Kruel13

Howdy guys. I ended up buying the car and have enjoyed it thus far.

The first thing that needs to be done is the vacuum delete of stuff. I was wondering if the write up by Jon is still a good one or one to stay away from.

Nice to be back in a rotary.

Thanks

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Jon's writeup is considered good as a way to sort of gain a handle on what is involved as a newbie to these carbs, but I'd rate his actual step by step procedure at about a C+ or B- but it largely depends on what YOU wish to get out of the carb. Just know that simply stripping a carb and doing a mechanical secondary mod isn't going to give you amazing results like what a properly modified Nikki can provide. But for a beginner, it's worth a read.

Oh and you don't have to break the choke flap rod. Good grief. Just remove the nut from the end and get rid of the flap and screws. Then the rod just pulls out. A buildup of crud on it will need some elbow grease but it can be pulled out without ham-fisting it. See, it's stuff like breaking the rod that Jon mentions that I'm in disagreement with. So please use your best judgement.

It helps to understand what each mod is for, before or while performing it. Don't just do something without knowing why.

And because it bears repeating, DO NOT CHANGE YOUR OEM NEEDLES AND SEATS and DO NOT ADJUST YOUR FLOATS. In other words, DO NOT USE THE AFTERMARKET NEEDLES AND SEATS THAT COME IN ALL REBUILD KITS. THEY ARE ALL MACHINED IMPROPERLY AND THEY ALWAYS FLOOD. IT IS AN INDUSTRY-WIDE PROBLEM AND THERE IS NO FIX FOR IT other than to get brand new OEM needles and seats, which are expensive. I hope that was clear enough.

So, now that you have my attention, what are you looking to do to your Nikki other than a strip job? What are your goals?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

+1 on Jeffs advice. Figure out what you want from the carb before making the changes.

Kruel13

Not looking to gain performance. Just want to get all of the stupid vacuum lines off. This car came with the air pump still on it so that has to come off as well. I also think the previous owner removed and reinstalled the intake incorrectly because their are puddles of antifreeze sitting above the intake on the motor. I'm really mechanically inclined so some of the tips Jon made I didn't like (breaking parts) but other than that as long as you can explain to me what each part is and where it is located I can get off with ease. I also want to get rid of the rats nest as well. Is it required for A/C since this is going to be a fun DD that might turn into a autoX car in the future.

Thanks again boys. OH btw absolutely ZERO rust on this car. It had a professional undercoating that has stood up well.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You probably have leaking orings on the intake, thats a common symptom of anitfreeze sitting
in the areas you described.

Rats nest is not needed for AC to stay working.

Kruel13

awesome thanks. I guess I will need some freeze plugs and some red RTV to seal the those plugs off.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

ACV port.

Kruel13

Well the insurance company won't let me insure it at my parents place. The reason this is important is because here in Nashville a car has to be tested for emissions and this car certainly won't pass it. So for the time being I am going to throw the RB intake and Dellorto carb that I have sitting in my apartment on the car and see how it fairs for AXing. If anyone has RB headers laying around I would be willing to pick them up from you for a decent price.