slayerx7

iTrader: (4)

I almost hate to ask but Ive searched.. and searched.. and searched..

I did find several excellent threads on the topic, but while I have my Nikki apart Im hoping to follow a definitive pictorial guide or write up. Is there one already thats just very well hidden? ..or shall I have to post one assuming all goes well? It'd be awesome to not worry about the sometimes conflicting information.

I've dissembled it so far according to - http://foxed.ca/rx-7/Carb%20Stripping%20Draft%201.pdf - which was done so well Im left yearning for the "go-fast mods / reassemble without any fat" part.

Based on other threads Ill state that the operative word here is style Im not at all expecting to 100% replicate a Sterling or Yaw Nikki. If I can get an awesome running 150 flywheel hp (with header/exhaust of course) = mission accomplished. Besides, what a great resource to refer if several years pass before picking up yet another 12a car which might happen to be stock.

Thanks in advance

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Check out the link in my sig for Fat Nikki. Sounds like what you are looking for maybe.

slayerx7

iTrader: (4)

Hi. That is indeed one of the excellent threads to which I was referring. Very informative, but sadly, I'll have to admit some mental retardation in this department. A couple quick questions though:

For the mechanical secondaries, it appears you went with the bent rod method, is there advantage over the trim, bend, and drill a hole in the arm way?

As far as I can discern you opted to run 12v to the vent solenoid rather than remove & seal it off, was this for the sake of ease & same effect?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

The bent arm method is just so easy and its reversable. Works great.

This carb was off an 83 and the vent solenoid is very hard to remove, so its easier to
just wire up the 12v and let it do its job. Earlier carbs you can remove it if you want.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I found I needed to get rid of the solenoid on my carbs for boost prepping. I tried it with them still hooked up and intact, but there is just a tiny 1mm or less air gap for the boost signal to squeeze through and it was causing some issues so I decided to grind on the nylon valve until it was destroyed enough to remove. Then the shaft comes out easily. This is on 83-85 carbs with the difficult to remove fitting so I left it in and just threaded the solenoid back on. The wire was left disconnected. I thought about cutting the wire off, but there could be a carb in the future that has a damaged wire or a failed solenoid winding so it's like a parts storage sort of thing right now. It's not in the way of anything.

Does that help?

slayerx7

iTrader: (4)

Looks like my reply yesterday didn't take, but that definitely helps for understanding, thank you! Good to know for the highly unlikely but would-be-quite-fortunate event of coming across a 12a turbo kit.
Perhaps ironic, I rebuilt my REW motor and that seemed more straight forward start to finish than this Nikki carb. I have got everything trimmed and cleaned so far, hopefully start reassembling tomorrow.

I've seen reference to shimming the AP. Would you know off hand if this is what they mean by double gasketing the diaphragm?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I put three gaskets on each side of it and some longer screws with the exact same thread. Also stretched the spring the recommended amount. This one time I stretched one too far. It was never the same. I ruined it.

There is a thread by Sterling from over ten years ago that has the info he posted about how to mod the accel pump (AP as he anoyingly calls it). I've also found that my .045" drill bit is the better choice for drilling the accel pump banjo bolt holes. Sterling recommends a .050" but I feel that is WAY TOO BIG, even on a boost prepped Nikki. Heck my .045" bit causes the wideband to show 10.0 or there abouts every time I tap the pedal. That's a lot of fuel! You can see two very thick streams. Nikki doesn't have a prostate problem.

slayerx7

iTrader: (4)

Haha, I'm starting to think you're cruising around in a somesortofboosted 12a Years ago I had a Holley + SDJ header straight piped with only one muffler. On that, I attempted mech secondaries. Even with the accelerator pump's perhaps severe incontinence, it still suffered from a lean bog. Easing into throttle was just fine though and what a blast to drive. So, I'm already accustomed to controlling secondaries with my foot so...

As far as I can discern in regards to the accelerator pump spring, is the recommended stretch amount just proportional to (the extra) gasket thickness? I wouldn't think adding tension beneficial, especially to much

Have any experience with the check ***** & weights being stuck in the carb? At first I was glad they didn't just freefall out and probably need more vacuum / pressure than one would expect to operate. I'm starting to second guess though..
It was running pretty good recently so I'm inclined to go with it as such.
Same with the accel pump, I can always tinker with it in car if need be. I saw a post someone left it alone and had no problems, so i think 1 gasket on each side a good starting point for my purposes.

I'm excited to see how this setup will compare to my old one!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, it's some sort of boosted something.

Did your holley have a screw in the secondary linkage? My friend did that to a vacuum secondary RB holley in his REPU and it had a bog until the secondaries would flow, and then it got crazy. Nearly enough to break them loose in gear on dry road.

Sterling gives out the recommended length to stretch it to. I've done several but can't recall the length. I only screwed up one of them but had a spare so I was good.

Yes, the ***** can get stuck with gum and varnish if a carb sits with old gas in it. Even new gas can sometimes make things stick, but starting the engine is usually enough to get them unstuck.

Are you going to boost it? These Nikkis work really well for boost with a few specific mods which I figured out all of last year. Took like 8 or 9 months of off and on testing and even giving up a couple times, only to return with a new idea to try. It worked out in the end and I'm freely sharing the info because I want to see more boost prepped nikkis on the forum.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Jeff when you drilled the accelerator pump banjo bolt to 0.045" did you do any enlarging to the nozzles in the little cast accelerator pump manifold block? Just curious what size you used on those if any.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yes, I also used the .045" bit on the cast nozzle. I didn't drill it at first, and had a somewhat "small feeling" accel pump on my 13B.

The way I did it was after I found that Sterling recommended .050" for the nozzle, I tried the only small drill bit I had, which was the .045" and noticed a big increase in the size of the stream. I realized Sterling's recommended size would have been way too big for a stock ported NA 12A if .045" is plenty for a 74 ported 13B with a turbo.

But as usual a standard disclaimer is required: it worked for me. Your mile may(will) vary.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I didn't drill my nozzle so the stream is strong but last a long time. Seems to work ok for my
stock port 12A.

slayerx7

iTrader: (4)

Might I ask what sort of something that is?
Nope, wasn't a screw. It was a ziptie lol. Mine would chirp the tires going into 2nd, but that's about as crazy as itd get aside from 1st. Id imagine a 1st gen has a little more weight over the rear though..

In the carb crap.. of 2002 post, where he suggests 3 gaskets per side, he says stretch the spring 1/4" too. I believe that also implies the gasket thickness. I don't suppose that sounds like the recommendation you're referencing?

That is awesome of you. My intentions for this car is just to be a fun n/a commuter, so I'm not planning on it. However, if a very reasonably priced supercharger or 12a turbo kit came along Ill admit I couldn't resist. Wouldn't be the first time something like that has happened haha

Thanks for all the info so far btw.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Look at any of my recent boost repping threads to see what I'm running.

Ah yes, the so called 2nd gear scoot was as much as my friend could ever do in his REPU too. But one time he claimed it broke loose in gear on dry road. Since then, that's been one of my goals, not necessarily in my REPU, but in anything.

Yep, follow Sterling's advice for stretching the spring if you add as many gaskets as he suggested. Makes sense, right?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Mine gets some scratch when I punch into those secondaries on a roll in 1st or 2nd gear.

Its awesome sauce for sure! Puts a huge smile on my face every fricking time!