Keaponlaffen, I know its not oxygen, well, not just oxygen. The nitrogen is just a vehicle for the oxygen. Its not legal to carry pure oxygen on vehicles without DOT licenses and stuff like that. And the oxygen doesn't burn, it promotes combustions, which means it makes things burn that don't normally burn at such low temps, and it accelerates the burning of things that do burn. But you are right, the extra power of the combustion will put more wear on the engine. A turbo puts more wear on the engine all the time. Nitrous only wears the engine when you push the button.

 

well................ it seams danny should think about what he types. someone could take offence to being called a unknowlagable, unexperanced and some one that makes thing up. ***** quote What's really funny is these people who have never used nitrous or even ridden in a car that had it that are downing it. The fact is a nitrous system will not harm your engine. end quote ***** I not only have riden in a number of cars that have had nos in them I have owned a few that have had nos. and yes driven..... yes Nos is is is harmful to your rotary.. and yes in time your rotor face will know the differance.. it stars out unnoticable at first and you can make a lot of runs on small hp shots with out seeing the damages but start tring 100 shots or 150 shots then tear down the engine you will then see the rotor face does know. mperformance you should know better**** quote true danny..so true end quote **** shame I find it hard to belive you have not seen the inside of a nos exploded rotary. why dont you say why you would not install a dry system. why not say why you dont use the 100 shot in your street car. thats the kind of info he is asking for..you install wet systems why not tell the novis why wet instead of dry. maybe tell him why he would need a fire ext. you are a self called expert on NOS why not share your knowlage tell him what it cost to get 50 hp from nos with a 12a carb car include engine prep and nos controller ect ect... you know everything it woud take to keep it safe engine and car, then let him see it is not just the cost of a 500 dollar nos kit ! hence my comment may be should have been; the bang with nos is your wallet. Sudox_E forced hp is building in rpm range. nos is full on the differance is between being push and being thrown things break instantly with nos.

with all this said I am probly still going to do a small cheater shot in mine but I know what I am in for that is the differance. I think the saying gos NOS is not for beginers. NOS is quite expensive to do on a car not preped for it. sorry if I went on the war path, false assumptions tend to do that to me.

 

kuhlrx7

All I said you need to install it properly...I don't want nitrous in mine since I circuit race.

I never called my self an expert you did.

please read what Danny and I said and you will see that both agreed on having a properly installed system.

try not to attack people...jeez... nobody attacked u

 

It adds extra oxygen, thats why you need a fuel shot also or it will be lean. Plus it adds Nitrogen which is a gas that does not expand with heat like oxygen and
it is non-combustable. It makes your effective compression ratio go up. More compression , more fuel=more horses

 

NOS is very tempting but i've used it on the street and it's a lot of hussle. Plus it is very inconsistent, change in temperatures, atmospheric pressures make a difference on the setup. I'm still thinking if i want to use it again.

 

mperformance I was one of the people above downing the use of nos in the context of someone useing it as a best bang for the buck. (a short cut)
the use of nitrous on our rx7s requires a lot of prep work on the car as well as the engine.
danny made a general assumption in his statement. my guess is he knows little of anyone elses knowledge or experance. In his statement (What's really funny is these people who have never used nitrous or even ridden in a car that had it that are downing it.) was an attack on everyone above that does not have his same opinion. some possibly have much more knowledge & experience than he does. sorry it was the assumption part that everyone else that was downing nos was doing it from an inexperienced, unknowledgable viewpoint. do you get my point ? I agree with you . It is a must if you use it to have installed correctly. I read your post of (true danny..so true) to agree with dannys post in its entirity. your statement (I think I should voice my opinion here...I install nitrous kits all the time, from LT1 engines to SR20DE engines.) in itself directly says your an expert. I think if you are suporting nos as a quick fix to low power you need to consider the cost of all the suport mods that need to be done for use of nos. after all If you were installing a turbo you could get one for around 400 but you would not consider the cost of a turbo the cost of the mod. you would include all the suport mods for it ending in a price greater than 1000. why do most nos suporters only consider the price of the nos kit as the cost of the mod? to do it right on a 12a you still have fuel system upgrade, carb mods, exhaust upgrade, pettel switches as system upgrades. now add the safety equipment blanket for the trans, loop for the drive shaft, fire exting, what is going to be done about the rear end ?? all the cost of these kind of items are considered when going with a forced system. man I am starting to rant agin......so anyway sorry if you took my post as a atack. it just tics me off when somebody trys to discount others knowlage when it disagrees with their view point. ... so IMO I as well as everyone else that was saying not to do nos was being attacked. sorry agin if I steped on your foot. just tring to get some one to put out some good info on it instead of what I did earlier by just saying dont do with out realy saing why. I will shut up now try to behave and return to my project.

 

acctually nitrous isnt even a flamable material.....




it oxydises(sp) the gasoline and mixes, then like was posted above, it burns hotter and faster similar to a forced induction combustion

oh by the way im gonna do it to a stock 12a some day just to grenade it
lol

 

How I wish the one guy on this Forum would pipe up....last year, this subject came up and he said his street system was a 100 shot wet NOS system. He said he had it for over a year and had no problems AND it wasn't a beefed up 12A, but a rebuild like most here on the Forum. Nothing special. You don't need a driveshaft loop unless you're running some insane HP shot and have slicks. Your tires are much more likely to go up in smoke than the tranny or the driveshaft and you should be rolling anyway when the throttle switch kicks in the gas. NOS makes a kit for the 12A rotary and it STARTS at 75 HP. If NOS is ready to market something like that, then you know it's safe; they've done the legwork and track experimentation that no one here can afford $$$ or time-wise. They take their rep very seriously and are a name to be trusted. All the blow-up scenarios and destroyed rotor face stories should be considered the just results of an improperly jetted system, poor installation or deathwish high HP shots so you can take that Z-06........

