don't tell me this is the dreaded dowel pin leak..

I haven't spent much time with the rotary yet, so I'm kind of un-familiar with the anatomy. Could this be front cover?

Picture?

Gladly, was actually just going to take one.

Right at the "M"

Darnit.. did some research and figured out... it is.

Will try the interesting dowel pin fix and will report back!

Yeah, I was going to say, where the M is on the housing is exactly where the dowel is... Good luck

One quick question, does anyone know if a 5/64 drill bit would be too big compared to the recommended 1/16?

edit/ Should be fine, found my answer again.. Sorry!

And did any1 ever verfy that that d pin fix actually works??? Please let it be so

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Dont drill a good housing up. Just rebuild it.

yeah its really easy.

care to explain? I really don't have the balls/time/money/resources to rebuild my engine.. yet.. also it has about 160k miles on it...

It can be rebuilt for under $500. There are a few threads on here showing step by step pictures and advice. There are a few videos on YouTube with step by step procedure as well. Its a lot easier than you think. Once youve done it you feel like you can take on anything. You will need some tools. Torque wrench, engine hoist, engine stand (optional, but better than a bucket), basic wrenches and sockets, cleaning supplies, 52MM socket with 3/4" breaker bar. clutch alignment tool etc.

Depending on how bad your leak is you can buy a little of this and that while you drive to spread cost (if its your DD).

Just wondering. If its so easy how come NO mechanics will touch it? I'm afraid I would get in the middle of it and go ooooo siht i messed up. For those of us that are not mechanically inclined its like speaking Greek. I wish I was mechanically inclined believe me. I have read and tried to beat this stuff into my head. All in vain. The way I look at it is this way--the best drivers are not the mechanics or the mechanics would be the drivers. And in my head I'm a hella driver lol. As I pull into the pit

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If I'm going to rebuild it, I will be doing a full rebuild, there's no point in just doing the seals for me, If I'm in there, I'm going all the way.

Its all part of owning a 30+ year old car. Mechanics wont touch it because its not a 350 Chevy or Honda Civic. Either way the engine in its current state is basically unusable. So my 2 cents is to either source a healthy 12a to swap or force yourself to learn how to rebuild. I just hope its not your only car.

Luckily it's not, I knew there would be issues.

I am willing to tear it apart, like I said I just don't have many resources at my disposal.

But I guess patience and lots of reading can do wonders in this situation.

that is why nobody else wants to touch it. its a really simple engine.

most mechanics work from familiarity, i have seen a bunch of guys who can hear a truck running funny and they know its a vacuum leak between the carb and the manifold, but when the rotary has a vacuum leak between the carb and the intake manifold, they are completely flummoxed.

I always make the mistake of thinking that everyone on these forums is a full-time mechanic (i.e. Turbobricks/s10forum.. any forum)

notice the mechanics are the ones telling you to pull it out, put an o ring in it and put it back together...

Were just trying to give you the best advice. The only way to truly fix it is to pull it and rebuild it. Also being that new 12a housings are NLA Id hate to see one mucked up while trying to rig a hopeless repair. Trust us, weve all been in your shoes as far as being a rebuild noob. You just have to man up and tear it apart :D

I didn't mean anything by my comment about the not being full-time mechanics thing, I just meant that (most) of us on here are just enthusiasts and petrol-heads alike.

Not going to lie you guys are convincing me!

Jush,
A year ago I had puddling from the dowel-pin O-rings. Then oil leaking from unknown sources. Finally an intake manifold gasket soaked and it was drinking coolant.

Choice: fix it or put a FREE sign on it leave it at the curb. With the help I've found here, a Haynes book, the Mazdatrix video, documentation (links here as well), I have the engine totally apart, cleaned and speced. All the replacement parts are on hand, some used and the new ones came UPS today.

I'm far from being a mechanic. But these engines are not that complicated.

Honestly there were days, nights, I thought what the hell am I doing? But it just one step after another and each step is not that difficult.

Take tons of pictures. Document your steps. It can be done.

I even rebuilt my OMP (Oil Metering Pump) in the living room which my son found very amusing.

I used a Sta-bil No-Leak additive about 2 yrs ago on my dowel-leaking original 80K mi 12a. Stopped the leak by a good 80%. reduced to a light wet sheen off the top dowel. Run a rag over it every few weeks to keep the motor shiny. Since everyone here is suggesting a rebuild, nothing to lose on a $6-ish bottle.

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

If anything I'll switch to a heavy weight oil, I'm not sure how I feel about additives since most of the time they're either gimmiks or really questionable..

Currently running 10/30. Will switch to something more like 20/50

Best stop leak product???????. C mon fellas-I can't mess this up. Lol

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I think I may just go for a T2 swap instead.. If I'm going to go through all this trouble.