oil cooler line question?
#1
i play with my wankel
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oil cooler line question?
ok heres the deal....my original gsl-se cooler cracked couldnt get it fixed and my buddy sold me a 2nd gen cooler for 20 bucks but no lines or banjo bolts so i finally found some banjos at a junk yard but they were chopped right where the fittings ho into the block were so...heres my question i got a barbed end that can go into the 2nd gen hoses that thread into the 1st gen hoses so if i jam the barb into the hose and double hose clamp it will it hold??? i went all around town 2 places that made hoses but they wouldnt crimp onto the 2nd gen hose saying its not strong enough or somthing..... bottom line is they wouldnt do it no1 would so would it hold???
it sounds risky 2 me but i dont have any other choice im a lil broke right now 2..anything besides a smartass comment would work thx
it sounds risky 2 me but i dont have any other choice im a lil broke right now 2..anything besides a smartass comment would work thx
Last edited by rolfs_7; 07-17-06 at 04:42 PM.
#2
Old Fart Young at Heart
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I find it odd that they wouldn't crimp ferrels for you. The barbed ends will need to be brazed on the metal tubes coming off the banjos, perhaps that is why they said it wouldn't hold. Make sure the hose you use is presuure, temperature and oil rated, they should be able to supply it. 1/2" barbs and hose fit nicely.
#3
i play with my wankel
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sry for not stating that i took those metal ends off...they are stock hoses all hoses are stock that im using i have a 1/2 inch barb now should i see if they can crimp it...its a taperd barb...so i dunno if they will crimp it or not
#4
Old Fart Young at Heart
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If you have not read my write up in the archives on the 2nd gen fmoc install, do so. It covers the line issue. When I went to the hydraulic shop, I took all my hard parts in, carefully explained what I was doing, and let them choose the correct hose, barbs and ferrels. They know what works for the application, I didn't at the time. My total cost from the shop was under 50 bucks, parts and labor, only the lines went to the shop.
If you removed the barbs, you will need new ones brazed on.
If you removed the barbs, you will need new ones brazed on.
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I encountered major issues trying to get a local hydralic shop to assist me in making new hoses for my 2nd gen cooler conversion. To make matters worse, they had just bought out the local competitor. They wanted to cut the original barbs off, and braze on a $25 fitting (X 4 = $100), then use hose that was overkill.
I ended up going into a shop that caters to racers. The guy that owns it, fixed me up without any hesitation. If the local hydralic shop is not giving you what you need, try a speed shop. They will have a workable solution, that is also affordable.
I ended up going into a shop that caters to racers. The guy that owns it, fixed me up without any hesitation. If the local hydralic shop is not giving you what you need, try a speed shop. They will have a workable solution, that is also affordable.
#6
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speed shop where i live....no i cut the old crimp off and still have the old barb..but the metal line was cut up 2 the barb but all i want 2 know is if it will hold or not with hose clamps???? the place that makes hoses in town said that have nothing that will crimp onto it.....also torhoid i have read ur write up a ton of times.. its useful but not when the people are dicks at the store
Last edited by rolfs_7; 07-17-06 at 07:58 PM.
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#9
Old Fart Young at Heart
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Other than a liability factor, I don't understand why they won't perform service. If they use thier own barbs, ferrels and hose, this should be a non-issue. If you are attempting to save coin and use parts that are not compatable with thier's, I can understand thier refusal.
Go back and ask tham what will work and if they are willing to do the work. Tell them the hose will never exceed 125 psi, 300* and needs to oil rated. The #s are the limits of what will ever be seen and most any hydraulic hose greatly exceeds these #s.
This is not an item to cheap out on. If your warning buzzer in non-op, you could easily destroy all 4 main bearings and e-shaft before you notice the low oil light. Don't ask how I know.
Go back and ask tham what will work and if they are willing to do the work. Tell them the hose will never exceed 125 psi, 300* and needs to oil rated. The #s are the limits of what will ever be seen and most any hydraulic hose greatly exceeds these #s.
This is not an item to cheap out on. If your warning buzzer in non-op, you could easily destroy all 4 main bearings and e-shaft before you notice the low oil light. Don't ask how I know.
#10
RX for fun
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This is where I get OC, brake and A/C lines for less than $75. Unlike mazdatrix/racing beat prices, there is no need to change the end fittings and it doesnt crack.
http://hose-man.com/sys-tmpl/hydhos/
http://hose-man.com/sys-tmpl/hydhos/
#11
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I finally go it done....went 30mins to another town and had them crimp a 1/2 inch male fitting and then got a reducer to 3/8 inch fitting which is the old size from the original size...so i got about a foot of extra line..thx for the help guys
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