 

Still say exhaust is the best hp mod, and sway bar, at about $70, the best all-round bang-fer-yer-buck mod

 

no prob khulrx7...hey I'm going to be a father!!!! my first!

just found that out!

I'm in a great mood! (eventhough I cracked open my engine and it had one rotor bearing and a stationary bearing failure)!!!!

Ahh sorry for going on a tangent...

 

mar3 I somewhat agree with what you say. here this is from the nos site. ((System Requirements
To supply the carburetor and the Sportsman Fogger System in carbureted applications, use a fuel pump designed to operate between 5 and 10 psi with a flow rate of 0.1 gallons per hour per horsepower at 6 psi. Fuel injected applications will require a fuel pump that flows at least 0.1 gallons per hour at system pressure. For example at 42 psi flowing, a motor that makes 450 hp while the nitrous system is activated will require at least 45 g.p.h. at 42 psi flowing, and going down the track.
Due to the high power levels and cylinder pressures produced by Sportsman Fogger Systems it is highly recommended that you use high quality forged pistons and rods as well as high quality racing ignition system with timing control. If horsepower gain is more than 40% of original, forged pistons are recommended.

NOTE: Manifolds can be sent directly to NOS for custom plumbing at a nominal charge.

Recommended Optional Accessories
Nitrous pressure gauge
Fuel Pressure gauge
Nitrous bottle heater
Progressive nitrous controller
NOS Purge Valve )) I just fell that most nos suporters do not give anuff info. It is not just go down and buy the box and a 1/2 hour latter your rx is turned in to the hulk. there is prep work that cost money to do it right and you know if some of these guys get it on their car they will not be able to keep the **** turned down and if the prep work wasnt done the blow up scenarios and distroyed rotor face stories will be theirs. at that time you hope they did the safty equipment. at least the fire ext

 

mperformance congrats. I have 2. one is have a realy bad time though 10 months old been in the hospital in and out most of the 10 months. this is how I relax though with my rx7.

 

well my perfect system for NOW would include two fuel pressure regulators and two fuel pumps...I can run the carter for normal driving and have an inboard fuel press. gauge with the nitrous fuel system on hand...I would defenetly have a jacobs nitrous mastermind or a boost master to retard timing accordingly and shut nitrous when fuel press. is low.

I would not upgrade ignition but with the money saved I would direct plumb two fogger nozzles (fuel/nos each)into my lakecities mani and have a direct port system. I would have an engine bay fuel press gauge and a bottle nitrous press gauge by the bottle valve. No need for remote openers, another waste of money. It would have to be a microswitch accelerator activated system with a toggle arming switch mounted inside and the microswitch at the throttle linkage in the engine. I would run 1200psi nitrous and about 8 psi on the secondary fuel system.
Purge system optional but if possible added for maximum punch...

Timing would be retarded about 4 degrees or more for lead plug (heat range of plug yet to be kwon prob. B9EVs) and controlled by the jacobs unit. I would shoot about 125-150hp on second and third...

engine would be large streetported, mazda OEM steal apex seals, judge itos NOS clearances for the seals, specially side seals...simple and effective...should put me in the low 13s

that's if I was to do it...nah..circuit racing rules!

BTW I'm going to be a daddy!!! LOL!

 

sounds like it would be a fast set up. posible lower than 13's any idea what that kind of set up would cost? now thats talking about a set up so people who dont know can see its more than a 500dal box

 

lol this is a funny thread!


also very informative.. thanx for the info guys

 

Supposedly there was a truck around town that had a nitrous system installed. Unfortunatly the installer forgot to add the jet, so it was proably close to a 500 shot, when it was only suppose to be a 50 shot. When the poor guy first flipped the switch, it completely blew the intake manifold apart, parts of which then was propelled into the hood. When the guy towed it back to the shop, the center of the hood was about a foot higher than it was suppose to. Honestly the guy was lucky that nothing made it through, and into his face.

With a small shot, and the proper precautions you shouldn't see any major problems. Nitrous, even though it isn't on all the time like a turbo, seems to wear things just as much as one. It wears drivetrain components the most, it seems, likely due to the shock load.

 

Fat boy that happens a lot (at least I have seen that many times)...scary but hardly does any damage to the engine internals...never spray under low rpms also.


Ok here is the deal...

I know I could do that system for about $1500.00 - $2000 so actually it is expensive.
I got all the parts in my shop and for less than that because they were trade ups or stuff I have gotten free from customers that do not need or want...

Here is the list just for the nitrous system I mentioned, assuming u already have the ported rebuilt engine with the Nitrous oxide specs and a nice fuel settup and carb (could be the nikki or holley also):

just put the costs next to it

Holley FPR
Holley fuel pump any will do...blue, red, purple orange whatever
Fogger nozzles 2 or 4 depending on your intake
fittings and stainless steel lines for direct plumbing
taps and drill bits...
Any NOS (brand name) kit for 4 cylinder WET (includes microswitch, lines and two solenoids. Try to get the biggest bottle...the small ones work but u will be refilling it too often.
If in cold climate a bottle heater.
Bottle press. gauge
Purge system
Jacobs Nitrous mastermind controller
Press. switch to halt system when fuel press. is low
(forget to mention you will need to upgrade ignition it only works with a Capacitive discharge ignition)
Fuel pressure gauge mounted inside the car
Nitrous pressure gauge mounted visible inside car (optional)
Jets lots of jets and they are expensive but the key to a good system.
Timing gun.
2 sets of sparkplugs. One heat range colder than already used. NGK only please!


Also a nice table for jet sizing...there are several links I got so let me see if I post them soon.

this is just an idea on what's involved in a good "kind of" safe system 50% is driver error and not installation.